Thread: Valve Lash

Tweet

I have a Federal Mogul camshaft.Valve lift is .480 intake and .480 exhaust. My question is how should I set the valve lash? I have set other valves by running the engine until it is at operating temp.Then I remove the valve covers and loosen the rocker arm until it starts to click then I tighten the valve back down until it stops clicking and turn it 1/2 turn more.I seen some camshaft spec sheet that show the valve lash at 0. I did not get a spec sheet for this cam. Does anyone know what the valve lash should be for this cam.The part number is CS-186R.Any help would be appreciated.

Originally Posted by ED JONES

I have a Federal Mogul camshaft.Valve lift is .480 intake and .480 exhaust. My question is how should I set the valve lash? I have set other valves by running the engine until it is at operating temp.Then I remove the valve covers and loosen the rocker arm until it starts to click then I tighten the valve back down until it stops clicking and turn it 1/2 turn more.I seen some camshaft spec sheet that show the valve lash at 0. I did not get a spec sheet for this cam. Does anyone know what the valve lash should be for this cam.The part number is CS-186R.Any help would be appreciated.

If it is a hyd. cam I do one valve open ,one shut.
I tighten just to I can just barley turn the push rod with my fingers.

Should I stop at 0 lash or turn it an extra 1/2 turn.The engine rebuild manual that I have says to turn it an extra full turn.I know it's messy to adjust with the engine running but I feel like it's more acurate than doing by feel or rolling the pushrod with your fingers.

ED,I agree with that but oil deflectors never worked for me very well.Although that warm up,loosen,and tighten always seemed to eliminate 'fickle' lifters for me,neither have I had problems doing the valve closed,with lifter off the lobe unless there was a 'fickle' lifter in the bunch.But if that is your problem let her run untill she reaches warm/hot and see if it doesn't quieten down.
By the way,,,don't lean on the rachet,let the tightening work,slowly.

The oil reflectors don't work well for me either. I hate to mess up my newly painted engine with oil but I don't fell like the valves are adjusted properly. I know the manual says 0 + 1 turn but I think it is referring to a stock cam.I have tried to look up the cam part # on the web to maybe see if Federal Mogul has any specs on the cam but I can't find any information on it.

Camshaft specs (ain't Google wonderful?)
Chevy 262-400 cid Hydraulic camshaft, 3000-6000 RPM Range, 287 intake/287 exhaust Adv Dur, Duration @.050 230 intake/230 exhaust, Valve Lift .480 intake/.480 exhaust, Lobe C/L 109.


I went through that oil-splashing, engine-greasing, noisy, hot valve setting process until I finally learned my lesson. I don't buy that setting hydraulics hot is any better/more accurate than setting them cold.


Loosen all the rockers and let them sit for a few minutes. Next, make sure the valve you're adjusting is on the base circle. Tighten the nut until there's no up-and-down play in the pushrod. Finally, turn it a half turn to a full turn (I prefere a half turn), and lock it down.


Save the hot setting for solids.

Thanks for all the help and I guess I will leave them alone because that's what I did when the engine was cold.

I use 3/4 turn to be safe.

Anyone for 7/16?

Yep!
Mine bottom out ,bleeding all that nasty lift/duration off at low rpms,untill,the rpms and oil pressure hit about 3000 rpm and then they pump up ,increasing the lift and duration in the upper rpm band where it counts.