Welcome to Club Hot Rod!  The premier site for everything to do with Hot Rod, Customs, Low Riders, Rat Rods, and more. 

  •  » Members from all over the US and the world!
  •  » Help from all over the world for your questions
  •  » Build logs for you and all members
  •  » Blogs
  •  » Image Gallery
  •  » Many thousands of members and hundreds of thousands of posts! 

YES! I want to register an account for free right now!  p.s.: For registered members this ad will NOT show

 

Thread: 350 chevy rebuild question
          
   
   

Reply To Thread
Results 1 to 9 of 9
  1. #1
    jeff81 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Location
    mcminnville
    Posts
    3

    350 chevy rebuild question

     



    I could use some help, I am rebuilding a 97 chevy 350 - have the cam and bearings in, crank and bearings in - pistons in - all turns well until I tighten down to 20 ft lbs on the connecting rod nuts. Then I can not turn the crank over even with a large torque bar on the crank. Bearings are all standard size and were pre lubed with assembly lube

  2. #2
    Dave Severson is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Location
    Madison
    Car Year, Make, Model: '67 Ranchero, '57 Chevy, '82 Camaro,
    Posts
    21,160

    First off, welcome to CHR! Was there any machine work done on the crank, and were the rods resized???? Could be the wrong size bearings, did you measure the crank or rods to see what sizes things are? Are these new parts or the original pieces from the '97 engine?
    Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, Live for Today!
    Carroll Shelby

    Learning must be difficult for those who already know it all!!!!

  3. #3
    techinspector1's Avatar
    techinspector1 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Location
    Zephyrhills, Florida, USA
    Car Year, Make, Model: '32 Henway
    Posts
    12,423

    Is it possible that you got the rod caps mixed up upon disassembly?
    A small block Chevy short block with the pan on but without heads should require about 35 ft/lbs break-away torque and less than that to keep it turning.

    .
    Last edited by techinspector1; 11-28-2013 at 12:46 PM.
    PLANET EARTH, INSANE ASYLUM FOR THE UNIVERSE.

  4. #4
    34_40's Avatar
    34_40 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    New Bedford
    Car Year, Make, Model: 34 Ford 3W Coupe Replica
    Posts
    14,617

    X2, my first thought is a cap (rod or main) got put on backward.. did you (or were they) mark them as they were being taken apart?

  5. #5
    jerry clayton's Avatar
    jerry clayton is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Bartlett
    Posts
    6,831

    So-------I take it that you tightened all the rods with the crank in one place without turning it at all???????????????


    You need to torque one pair at a time, with some feeler guage strips between the rods(to hold side clearance straight---also this verifys that the rods do have proper side clearance)and then turn the crank to the next pair and repeat---------


    We have seen issues where engines have been assembled with assy lube on the mains and rods and the crank was hard to turn, so customers have brought back the engines and we have reverified to them that the clearance s were correct (mike and dial bore gauges), and then have put 3 w 30 on mains and just the weight of a 1/2 inch ratchet would rotate the crank------------


    A further issur that you could be having is reversed location of bearing halves which can cause a binding on the crank radius or another side clearance problem----------


    If this is a rebuid with same crank/rods and no machine work on the main bearing or rods-----it is either a parts misuse or operator malfunction????????????


    Any way welcome to the site and check all of them----------

  6. #6
    jeff81 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Location
    mcminnville
    Posts
    3

    Quote Originally Posted by Dave Severson View Post
    First off, welcome to CHR! Was there any machine work done on the crank, and were the rods resized???? Could be the wrong size bearings, did you measure the crank or rods to see what sizes things are? Are these new parts or the original pieces from the '97 engine?
    Thanks - no machine work done or any resizing. They are new parts for stock block
    I did do some tolerance checks, but probably should go back through them

  7. #7
    jeff81 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Location
    mcminnville
    Posts
    3

    Quote Originally Posted by jerry clayton View Post
    So-------I take it that you tightened all the rods with the crank in one place without turning it at all???????????????


    You need to torque one pair at a time, with some feeler guage strips between the rods(to hold side clearance straight---also this verifys that the rods do have proper side clearance)and then turn the crank to the next pair and repeat---------


    We have seen issues where engines have been assembled with assy lube on the mains and rods and the crank was hard to turn, so customers have brought back the engines and we have reverified to them that the clearance s were correct (mike and dial bore gauges), and then have put 3 w 30 on mains and just the weight of a 1/2 inch ratchet would rotate the crank------------


    A further issur that you could be having is reversed location of bearing halves which can cause a binding on the crank radius or another side clearance problem----------


    If this is a rebuid with same crank/rods and no machine work on the main bearing or rods-----it is either a parts misuse or operator malfunction????????????


    Any way welcome to the site and check all of them----------
    Good points, I was able to move the crank basically in two different positions to get all the nuts. I did not use a feeler guage but I did have the halves all laid out in the positions I took them off. It is possible that I could have mixed 1 or 2 but pretty sure i kept them the same - i will go through again and use a feeler guage

  8. #8
    firebird77clone's Avatar
    firebird77clone is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Hamilton
    Car Year, Make, Model: 69 nomad, 73 charger, 74 vega
    Posts
    3,900

    You may have a nick on the crank. Happened to me on my first build.

    Tighten the caps one-by-one, giving the crank a full turn after each adjustment.

    You'll be able to isolate the trouble.
    .
    Education is expensive. Keep that in mind, and you'll never be terribly upset when a project goes awry.
    EG

  9. #9
    pat mccarthy's Avatar
    pat mccarthy is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    bay city
    Posts
    10,546

    on chevy SBC and BBC other engine to the rod bearing tags on rods go to the outside of oil pan rails. make sure there that way .as the rods has a off set .if pistons or rods hanged the wrong way it will work in a bind
    Last edited by pat mccarthy; 11-29-2013 at 07:23 PM.
    Irish Diplomacy ..the ability to tell someone to go to Hell ,,So that they will look forward to to the trip

Reply To Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
Links monetized by VigLink