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Thread: Engine running badly,played too hard help!
          
   
   

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  1. #1
    fiftee6's Avatar
    fiftee6 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: '56 210, SBC
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    Oh, and NTFDAY, alomst forgot, I did check pushrods and they appear fine. Would I see the bend with covers removed and running? Or would I have to pull them? My neighbor also thought a lifter wasn't seating all the way. Thanks...
    "I also have a tuner, the reception's not to good, but it works"
    Phil...

  2. #2
    BigTruckDriver is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Quote Originally Posted by fiftee6
    Oh, and NTFDAY, alomst forgot, I did check pushrods and they appear fine. Would I see the bend with covers removed and running? Or would I have to pull them? My neighbor also thought a lifter wasn't seating all the way. Thanks...
    Probably would see a bend until you pull them out and roll them on a flat surface.IMO Timing gear and chain would be the first thing to check out ,and compression test.

    Dave:That reminds me of a problem I had with my engine.Spark was jumping to the wrong cylinder from a bad distributer cap.I spent about 200 dollars on ignition parts until I looked inside the cap and could see where it was jumpin to another cylinder.
    Last edited by BigTruckDriver; 05-11-2006 at 03:13 PM.

  3. #3
    thesals's Avatar
    thesals is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    heres a simple thing to quickly rule out cylinder damage.... goto your local parts store, rent a cylinder leakage tester..... bring each cylinder to TDC one at a time, take plug out, hook up too, fill with compressed air..... it'll fill the cylinder up and let you know if theres seapage, then you start checking for seapage, the main spots are crank case, exhaust pipes, radiator, intake, and neighboring cylinders.... if you hear air leaking at any of those points, you can tell whats bad, crank case is generally rings or possibly head gasket, intake/carb is intake valve, exhaust is exhaust valve, radiator bubbles means headgasket, and neighboring cylinder means your shit out of luck...... if you want to quickly rule out a head gasket you can also use a block tester to check for carbon monoxide in your coolant.... first get a compression tester and test all your cylinders though..... i want to see numbers on each cylinder posted here so we know your not skipping it... if you pass the compression test you can skip block tester and cylinder leakage test...... that does sound like a valve problem to me, pull your pushrods, and put them on a flat surface one by one and roll them while watching very carefully and closely..... that'll rule them out.... once they're ruled then you'll have to put them back and readjust your valves.... but after adjusting the valves.... see how she runs.... it could even be as simple as a rocker getting loose.. i've also had problems with high lift cams and stock rocker setups where the rocker studs start to pull out.... causes a very similar problem.... the only way to fix that is to have all studs removed, have them tapped for screw in studs and upgrade to roller rockers hope some of this info was useful to you and didn't bore you
    just because your car is faster, doesn't mean i cant outdrive you... give me a curvy mountain road and i'll beat you any day

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