Thread: 383 400 rwhp build

Tweet

Welcome James (and Elizabeth?) to CHR:

You can certainly make (or come real close) to the horsepower you’re seeking with a stroker motor however; I’m a bit confused with your post and would like to ask a few questions.
1. Have you already bought or are you planning on a Scat 9000 cast crankshaft?
2. Are you referencing “forged” piston with a – 12 cc?
3. Are you buying a Scat rotating assembly that includes .040 over pistons and Scat rods?
4. As to clearances: # 1, 2, 5 and 6 are the ones that can hit. The Scat “I” and “H” rods are manufactured to clear the camshaft. If you are going to use stock GM rods, you need to remove about .050 - .060 from the top of the rod bolt. This is vital (sounds like you may already know this).

I’ve used variations of this combination for a lot of years. It’s proven and should net you well over 450 horsepower and 460 plus foot pounds of torque. As a side note: I’d go with a 2500RPM stall converter.

First and foremost – find a good machine shop where you can talk to the technician who will be doing the work. The prep on your block is critical. The stroker motor can be a screamer if built correctly, but heaven help you if clearances are not correct as the whole thing will come apart and you’ll have one very expensive door stop! Make sure that the technician has built many 383 motors. I know everyone has to learn somewhere – but you don’t want it to be your engine.

That said – have the block cleaned and tested – no need to build a block that has cracks or cannot be squared. Make sure that the machine shop understands that you’ll be building a screamer so you want to have the crank journals align bored. You said a “0” on the deck however; if you have not already cut the block, I’d recommend deck be cut to 9.003” – this is an important measurement!! Have the machine shop install new cam bearings and new brass freeze plugs. Also have the machinist go over the location of all the galley plugs with you so you know where they are and that they have been properly installed. When you get the block back from the machine shop make sure you really scrub that baby down with hot soapy water. I like Dawn dish washing liquid and water straight from the bottom of the water heater. Put the block on the engine stand and dry with compressed air really well. Paint the inside of the engine with Glyptal. Its $50 a quart from Eastwood – buy the brush on and a quart will do the job real nice. Also paint the exterior at this time too. Let everything dry real well – at least 48 hours.

Rotating assemblies are really your choice. I’ve used a lot of Eagle cranks and had good success – some here think they’re junk and will tell you so. If you’re set with Scat, that’s fine too. The nice thing about a kit from a top tier company is that you can get the crank, bearings, rod, bolts (and pistons and rings) in one package that should increase the likelihood of everything fitting nicely together. Again, some will differ – but I have used the kits from Eagle, some from Scat and years ago, from PAW (their “in-house” kit) and had good luck. I still mic everything and check clearances but in a “whole-lotta-builds” I’ve rarely had to return anything. I have had Summit send me replacement bolts for free one time when I had an issue. I find if I ask nicely when I have had issues (again, very few) I usually get good support and service.

Back to build – I’ve used a -7cc flat top and with the above deck height (remember that 9.003” measurement?) and that keeps things in the 10-10.5:1 compression ratio with a .041 head gasket (see below for part number). A -12 piston will certainly lower your compression ratio into the 9’s, but IMO - this could cost you some horsepower. As Gary mentioned, have your machine shop match final hone/size to pistons and press the pistons and rods together – it’s a bit tricky if you’ve not done it a lot and you need a press.

You didn’t mention an oil pan assembly. You can go stock, but need to be mindful of clearances here as well. I like the Milodon 30901 as it holds 7 quarts and fits stroker motors – might need a bit of adjustment with Eagle or Scat rods so be sure and check. Use Milodon 18750 oil pump with the 18314 pickup. Use Milodon 23050 oil pump drive shaft and 41000 one piece gasket. Milodon 81300 is an oil pan stud bolt kit – worth the $20 for ease of assembly.

Top the engine off with the components listed below:
I really do like AFR heads and think they may be good for +/- 25-50 HP – but you seem to want the Dart 127122 heads. I understand the cost (twice as much for the AFR’s – yikes!)
Double roller timing set - Summit is fine
Comp Cams 7972-16 chrome moly 5/16-inch pushrods
Comp Cams 812-16 lifters
Comp Cams 1305-16 Pro Magnum Roller rockers 1.60
I’d go with the Comp Cams 12-250-3 Xtreme Energy hydraulic cam XE284H
Demon 5402010 Mighty Demon 850 Carburetor (I have not yet used one, but like the looks and tech specs of the new Quick Fuel carbs, but they are expensive ($6-700).
Edelbrock 2975 Victor Jr. intake manifold – proven success and available used on eBay
Fel-Pro 1205 intake manifold gasket
Fel-Pro 1003 head gasket
HEI Ignition - stock Chevy is a good unit - pair with a MSD ignition (stay away from Accel anything – I’ve never had good luck with Accell and they’re no cheaper than MSD which has always been good to me.)

You may be able to do some eBay Craig’s list shopping to find some bargains but I agree with others here that $2K for 400HP to the rear wheels is just not realistic. I’d be surprised if you could do this for less than $3-3,500, but hey, I’ve been surprised before!

Good Luck,
Glenn

And every one else for your help. I know to play you gotta pay. But I was hoping for another's input if I may have missed a better option this I may have miss. The build I came up with is around 3800. With out block decked cleaned honed cam bearing and freeze plugs. Just was looking for some one else's input for some help with it. 375-400 rwhp. Is just around what I am looking for. Thanks a lot and If any one else has any other opinions just let me know please. And glen what compression ration would be good for this on premium pump gas?

Originally Posted by jamesnelizabeth

....what compression ration would be good for this on premium pump gas?

James,
Something to consider, "premium" pump gas varies from place to place, so if you're planning on this being a driver any distance from home you might want to dial back the compression to something that supports say 89 octane. Around here there are only a handful of stations that sell premium ethanol free, and they may disappear soon. The octane of the premium ethanol blends varies from 91 to 93, which is a pretty wide range as it affects timing.

I'll butt out now, and let you get the answers you want.

Also glen these are just parts I am planning on purchasing. Dished pistons are forged. Rotating assemble is a complete assembly from damper to flywheel to crank to piston. Supposed to be ready to put into block. Rods I am not sure if try are scat but its I beams and crank is scat 9000 I am guessing is cast. It is all internally balanced. I have carb already. Just snagged today. Brand new as well as a radiator both for 80.00. Carb I get was edelbrock 750 cfm. I have I Chevy 302 I am building currently and may use for this build. Got lucky on this motor. Truck I bought I paid 300 for whole truck. No rust and drive able. Truck when I got home I started running number guy told me it was a 350. But I pulled it and found out it was actually a 283 from 1958 vette. Measured the bore and it was and 4" bore. Ran numbers on crank and came back to a forged 302 crank. Four inch bore 3 inch stroke 302!! Truck has 12 bolt rear end 373's true dual 40 series flowmaster exhaust. Anyways I was very happy. But so far only purchases I have made. Got the 350 four bolt main block and a new engine stand! It had a th350 so I got the th350 monster in a box from monster transmissions. It's rated at 500 hp/torque so you are right. Sorry to sound rude just crappy day. No need to take it out on everyone. Lost a friend last night.