Thread: OiL Filter Magnet

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Your local ranch supply store will supply you with cow magnets (drop in magnets) for about 50 cents each. I don't use them because the ferrous materials have already gone through the pump causing damage and if the filter is doing its job the crap is going no further.
I drop a two"x 1/4" in the pan in front of the pickup on rebuilds and a magnetic drain plug. If the plug has more than just a bit on it I start saving for the next rebuild.

I'm afraid by the time the engine gets to kicking out pieces of metal that are magnetic it's a bit too late for that engine anyway... Kind of like the idiot light that comes on just after the engine runs out of oil and grenades!!!!!

Should make a little light up display tied to the oil pressure light that says. Sorry, we have some disappointing news for you.

About the only time a magnet MIGHT be useful is right after a full rebuild with a bore job or possible a hone to pick up some very small particles left after a full wash out with detergent. But that's why you have a (hopefully) 5 micron oil filter (.000197/in) to pick out all that suspended crud. If it's smaller then that, it isn't going to hurt much.

You DID wash it out with detergent, and you did clean and wire brush all of the oil passages didn't you??

As far as picking up bearing babbit - not with a magnet - tin/lead/antimony with possibly a copper backing adhering to a steel shell. If you get to the steel bearing shell - who cares, the engine is junk by that time and if at a track, oiled and debris it down .

magnets seem to be important on new cars...... when i do oil changes in the shop(which is hardly ever) i always get crap on the magnetic plugs, even on first oil changes...... especially on GM and Toyota cars.... maybe its something to do with how they build them.... but thats my 2 cents

Originally Posted by thesals

magnets seem to be important on new cars...... when i do oil changes in the shop(which is hardly ever) i always get crap on the magnetic plugs, even on first oil changes...... especially on GM and Toyota cars.... maybe its something to do with how they build them.... but thats my 2 cents

That is what my point was - a fresh machining of cast iron + no detergent wash = iron particles on a magnet.

After the 2nd oil change, probably little or nothing adhering to the magnet.

Originally Posted by Irelands child

About the only time a magnet MIGHT be useful is right after a full rebuild with a bore job or possible a hone to pick up some very small particles left after a full wash out with detergent. But that's why you have a (hopefully) 5 micron oil filter (.000197/in) to pick out all that suspended crud. If it's smaller then that, it isn't going to hurt much.

You DID wash it out with detergent, and you did clean and wire brush all of the oil passages didn't you?

When the timing gears turned to dust the oil became permeated with carbide type particles. Starting it would be mechanical suicide. A tear down is in the works. Complete rebuild and detergent wash in progress as suggested. Thanks to everyone who replied.

gonna do anything spicy with the rebuild or just gonna keep it the same?

Originally Posted by thesals

gonna do anything spicy with the rebuild or just gonna keep it the same?

Going with stock and NOS parts that I've been collecting over the years. The engine was supposedly rebuilt about 35k miles ago. I was happy with the mpg and performance before the meltdown.