Thread: kickdown cable

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spray the carb cleaner when the engine is cold . "the first start up of the day". this is when you most likely will find any vacuume leeks, and less risk of fire. you can use just about any type of spray. even a watter bottle.

by spraying a liquid around the carb and intake if there is a vacuume leek . the liquid will be sucked into the leek and temporary blocking the leek. you will notice a slite to moderate rise in engine rpm and the engine may run smooth for a sec. do this several times and wait between attemps to really make sure you have located the leek.

I used my standard paint program to draw on the pic and uploaded it in a jpeg format. no problem

lt1s10, thanks for the 700R4 page, I really needed that!

Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/teen rodder

Originally posted by Don Shillady
lt1s10, thanks for the 700R4 page, I really needed that!

Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/teen rodder

hang on to that one, you may need it.

OK...I sprayed some carb cleaner around the intake and carb (only a minor fire....just kidd'n).

I didn't notice any changes.

I switched the advance hose to where you suggested, but noticed no difference when I road tested. I also checked the timing with the advance hose plugged and put it at about 10. I road tested again while changing the timing to nearly every conceivable degrees with no change to the bogging down of the engine on flooring the gas pedal at low and high speeds.

Again, at about 40 mph, I floored it and it bogged down severely, but when I downshifted, it took off like a rocket. It just will not pick up speed without downshifting, unless I gradually press the pedal.

Also, from a standstill, I can't even take off when flooring it (no tire spin whatsoever). If I hold the brake and try to spin tires, the engine just bogs down and won't even try to spin them.

How can I test to see if valves are sticking or working properly?

Thanks again.

sound like the trans. is not shifting down when you stop. start off in drive, 5-6 mph then pull it down into low gear, you shouldn't feel a down shift, because it should already be in low gear.

Shifting good.

I know when I'm building up speed, when it reaches third gear it seems like the power drops off, like it doesn't really want to go any faster.

When I am under the hood and revving the engine at the carb, it just seems like everything's perfect and sounds really smooth.

When I'm driving, though, it seems like a totally different engine.

The thing that stumps me is that I've changed out points distributors twice with new ones, then put the HEI in, replaced the carb twice with rebuilt ones from O'reilly's and nothing has changed!

That's why I'm wondering if there may be something internally wrong??

See pictures above.

after you recent post's and knowing you dont have any vac leeks and the dtent cable is hooked up and adjusted . than there is one more thing.

are you running a fan clutch?

if so a bad or wrong fan clutch can cause the very same problems you have stated.

if not then the trans will need some attention by a good repar shop.

for you'r sake I hope you have a bad fan clutch, much cheeper to fix.

[QUOTE]Originally posted by soldout162000
[B]Shifting good.

I know when I'm building up speed, when it reaches third gear it seems like the power drops off, like it doesn't really want to go any faster.

When I am under the hood and revving the engine at the carb, it just seems like everything's perfect and sounds really smooth.

When I'm driving, though, it seems like a totally different engine.

The thing that stumps me is that I've changed out points distributors twice with new ones, then put the HEI in, replaced the carb twice with rebuilt ones from O'reilly's and nothing has changed!

That's why I'm wondering if there may be something internally wrong??

I dont think it's internal engine problems. if it were you would see excess smoke in the exhaust, or a rattle from lifters or valves and possibly have a mis.

if none of these are going on then it must be externally.

Originally posted by fordsfairlane
after you recent post's and knowing you dont have any vac leeks and the dtent cable is hooked up and adjusted . than there is one more thing.

are you running a fan clutch?

if so a bad or wrong fan clutch can cause the very same problems you have stated.

if not then the trans will need some attention by a good repar shop.

for you'r sake I hope you have a bad fan clutch, much cheeper to fix.

he said..." my engine bogs down from standstill and when I step on it at pretty much any speed. I can gradually press the gas and it will pick up pretty good."

fordsfairlane, whats the fan clutch got to do with it?

Your engine bogs when the secondaries come in under load, the secondaries are too lean. On a Q-jet, the secondary air valve is adjustable. There's a coiled spring on the end of the air valve shaft with a locking screw setup. Tighten the spring in stages, your problem will probably go away.

Originally posted by R Pope
Your engine bogs when the secondaries come in under load, the secondaries are too lean. On a Q-jet, the secondary air valve is adjustable. There's a coiled spring on the end of the air valve shaft with a locking screw setup. Tighten the spring in stages,
your problem will probably go away.

Pope is right, I thought I read it was a Elderbrock. if it is a Q-JET then you need to be sure the secondarys are adj. properly. check this thread out.

http://www.clubhotrod.com/forums/sho...784#post112784

Originally posted by lt1s10
he said..." my engine bogs down from standstill and when I step on it at pretty much any speed. I can gradually press the gas and it will pick up pretty good."

fordsfairlane, whats the fan clutch got to do with it?

Im sorry, I thought I was posting to anouther thread.

I didnt pay any attention to where I was posting .

from the looks of that carb in the pictures . it could use a good rebuilding. that could make all the difference in the world .

I run a 4 barrel quadrajet, and I like the carburetor. I have ran them on 4 previous rods. If the engine builds power alright under gradual acceleration, but bogs when you put your foot in it, there is possibly a gasoline starvation problem. Hold the chokeplate open, with the engine off, and open the throttle wide open, quickly---you should see a spray of gasoline into the carburetor. If you don't, chances are good that the accelerator pump is not functioning properly, and should be rebuilt.
Another cause of "leaning out" with a quadrajet, is the float set at the incorrect height, and if you are running dual exhaust, you should really go 1 or 2 sizes larger on the main jets. (this is best done by a carb shop, if you are a novice.)
If you are running a turbo 350 transmission then the kickdown operation is totally different than a 700R.---all the kickdown does on a turbo 350 is to drop the tranny back into second gear when the accelerator pedal is pushed all the way to the floor.
It only takes about 2 minutes to adjust this kickdown cable, but it is damn near impossible for me to describe the technique over the internet. Go to a tranny shop, get an older guy that knows the difference between a turbo 350 and a 700R, and he will probably adjust it free. I danced this dance last summer with the kickdown on my roadster pickup with a turbo 350 in it---I had 3 kids at a transmission shop all screw around with it, trying to adjust it like you would a 700R, and none of them were successfull. Then an older guy come into the shop, told the kids they were all nuts, and adjusted it in about a minute.--no charge.

http://www.clubhotrod.com/forums/sho...5&goto=newpost

I was looking for that denny, but missed it. soldout162000, Open the above thread and go down to the 11th post and adj. your sec. air valve the way it says and it will fix you problem. with the Sec Air Valve hanging open all the time then you are running on the 4 br. all the time.