Thread: what to do?

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I got my new ( DVAP sent another, free of charge ) head yesterday, and brought it in today. It is not visibly cracked, and in resonably good shape, showed signs of burning a little oil, and running rich, but other than that, seemed in good shape. it did/ does have the replacement type expanding freeze plugs ( the nut you tighten, then the rubber expands holding it in ), when I pulled the 1st out, I got clued in very quickly, that radiator stop leak had been used, it needs to go, it's grey and hard, just like stop leak gets, but, it's very bad, the inside ports are almost fully blocked off from the stuff. what will eat this stuff?

i would think strip it and off to the local engine shop. get it dunked for a few days and it should come out clean as a whisle.
shouldnt cost much at all.

Yup, need a friendly machine shop that will let that thing soak in the hot tank over the weekend..... No amount of hand cleandig or flushing will get that crud out of a head...

it may be hard to find a hot tank dip tank they are almost out lawed be the epa if you can find one that may work a bake and blast is the way to go

yup pyrolytic oven and a blast will get her nice and clean..... i'd magnaflux it too just to be sure you dont have any cracks

hmnmmm. One more reason I like living in the sticks, we still have hot tanks. That big city life must really be tough!!!!!

well i have a jet wash with some ZEP soap but i was going to make a hot dip tank but it is hard to get the good stuff that will move any thing so the bake in blast is the new way to go you can send out for it bay city is not big at all dave but we do have some ford guys

Originally Posted by pat mccarthy

well i have a jet wash with some ZEP soap but i was going to make a hot dip tank but it is hard to get the good stuff that will move any thing so the bake in blast is the new way to go you can send out for it bay city is not big at all dave but we do have some ford guys

Friend of mine still uses a good old fashiond hot tank, works great... Whatcha think about these new ultrasonic small parts cleaners????

them work good i hear you can also wash you dentures with you parts to .i hear they are abit pricey i still may make a tank that i can just get a block in for a good diping i spend much time cleaning parts the stuff that work good in the old tanks is i can not spell is oakite or something like that . i hear the EPA dos not like it or you if you have any and do not dump it in the right way

from what i hear the epa doesn't really like you if you drive a car, even though they fly on private jets and run in caravans of fully loaded suvs.... here in california they're now requiring smog on all diesel vehicles and even diesel equipment.... they're also going to be trying to phase out diesels built before 1996... its a load of crap

All of this pertains to your 51 fleetline. One thing that you may want to do is while you have the head at the machine shop being cleaned go ahead and have them cut the seats out and put in hardened seats so you can run unleaded without an additive and have your valves ground, guides checked and the seals replaced. I saw in on of your other posts that you were going to put an inserted motor in that car if you do it be a 53 and up 235ci more than likley. 1953 was the first year that the inserted engines were built. What I was getting around to was th 235 is longer, I have put these engines in trucks (48-53 chevys) and they are too long and hit the radiator. What you can do is use a 54 water pump I think that it is shorter and I will try to ask my old man which pulley you use and it will all work without having to move the radiator foward which ends up looking real bad before it is over with. I think that you may have to slot the front engine mount to accomidate if you use the original rear end due to the fact that you really cant shorten the drive line being an inclosed drive shaft

Originally Posted by 1mach1

All of this pertains to your 51 fleetline. One thing that you may want to do is while you have the head at the machine shop being cleaned go ahead and have them cut the seats out and put in hardened seats so you can run unleaded without an additive and have your valves ground, guides checked and the seals replaced. I saw in on of your other posts that you were going to put an inserted motor in that car if you do it be a 53 and up 235ci more than likley. 1953 was the first year that the inserted engines were built. What I was getting around to was th 235 is longer, I have put these engines in trucks (48-53 chevys) and they are too long and hit the radiator. What you can do is use a 54 water pump I think that it is shorter and I will try to ask my old man which pulley you use and it will all work without having to move the radiator foward which ends up looking real bad before it is over with. I think that you may have to slot the front engine mount to accomidate if you use the original rear end due to the fact that you really cant shorten the drive line being an inclosed drive shaft

The engine I'm rebuilding, is a Ford 200 I6. Going Turbocharged/ intercooled, the head I got, is a '78 head, with induction hardended seats.

My '51 Chevy arleady has a 235/ Powerglide, it is the original Babbit pounder 235, with 62k, and it runs like a top, but if it ever blows up , I'll swap in a '53-'55 235, as they are visibly the same, as the 216/ babbit 235.

dont think that there was a babbit 235. there was a 210, 216. All the 235's that I have seen were inserted and had a fatter head and the valve cover bolts were around the out side of the valve cover instead of the two studs that went through the cover and had a rubber gromet and washer with a locking nut on top along with chevrolet across the top.