Thread: 383 stroker

Tweet

well when i say i am broke i really mean i have to job so no money, otherwise i would be happy to go out and build a full assembly, and cam and the works, but don't work like that

Found this 383 thread May as well throw a few bones in for some members to chew

There are a number of ways of building a 383 short block

1 stock 400 crank..... lot of work , 1st machine down main bearings and you are restricted to the 400 short rod which is only 5.565 i Aftrernches long because the crank is balanced to the short rods. Crank is cast iron and it is quite old now

2 Aftermarket cranks, steel, and they are balanced for the longer 5.7 or 6.00 inch rods, due to the heavyer steel they can be internally balanced, so they are stiffer and have less tendency to flex

3 These aftermarket cranks can either be bought as an internal or externally banced option.

4 So when you buy the crank, buy it as a kit so you get the new pistons and new rods with the good ARP bolts, you usually have a choice with either I beam or H beam rods

yes i have used the ohio kit with the 5.7 rods with there cast steel crank not a billet crank or rods but good for some one that is low on coin

Ohio kit ? Must be a new one, I am currently building a 383 based on the Eagle steel crank, H beam rods and the hyperutectic pistons, ported out smog heads and a crane mechanical part no 113841 cam. And the old 671 oin top of corse

PS it really should pull over 400 HP, it is just a fun motor not a dead serious motor

Originally Posted by southerner

Ohio kit ? Must be a new one, I am currently building a 383 based on the Eagle steel crank, H beam rods and the hyperutectic pistons, ported out smog heads and a crane mechanical part no 113841 cam. And the old 671 oin top of corse

PS it really should pull over 400 HP, it is just a fun motor not a dead serious motor

yes if you pull two plug wire you will get that easy ohio crank they sell alot of stuff h beam and I rods and a crank line have used over 12 set of the h beam rods and there new billet I beam looks good and many of there cranks good deal for the money

Yup, those hypers have a 12 cc dish, it is the only way I can get the static compression ratio down far enough when teamed with the 76 cc smoggers and a .039 thick head gasket

i will add this the head of the bolts on the rods may have to be nip on the cam side for more room. or a small base circle can help . on the rods you may want to go to a cap screw rod this may help on the block grinding on the oilpan rails .

Originally Posted by southerner

Yup, those hypers have a 12 cc dish, it is the only way I can get the static compression ratio down far enough when teamed with the 76 cc smoggers and a .039 thick head gasket

you may want to check out the mls cometic you can get them thick.i had some made to.060 thick for a big block

Using the Eagle H Beam rods, the cam is a standard base circle and the rods have a standard 12 point cap screw that threeads directly into the rods. One thing I like about the 383 is you dont have to rev it to make the torque and power. There is enough torque in the low down revs to really pull.

yes the beam rods help on room .i posted that for any one thing about the stock rods. well i am punching out for the night. i have alot of valve jobs to do

I have built one this year using the Eagle Cast Crank ( internal balance ) Eagle Sir rods ( 6" ) and some Mahle Forged Flat tops. The entire rotating assemble with Bearings and rings was delivered to my Door with a race balance for somewhere around $950. The block had to be clearanced to clear almost every rod ( bolts ). the crank shaft counter weight hit the block near the rear bearing. the back side of 2 rods had to be ground ever so slightly to avoid hitting the cam. Total time to clearance was around 2 hours. but it was worth it. Its been a great motor so far. I have built 12 of these 383's so far. The H-beam rods seem to clear the cam with no problem, but they are a little bit bulky and some additional block clearancing needs to be done. Just be careful of those water jackets. I prefer to do all the clearancing before the block goes to the machine shop for boring/ line bore etc. That way the machine shop gets to clean off all your grinding mess!!!