Thread: Newbie help with 383 build.

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Hello everyone I bought a roller 1974 Chevelle to build with my daughter so far we have 1972 builder 4 bolt main came with heads rods crank pistons don't know if we can use anything but block. Also have a Turbo 350 that we will rebuild with heavy duty stock stall and trans go 2 shift kit. Car has 342 gears 1 5/8 headers with 2.5 mandrel bend full exhaust with flowmaster mufflers.

Our goals are 400 to 450 hp and tq budget $2500-3000. Some things we think we want need rotating assembly looking at Scat or Eagle? Heads looking at new Dart shp 200cc with 72cc chambers or Patriot Freedom 195cc 64cc chambers? Pertronix flamethrower HEI?
Cam looking at Howards roller retro fit which one need enough vaccum for brakes also was thinking vaccum secondary carb probably Holley 80508S-R?

What would you build for this price range will be 99% street and mabey once a year to track to see what it will do? Did we miss anything?

Welcome to CHR:

Great to hear that you and your daughter will be doing this project together. You're both lucky!

Here's a combination that should give you 400HP and will be real drivable.

First and foremost – find a good machine shop where you can talk to the technician who will be doing the work. The prep on your block is critical. The 383 can be a screamer if built correctly, but heaven help you if clearances are not correct as the whole thing will come apart and you’ll have one very expensive door stop! Make sure that the technician has built many 383 motors. I know everyone has to learn somewhere – but you don’t want it to be your engine.

That said – have the block cleaned and tested – no need to build a block that has cracks or cannot be squared. Make sure that the machine shop understands that you’ll be building a nice tight 383 so you want to have the crank journals align bored and the decks cut to 9.003”. Have the machine shop install new cam bearings and new brass freeze plugs. Also have the machinist go over the location of all the galley plugs with you so you know where they are and that they have been properly installed.

When you get the block back from the machine shop make sure you really scrub that baby down with hot soapy water. I like Dawn dish washing liquid and water straight from the bottom of the water heater. Put the block on the engine stand and dry with compressed air really well. Paint the inside of the engine with Glyptal. Its $50 a quart from Eastwood – buy the brush on and a quart will do the job real nice. Also paint the exterior at this time too. Let everything dry real well.

Rotating assemblies are really your choice. Eagle makes a kit that includes crank, flexplate, damper, rods, bearings, pistons and rings for about $850. Part number from Summit is ESP-B13005E030. It’s probably fine for your application – uses a -7cc flat top and with the deck height recommended above should keep you in the 10-10.5:1 compression ratio with a .041 head gasket. Have your machinist press the pistons and rods together – it’s a bit tricky if you’ve not done it a lot and you need a press.

Use lots of good assembly lube (I like Red Line – carry over from old two stroke days!). Do not use WD-40 anywhere (it's from the devil and should be used as a cleaner, not a lubricant for anything except squeaky hinges on the outhouse door!) Keep your hands really clean and wipe thing as you go (remember I told you to paint the engine? Lot’s easier to keep nice and clean with fresh paint inside and out!)

Oil pan assembly – Milodon 30901 fits stroker motors – might need a bit of adjustment with Eagle rods. Use Milodon 18750 oil pump with a 18314 pickup. Use Milodon 23050 oil pump drive shaft and 41000 one piece gasket. Milodon 81300 is an oil pan stud bolt kit – worth the $20 for ease of assembly. If nothing else, trust me on the Milodon parts.

Top the engine off with the components listed below:

AFR 1040 195 Street Eliminator heads (my choice - not too crazy about Patriot Freedom - others may have different choices, but these AFR heads are trouble free and perform very well in terms of flow)

Double roller timing set - Summit is fine

Edelbrock 2102 cam and lifter kit (hydraulic flat tappet - break it in right and it will perform very well and save a bunch over a roller retrofit. The 1792 came with flat tappet cam - just make sure to follow manufacturer's break in and usethe correct oil!)

Edelbrock 7104 Performer RPM manifold

Summit 210216 Summit Q-Jet, 750 CFM (Yes, I know it's a Q-jet but it's a great combination with this engine and will pair much better than the Holley with a stock to slightly modified TH350.)

Fel-Pro 1205 intake manifold gasket

Fel-Pro 1003 head gasket

HEI Ignition - stock Chevy is a good unit (save your money here - Pertronix flamethrower will be no noticeable difference over stock) - pair with a MSD ignition

Above all, have fun with your daughter. Lots of laughter and cheeseburgers are mandatory!

Regards,
Glenn

Thank you Glenn.