Exhaust leak on manifold

I don't know if this is the right section but I have a pretty big exhaust leak from my manifold. I know for a fact its only the one manifold and its every inlet to the manifold

I know the old gaskets didn't come off all the way because the were corroded and baked on to the point that even using a heavy file on the faces to get the most of the old gaskets off then a mill file to smooth it out.

Even then they still didn't come off all the way. It still leaks but is a lot better than previously. Is there any tricks to temporarily seal up inlets so that I can actually run the engine until I completely redo my exhaust this winter next summer?

Find someone with a belt sander long enough to get all 3 ports at same time. take off very little but keep it all flat

run double gaskets ..

I didn't realize i put up the before pictures the old gaskets smoothed silver but didn't go completely flat. I used to have a big belt sander at my parents place but they sold it. I will attempt to double up some gaskets and see if it can get that to work. I am running on a super tight budget lately.

I have had some success in "honing/milling/flattening" metal surfaces using the procedure in this video below. I know that it's not an exhaust manifold but I think you can see the principle that I am talking about. It's basically just gluing the proper grit abrasive to a flat board and using it across "all" surfaces. The hardest part will be keeping the manifold in place while you do this. Good Luck
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HyKN52HD6RU

i can try to make that work thanks for that!

or turn the radio up louder ... HA !

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Originally Posted by MelloYello

I have had some success in "honing/milling/flattening" metal surfaces using the procedure in this video below. I know that it's not an exhaust manifold but I think you can see the principle that I am talking about. It's basically just gluing the proper grit abrasive to a flat board and using it across "all" surfaces. The hardest part will be keeping the manifold in place while you do this. Good Luck
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HyKN52HD6RU

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Works great, been doin' that for years. Get your precision straightedge from Goodson....
GOODSON : 24" Precision Straight Edge : PSE-24

Also, particle board is flat, plywood is not.

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Originally Posted by HOSS429

or turn the radio up louder ... HA !

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No radio or electronics in my truck other than the heater and instruments. I don't want to crack porcelain or damage the engine to badly just to last long enough to build a new performance engine

I did not watch the u tube except the first few seconds to see where he was going with it----------AND, I need to comment here as anyone could see that probably 99% of those over there were so called haters----------


Todays aluminum over head CAMSHAFT heads cannot just be resurfaced to flatten them because then you will have a camshaft bore that is out of alignment-----they are put in ovens and heated with various supports,etc that will cause them to come back to a flat state-----


And a far as exhaust manifolds to cylinder head---------------this is one of those BASIC mechanic things that has to be done right---maybe good enough doesn't work----------

The heads are good it's just the manifold that's screwed up. I've got another manifold I can use it is very similar and a lot cleaner, but I don't know if it will cause it to breathe differently.

The casting numbers are 3932469 (the bad one) and 3932473 (the good one). the only big difference I can find is the bottom of the good manifold has a block which would push my down pipe about an inch or two down further.

I'll have supporting pictures later tonight.

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Originally Posted by Lefcrak

The heads are good it's just the manifold that's screwed up. I've got another manifold I can use it is very similar and a lot cleaner, but I don't know if it will cause it to breathe differently. The casting numbers are 3932469 (the bad one) and 3932473 (the good one). the only big difference I can find is the bottom of the good manifold has a block which would push my down pipe about an inch or two down further. I'll have supporting pictures later tonight.

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The video was not necessarily only about re-surfacing a cylinder head, it was a tutorial showing how to re-surface and level parts at home for cheap. When I replied, I did not mean that I have done heads like this, I haven't. But I have used this procedure for leveling other parts in my home garage and it works great. If you tightened your manifold up in a vise and used the procedure shown, you would end up with a perfectly good manifold that would hold gaskets very well. Make your board long enough to be able to stroke the entire length of the 4 ports. I further understand that you probably don't want to buy a precision straightedge, I just included that for the other members of this forum so that they would have a source for it. If you use particle board and cut a band of paper that is normally used on a powered belt sander, you can make this tool for cheap. Here, for instance, is a belt 4" wide by 21 3/4" in length for 3 bucks. Cut it, lay it down on the particle board and use Gorilla glue to secure it.
http://www.mscdirect.com/product/det...gle-PLA+-+Test

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You should install a trash can in your shop to throw the gaskets in clean both head and manifold surfaces good and bolt it back together metal to metal chevys don't use gaskets don't know why the put those in gasket set the just cause problems .......ted

techinspector1 I will definitely get one just so I have the correct tools for my future shop. Ted my shop consists of a driveway exposed to the elements.

the manifolds share a lot of properties but are slightly different from each other.

That 1"+ long piece of metal where the pipe clamps up is called a heat riser, should have a valve inside, unless someone had already removed the plate.

You can ditch it and use shorter studs if you don't need that length. It was used to force the exhaust up and across the lower intake manifold to help warm it.

I don’t mean to offend anybody, and maybe I missed something reading this but I wonder if you guys aren’t way over thinking this and missed the obvious.

“….I know the old gaskets didn't come off all the way because the were corroded and baked on to the point that even using a heavy file on the faces to get the most of the old gaskets off then a mill file to smooth it out….”

ALL the old gasket material MUST be removed from both the manifold and the head for the manifold to seal. From the looks of the picture of the manifold I would almost bet there is (was) material still left on the head. Cleaning the manifold can be a PIA and the head even worse, but if there is any old gasket left on either you can do this 100 times and it will still leak. You can pretty well tell where it was leaking by the carbon trails on the gaskets, and that’s where you need to spend some more time cleaning.


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Not meaning to hi-jack or change the subject but are those what some call "Ram's Head Manifolds"?
meller

Actually I've heard and call them "rams horn" manifolds. There were a few different designs; the early ones dumped straight down, some have molded in brackets, and they came in 2", 2 1/4" and 2 1/2" outlet versions.


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X2 on what Mike advised about the need for cleaning. If you don't get it clean there's no way it will seal. Use a GOOD scraper or even a wide old wood chisel that you don't want for woodworking any more, and resist the temptation to dig the surface with the corners in those baked on areas. You want a clean, flat surface for the new gasket to seal against.

I ?think? I meant to say Horns and not Heads - - - thanks, Mike

meller

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Originally Posted by 34_40

That 1"+ long piece of metal where the pipe clamps up is called a heat riser, should have a valve inside, unless someone had already removed the plate.

You can ditch it and use shorter studs if you don't need that length. It was used to force the exhaust up and across the lower intake manifold to help warm it.

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No valve in there it looks like it was corroded out. Its off a truck that hasn't been started since the 80's

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Originally Posted by Lefcrak

No valve in there it looks like it was corroded out. Its off a truck that hasn't been started since the 80's

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Like Mike said, the heat riser should just slide off of the extended studs, and then you'll need to remove the old studs (soak them for a few days in a good penetrating oil, then heat the manifold around the base of the stud and see if they'll come out) and replace them with the shorter version. No need to work with the added length.

No valve in the block looks like it was corroded out. To use shorter studs do you just knock them out from the holes in the top or are they threaded?

sorry changed my mind about the post

this i one of them things i do on a over all rebuild or head work is to mill the ex side of a used heads and ex manfolds . i done many boats as this side of the head can get very bad i seen them to the point were the heads were close to junk from rot .pontaics i mill every head i do if the start looking ruff seems many guys have a very hard time with them sealing as the out side port mainfolds used one bolt .used a shell cutter on the J head mill and use the storm vulcan with the head bench on the machine .like said there nothing like a nice flat surface were no gasket is needed . i use stick it long broad paper used in the body shop i stick it the paper on a dead flat table top i call it lapping done many smaller parts were it would take to much time to set up to cut or grind on one of the machines . a belt /disc mounted sander works but it not easy to hang on to and feed leve the part in to the belt if 1/3 the size of belt it works good. HEY Jerry you going to PRI .me and my crew will be there.. maybe i see you?

whats the date this year?????


seems there are all kinds of ways to mess up things if you don't have proper equipment--------shops without balancers--that don't need balancing-shops without honing machines--it just needs a couple passes with a bottle brush ------without decking machines-------its only 4 thousands out with a feeler guage and my ruler--------etc, etc-----

Jerry take it easy many on the net do not need guys like us that do the job with the right tools . Now i going back to chat with the charming russina women

you can probably get discounts on a few from Ukraine????????????

remember the link the other day to a U tube for using a ruler and feeler guage??????????

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Originally Posted by jerry clayton

you can probably get discounts on a few from Ukraine????????????

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missing vin tag miles rolled back with the door lock punch out with a screw driver . ahh no thanks

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Originally Posted by jerry clayton

remember the link the other day to a U tube for using a ruler and feeler guage??????????

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why yes i may have seen that one. it is right up there with how to degree in your small block chevy cam with a sundial by the moon lit night under funk&wagnalls front porch

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Originally Posted by pat mccarthy

why yes i may have seen that one. it is right up there with how to degree in your small block chevy cam with a sundial by the moon lit night under funk&wagnalls front porch

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Come-on guys,
Everyone knows you need a Dick Tracy watch, compass and a flashlight.

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Originally Posted by 36 sedan

Come-on guys,
Everyone knows you need a Dick Tracy watch, compass and a flashlight.

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well see that.s the deal right there . that only works on AMC hell evey one knows that

DARN-IT! Anybody want to buy a Dick Tracy watch?