Thread: My new baby arrived today

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That area has the thinest surface for the gasket--It is also an area that is most likely to be mis formed in the oil pan--Now add the fact that for stroker clearance it is probably machined away fro rod clearance and that the oil slung off the rotating assy hits right at that spot------------

It isn't the oil gallery thats the problem--that is entirely behind that bolt hole----You will need to remove the pan to check it out but most likely a new gasket will solve it---and get the strps that go under the bolts----they add a lot of support---

Thank you Jerry, I hope that is all that it is. Does make me wonder why Scott Shafiroff doesn't do this for his $11K street engine builds. I have to pull the engine to get the pan off, my cross member doesn't give enough room on a stroked engine to get it off.

Jerry,

A product like this seems to support your advise. Hamburger's Performance Oil Pan Spreader Bar Kits 1188 - SummitRacing.com

Before you do anything like pulling the engine to get the pan off----------------take off the oil filter, spray that area down (up) with brake clean to get the oil off, check the bolt ---If it is bottomed out in the hole it will feel a little different than one that isn't-----------remove the bolt and clean the bolt and hole--measure the dept of the hole, length of bolt, examine end of bolt to see if any signs of being bottomed out in hole, look at pan rail to see if it looks like bolt flange was making good contact---screw bolt back into hole to see if gasket squeeses some, if all appears decently ok, put some "right stuff"(best grade silicon sealer available) on the bolt and screw back into hole---let set overnite(at least 4 hours ) reinstall filter and fire up------

don't use those summit things, get the pan rail thingies used on oem stuff!!!!!!!!!!!and proper length bolts

If you want to make it easier next time, use studs----------

While typing this I got a call from Vinnie who works for Shafiroff and he thinks the oil, after viewing the video, is being flung off the rotating assembly. Since there now is no fear of clogging an oil passage (our first thought of how the oil was coming out under pressure) from using a sealant, he proposed a method of oil residue removal, letting dry, applying a sealant, let dry then torquing the oil pan bolt back in. A "make do" solution, but a lot less work than pulling the engine to remove the pan.

Originally Posted by deckofficer

While typing this I got a call from Vinnie who works for Shafiroff and he thinks the oil, after viewing the video, is being flung off the rotating assembly. Since there now is no fear of clogging an oil passage (our first thought of how the oil was coming out under pressure) from using a sealant, he proposed a method of oil residue removal, letting dry, applying a sealant, let dry then torquing the oil pan bolt back in. A "make do" solution, but a lot less work than pulling the engine to remove the pan.

You say, "...applying a sealant." Where does he suggest this application to be? Just curious, because from my experience that sealant has to be on the gasket surfaces because it's the gasket that's leaking, not the bolt. That is, provided that bolt's not bottoming out like Jerry suggests in Post #49 immediately above your last entry....

I'm not happy with their solution either but they are working with us. If it works for the long haul, then all is good. If it is just a temp cure that fails, then by following their directions it should be on their dime. I know I'm without use of the car, but I can deal with that. I just want this fixed and for the time being, will trust their judgement on how.

Wondering if simply pulling the oil pan bolt that is leaking and put a washer on it (to shorten how far the threads go in, the tighten to torque specs and see if the leak stops or slows down. That would only take a few minutes. Also wondering what type of gasget is on there. For my ford they come in cork or rubber. The rubber ones are a lot easier to work with and don't seem to leak nearly as much. Just a thought.

Originally Posted by deckofficer

I'm not happy with their solution either but they are working with us. If it works for the long haul, then all is good. If it is just a temp cure that fails, then by following their directions it should be on their dime. I know I'm without use of the car, but I can deal with that. I just want this fixed and for the time being, will trust their judgement on how.

I understand your thought process regarding warranty, Bob, but I'm still curious exactly where they are telling you to apply sealant. It does not make sense to me to be

applying a sealant, let dry then torquing the oil pan bolt back in.

If you have a sealant that has cured and then you torque the bolt you're going to break the seal, IMO. Seems to me you're headed for an extended period of not having an operable vehicle. Just my $0.02 and I understand your frustration.

Originally Posted by rspears

I understand your thought process regarding warranty, Bob, but I'm still curious exactly where they are telling you to apply sealant. It does not make sense to me to be If you have a sealant that has cured and then you torque the bolt you're going to break the seal, IMO. Seems to me you're headed for an extended period of not having an operable vehicle. Just my $0.02 and I understand your frustration.

Dry skin surface only, not the whole glob of sealant. Vinnie told me how he was going to instruct the garage to do it. At this time I feel I don't have much choice than to follow their recommendations, as this work from the shop will be on their dime. It is now a wait and see scenario, and I'm hoping for a good outcome.

Makes sense to let them do it for sure if it's covered by the warrentee.

Your welcome Bob----------

Will I be expecting a check from Scafirof for my time analizing this??????????

Originally Posted by deckofficer

Dry skin surface only, not the whole glob of sealant. Vinnie told me how he was going to instruct the garage to do it. At this time I feel I don't have much choice than to follow their recommendations, as this work from the shop will be on their dime. It is now a wait and see scenario, and I'm hoping for a good outcome.

Originally Posted by stovens

Makes sense to let them do it for sure if it's covered by the warrentee.

OK, now it's clear that you're not trying to deal with this yourself, but instead that you have a shop doing the work. Nothing at all wrong with that, but it makes a world of difference in the question/answer process here. In my book Jerry gave you a very good step-by-step approach, but if you're having it done in the shop you're a spectator to the process, and Steve's right. You can offer suggestions and comments to the shop, but the decision on approach belongs to the shop. Best of luck, and hope you get your vehicle back quickly with a reliable repair.

Note - I was typing as Jerry was posting.

I'm sorry if I gave the impression that I was wrenching on it, those days are behind me. I brought it up here yesterday because Mike at Shafiroff was saying it wasn't his problem. Now it appears that at least some assistance is being offered up, but regardless I want to stay in the loop and know what is done. I choose an engine builder because they have both the experience, a dyno, and have honed over time what parts work the best. I choose a shop that enjoys working on hot rods, has lifts, and for the small price charged to swap engines, it just the best way for me to go. For 40 years I rolled my own, but now I am in a position to pay for the skilled labor. I'm just a gray bearded hot rodder, choosing what I want done and paying for it. Does this put me in poor standing on the forum? I hope not, because hot rods have been part of my life for a long time, same as flying and sailing. I used to work on my plane and have that work inspected and signed off by an A&P, but don't do that anymore. I do still design and build electric vehicles, but that is only because I can do it better than others.

FLYING???????????? tell us more----------