Welcome to Club Hot Rod!  The premier site for everything to do with Hot Rod, Customs, Low Riders, Rat Rods, and more. 

  •  » Members from all over the US and the world!
  •  » Help from all over the world for your questions
  •  » Build logs for you and all members
  •  » Blogs
  •  » Image Gallery
  •  » Many thousands of members and hundreds of thousands of posts! 

YES! I want to register an account for free right now!  p.s.: For registered members this ad will NOT show

 

Thread: Need help to idle...
          
   
   

Reply To Thread
Results 1 to 11 of 11
  1. #1
    Dsprint2000's Avatar
    Dsprint2000 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Everett
    Car Year, Make, Model: 1936 Ford PU
    Posts
    71

    Need help to idle...

     



    OK..... fired it up. Cannot get it to idle without using the foot. It's a fast idle, but that can be adjusted by the screw under the choke housing. Just need some help to get it to idle by itself so I can work on timing and tuning. I was never good at initial set-up, that was Dad's area - I was the one with the foot on the gas pedal while he adjusted.

    The deets - 1969 302 with a freshly rebuilt Autolite 4100. Stock choke, not manual or electric. Still running the stock distributor. Changed intake from Ford 4-bbl to a Weiand aluminum intake. Eliminated the heat tube from exhaust to choke and eliminated the PVC hose from valve cover to base plate as running breathers now.

    Thanks in advance.....

    David

  2. #2
    glennsexton's Avatar
    glennsexton is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Tigard
    Car Year, Make, Model: 63 Nova SS
    Posts
    2,572

    Sounds like a vacuum leak - get a can of carb cleaner and with the engine running (a friend helps here), spray around the base of the carb and the area where the intake manifold meets the heads. Any change in speed indicates a vacuum leak.

    Also - I think you may want to reconsider the PCV (Positive Crankcase Ventilation) setup. Unless your engine is real tight you'll be making a bit of a mess around where your breathers are located. The atmosphere inside the engine becomes more laden with oil vapor as the engine "ages" and tolerances grow. You need a breather to allow flow into the engine and the PCV then uses vacuum to literally suck that oil laden vapor into the intake stream where it's burned along with the fuel. If you don't use the PCV, make sure the inlet is well sealed

    Good Luck,
    Glenn
    "Where the people fear the government you have tyranny. Where the government fears the people you have liberty." John Basil Barnhil

  3. #3
    Dsprint2000's Avatar
    Dsprint2000 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Everett
    Car Year, Make, Model: 1936 Ford PU
    Posts
    71

    OK.... appears I have vacuum leaks between base plate and intake.

    What carb gasket do y'all use to suck this up? Silicone OK here?

    David

  4. #4
    34_40's Avatar
    34_40 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    New Bedford
    Car Year, Make, Model: 34 Ford 3W Coupe Replica
    Posts
    14,606

    Quote Originally Posted by Dsprint2000 View Post
    OK.... appears I have vacuum leaks between base plate and intake.

    What carb gasket do y'all use to suck this up? Silicone OK here?

    David
    I would use a straight edge and verify that the manifold isn't warped / twisted. You can use a thin film of silicone as long as it's not an oxygen sensing EFI system. Carb motor should be fine. Also - if it's a stock ford thermostatic type choke, you'll need that heat tube or replace it with an electricaly heated unit. Otherwise it'll take forever for the choke to open.

  5. #5
    Dsprint2000's Avatar
    Dsprint2000 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Everett
    Car Year, Make, Model: 1936 Ford PU
    Posts
    71

    Not EFI. Yea, will check intake for warpage when I get the carb off. That would bite - it's a brand new intake....

    Ugh...... on the heat tube, was afraid of that. Unfortunately the old one broke on the way out....another new piece....

    David

  6. #6
    34_40's Avatar
    34_40 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    New Bedford
    Car Year, Make, Model: 34 Ford 3W Coupe Replica
    Posts
    14,606

    Quote Originally Posted by Dsprint2000 View Post
    Not EFI. Yea, will check intake for warpage when I get the carb off. That would bite - it's a brand new intake....

    Ugh...... on the heat tube, was afraid of that. Unfortunately the old one broke on the way out....another new piece....

    David
    If the intake is new, and you followed their instructions for installation and torque of fasteners. it's probably fine. did you use new gaskets when carb was installed?

    Someone use to make a adapter that would fasten to a header or exhaust pipe. If the manifold piece is broken, you can usually drill out the old parts and sleeve in a new tube. Don't forget that this "style" is a "controlled leak" as it pulls filtered air down one tube then through the manifold where it heats the air and then up to the thermostatic spring which coils and uncoils with temperature. If it was mine, I'd go to the parts store and buy the electric conversion and wire it up. My point oh two!

  7. #7
    Dsprint2000's Avatar
    Dsprint2000 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Everett
    Car Year, Make, Model: 1936 Ford PU
    Posts
    71

    Yup.... new gaskets always - never use the ones laying around for 10 years. LOL...

    Tomorrow, I'll pull the carb and get new gaskets and re-install with some silicone for added protection.

    Agreed on the choke - electric one on the shopping list for next payday....

  8. #8
    techinspector1's Avatar
    techinspector1 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Location
    Zephyrhills, Florida, USA
    Car Year, Make, Model: '32 Henway
    Posts
    12,423

    If you get all external vacuum leaks fixed and still have problems, the motor could have a vacuum leak from the crankcase into the head ports from the underside of the port. It may be a little early to see it, but check the spark plugs for oily. That could be oil vapor from the crankcase. If this is the case, I have further instructions for you. Oh, and by the way, TRUST NOBODY. A lot of the parts we are buying these days are being machined offshore. I'm seeing more and more of posts on this and other forums from rodders that are saying so and so doesn't fit or so and so leaks.
    Last edited by techinspector1; 08-24-2010 at 10:27 PM.

  9. #9
    BigTruckDriver is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    TX
    Car Year, Make, Model: hotrod
    Posts
    1,830

    This is a old carb correct , not familiar with Ford, but are you sure its not your throttle shafts? Could need rebushing.
    Friends dont let friends drive fords!

  10. #10
    Dsprint2000's Avatar
    Dsprint2000 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Everett
    Car Year, Make, Model: 1936 Ford PU
    Posts
    71

    This is a fresh rebuild I had done this year - never ran.

    One question - I was reading some other stuff on another forum, am I supposed to be using a thicker gasket between the intake and base plate? I used the 'regular' paper one. I saw mention of using a 3/16 or 1/4" gasket there and then the usual paper between spacer and carb. Or, just stick to plan of using RTV?

    Techinspector - I'll let you know when I get the carb re-installed. May not be till next week as gone this weekend.

    OK.... last question this morning. Can I use the Holley electric choke kit w/o modification? Or do I need to go to Ford?

  11. #11
    Dsprint2000's Avatar
    Dsprint2000 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Everett
    Car Year, Make, Model: 1936 Ford PU
    Posts
    71

    ps...... Thanks all for the help - it is greatly appreciated. I was pretty lost earlier this week. When vacuum was mentioned as the culprit, the light went on. I am so looking forward to driving this rig! Also spotted that full throttle was not being allowed as was misadjusted - HOMADE oughta scream now......

    David

Reply To Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
Links monetized by VigLink