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11-23-2006 07:57 AM #1
machining for teflon valve seals
I'd like to get Teflon valve seals for my 200 I6, because #1 there better than the umbrella seals and won't get hard and crack like mine did and #2 they are required to run the dual springs that classic inlines sells. what is machined to use teflon valve seals? also what is the diffrence between a dual spring, and a single spring?You don't know what you've got til it's gone
Matt's 1951 Chevy Fleetline- Driver
1967 Ford Falcon- Sold
1930's styled hand built ratrod project
1974 Volkswagen Super Beetle Wolfsburg Edition- sold
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11-23-2006 08:01 AM #2
here are the single springs, with dampers, they have a max lift of .700 so they should be good with the cam lift I want and the 1.65 rockers
http://classicinlines.com/proddetail...SC%2D200%2DSTY
and here's the teflon valve seals
http://classicinlines.com/proddetail...SC%2D200%2DTVSYou don't know what you've got til it's gone
Matt's 1951 Chevy Fleetline- Driver
1967 Ford Falcon- Sold
1930's styled hand built ratrod project
1974 Volkswagen Super Beetle Wolfsburg Edition- sold
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11-23-2006 08:07 AM #3
Matt,
The outside of valve stem boss on the head is machined down so that the seal can slip over it.
I don't understand your question about the difference between dual springs and a single spring.Jack
Gone to Texas
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11-23-2006 08:11 AM #4
Not sure where you should look, but you can get Teflon guide cutters and do it yourself.
They're self-limiting and will stop when you get to the right place.
Only other thing you need is a 1/2" drill motor.
I did my own on the 462" Buick engine, didn't take long and no big deal.
You may want to check with an auto machine shop as well.
They don't seem to charge much to cut the head for Teflon seals when they do the valves & seats and perhaps that would be true when cutting for seals only.
The price may be favorable enough that you could have it done and skip buying what could be an expensive tool.C9
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11-23-2006 08:16 AM #5
Originally Posted by C9xYou don't know what you've got til it's gone
Matt's 1951 Chevy Fleetline- Driver
1967 Ford Falcon- Sold
1930's styled hand built ratrod project
1974 Volkswagen Super Beetle Wolfsburg Edition- sold
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11-23-2006 08:33 AM #6
Originally Posted by Henry RifleYou don't know what you've got til it's gone
Matt's 1951 Chevy Fleetline- Driver
1967 Ford Falcon- Sold
1930's styled hand built ratrod project
1974 Volkswagen Super Beetle Wolfsburg Edition- sold
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11-23-2006 09:24 AM #7
where do you buy those?You don't know what you've got til it's gone
Matt's 1951 Chevy Fleetline- Driver
1967 Ford Falcon- Sold
1930's styled hand built ratrod project
1974 Volkswagen Super Beetle Wolfsburg Edition- sold
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11-23-2006 06:50 PM #8
the dual springs are designed to allow higher spring pressure while still allowing large lift..... the only thing is with higher pressure springs you can flatten out the cam easier.... the benefit of higher pressure springs is that they slam the valves shut quicker.... which is especially good if you have a large overlap..... gets the valve shut as quick as it can be allowedjust because your car is faster, doesn't mean i cant outdrive you... give me a curvy mountain road and i'll beat you any day
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11-24-2006 05:48 AM #9
You probably wouldn't run into rpm related harmonics problems with your installation, but you can when running single springs at elevated rpm levels.
Little brother runs a 500 cid DRCE engine in his 8.13 second Henry J drag racer.
Rpms are 6800 at launch and 9200 rpm when shifted. (4-speed Lenco.)
He ran single springs for a while and every run he broke one.
The breakage quit after he went to dual springs.
The inner spring - whether round wire or flat spring stock - act as vibration dampers and keep the main - outer - spring from doing weird things harmonics-wise and self destructing.C9
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11-24-2006 07:06 AM #10
Originally Posted by C9x
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11-24-2006 07:24 AM #11
Originally Posted by erik eriksonKen Thomas
NoT FaDe AwaY and the music didn't die
The simplest road is usually the last one sought
Wild Willie & AA/FA's The greatest show in drag racing
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11-24-2006 07:39 AM #12
Originally Posted by erik erikson
Springs can do weird things when mechanically excited.
A good example may be a Slinky.
Hold it up so it's stretched out fairly well, strike it gently with a screwdriver or metal rod.
Take note of the oscillations produced.
It's especially interesting to press the upper end of the Slinky to your ear, strike it and listen to the jangling noises it makes.
High speed motion pictures have shown valve springs operated at high speeds do some weird things.
No small wonder they break.C9
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11-24-2006 03:37 PM #13
I'm going to have the rev limiter kick at 6k, would the single springs be ok at 6k? the springs come with dampers and high strength valve locks.You don't know what you've got til it's gone
Matt's 1951 Chevy Fleetline- Driver
1967 Ford Falcon- Sold
1930's styled hand built ratrod project
1974 Volkswagen Super Beetle Wolfsburg Edition- sold
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11-24-2006 04:48 PM #14
the singles should work out just fine if your max rpm is 6000.... make sure to definately get quality springs rated at least .020 over your max life.... i like to make sure they're close to my max lift but still just a bit over... you'd be amazed what happens to the valve train at those kind of rpms.... you can get stuck with coil bind or valve floating.... even though floating valves wont leave you stuck on the road unless they float enough to hit each otherjust because your car is faster, doesn't mean i cant outdrive you... give me a curvy mountain road and i'll beat you any day
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11-24-2006 05:01 PM #15
Spring harmonics can do weird things, as can resonant frequencies.
http://www.civeng.carleton.ca/Exhibi...rowsBridge.mpgJack
Gone to Texas
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Welcome to CHR. I think that you need to hook up your vacuum advance. At part throttle when cruising you have less air and fuel in each cylinder, and the air-fuel mixture is not as densely packed...
MSD 8360 distributor vacuum advance