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Thread: Stromberg 97 2 bbl carbs
          
   
   

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  1. #1
    danfowler's Avatar
    danfowler is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Stromberg 97 2 bbl carbs

     



    I'm going to build a 1955 Dodge Ram, 270 CID hemi engine for my '51 Stude. I've found where I can buy an Offy 3 deuce intake manifold for the 270 hemi. I'm now looking for Stromberg 97 carbs. I spent just about all last weekend on Ebay bidding and following on Strombergs, some of questionable heritage. These things go like hot cakes and none of them are rebuilt, not that that means anything since they're about the simplest carb on the face of the planet to rebuild. The thing that gets me is the cost - about $200 a copy. And there's no guarentee what you're gonna get for your hard earned dough.

    Is this reasonable or am I being tight with my money? Does anyone have any experience buying carbs on Ebay, particularly Stromberg 97's? Is there a better source?

    Thanks!
    Dan

  2. #2
    HWORRELL's Avatar
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    Ya might wanna look at this place..
    www.vintagespeed.com

  3. #3
    Mike P's Avatar
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    .......You know, I'd have to have an absolutely overwhelming reason to use these carbs on anything......

    I totally agree with tech as far as using the Strombergs, besides the cost and not knowing if it's going to be buildable until you have it there also the question of CFM. If memory serves correctly the Strombergs only flow about 100-110 CFM per carb.

    An even cheaper solution than tech's is to build adaptor plates to run small base 2GC Rochesters. There usually dirt cheap at swap meets and the kits are more than reasonable.

  4. #4
    suedeplymouth's Avatar
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    Ive always liked the 97, I grew up using them, never having to buy them, just occasionally rebuild one. Now ill have to pay upwards of 100 bucks just for a decnt looking one, after rebuilding and new larger jets the price is almost 150 bucks!
    "its better to rule in hell, than serve in heaven."

  5. #5
    chevy 37's Avatar
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    Have to go along with Mike and Richard. Used 97's on flatheads and CSB and had nothing but trouble with them. The cfm on the 97's were only 155 and I use to take the tops of the stromberg 48's to give me more cfm as they flowed better. I always had leaking problems and if you do use them as you say they are fairly easy to rebuild. Be sure to replace the thin gaskets with modern hightech gaskets from any auto shop. I use rochester 2G on my tri power set ups and they work much better than the 97's although they are not much cheaper. Alot of cores out there for both carbs but be sure the 97's haven't been beaten to death by someone trying to "adjust" the float valve.
    Keep smiling, it only hurts when you think it does!

  6. #6
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    Chevy 37, the reason your strombergs were leaking is because you obviously blew the seals. The 97 can only take 3psi of fuel pressure, you need to run a regulator and if youre running multiple carbs you NEED to run a fuel pressure regulator at each carb to maintain the no more than 3psi required.
    "its better to rule in hell, than serve in heaven."

  7. #7
    chevy 37's Avatar
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    Suedeplymouth I ran my 97's with a regulator that ran no more than 2 1/2 PSI since both the 94 and 97 were meant to run at that. A flattie stock fuel pump will put out 3 3/4 psi so It wasn't the regulator that made them leak. The trouble I had with them is that the float would have to be adjusted to 1/4-5/16 or the carbs would leak gas. I didn't obviously blow the seals on any of my carbs!
    Keep smiling, it only hurts when you think it does!

  8. #8
    DHOTROD's Avatar
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    CHECK THIS PLACE OUT, DAN

     



    Hi Dan, check out this place. if you find some 97's or even some 94's. This place is where you want to go. They do some amazing work, and prices are good. they do all carbs and really know their stuff. you can also call them and ask them for prices on carbs in stock. www.carb-x.com/home.htm Hope this helps....Den

  9. #9
    builder2 is offline Registered User Visit my Photo Gallery
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    I've played with the Holley 94s and have had good luck with them. There's a site called webrodder.com that has some good artilces on them and the rochesters.
    The 97's are getting hard to find and many are in pretty rough shape. They require a couple of special tools to build that can be hard to find. They were used as OEM only on early flatheads them later were aftermarket replacements, sold for about 10 bucks a pop so lots of rodders bought them.
    There are supposed to be some new ones coming from England, but nobody's got them. They look great but I'm told they will run over $500 each by the time they are in production. Used 97's will cost you around $400-450 each to get decent carbs. 94's can be had for a little less and are generally a better carb.
    I've tried Vintage Speed as have several others and we've ALL had nightmares with the guy. Crappy work and it takes forever to get anything back. None of us have ever been able to make a set work right from him and I ended up sending mine out to Jere Jobe to get them fixed. Wrong parts, not cleaned right, not set up right. Hate to bad-mouth but this guy is really BAD.

  10. #10
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    I'm with Mike. I'd run some 2G and 2gc Rochesters and spend the rest of the money on other parts. 97's are prone to leakage at any fuel pressure. They weren't that great of a carb new, doubt if they are much better now. The big decision comes down to do you want to "look good" or do you want to "run good"??????????
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  11. #11
    Matt167's Avatar
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    steve langdon has new carbs for sale that are 2bbl, and over on inliners.org, a lot of the guys like them, there not a holley 2bbl, I think there his very own carb, and there price is right at just $65 bucks a peice they use a standard 2bbl flange and he sells the converters to go from a 2 bolt but you would need to convert that to a 3 bolt. I'v wondered about using the 1bbl Holleys that Ford used on the small 6's, there still available from holley remanufactured and some have automatic choke ( the 1 on mine has a factory Holley remanufactured sticker, and has an auto choke, works fine except the needle valve sticks because the car sat, carb&choke cleaner should clear that up )
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