I jumpered the A & B terminal to get the service engine light to flash. I got
1 2
1 2
1 2
3 3 3 3
3 3 3 5
3 5 3 5
6 7 6 7
6 7
Can anybody look these up and tell me what each means?
Thanks a bunch:D
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I jumpered the A & B terminal to get the service engine light to flash. I got
1 2
1 2
1 2
3 3 3 3
3 3 3 5
3 5 3 5
6 7 6 7
6 7
Can anybody look these up and tell me what each means?
Thanks a bunch:D
does the motor run good canibalchicken ?
Cool deal. I reset everything and all the same codes came back up. That 35, that's the idal air control motor, right.
Thanks
o yea the motor runs good at 2000 rpm's in park. It will idle to 500 but it's ruff. I still need to tweek the valves a little.
check for a vac leak also that could cause the idle problem and make the map read wrong.
Yep checked for vac leaks. Not to many vac lines on this one. Only 4 plus the brake booster. It's got 166k on the map sensor so it's probably about time.
when you pluged the dist back up the timing picked up on it right.?Quote:
Originally posted by canibalchicken
Yep checked for vac leaks. Not to many vac lines on this one. Only 4 plus the brake booster. It's got 166k on the map sensor so it's probably about time.
Hum no that I thank about it I need to go back and re check it. It was firing at 5 deg btdc at like 2000 rpm's.
thats the problem then, it should have been all over the place from 20 to 45 degrees. sounds like its not pluged in.Quote:
Originally posted by canibalchicken
Hum no that I thank about it I need to go back and re check it. It was firing at 5 deg btdc at like 2000 rpm's.
OK I changed the map sensor and the idle air control motor. It cleared the codes. I still have the code 67. at idle 400 rpm's the timing is moving between 5 deg btdc and tdc. When I rev it up it goes beond the marker btdc. All good. I started adjusting the valves on the driver side. I have one rocker that is shooting a stream of oil out and others just ozzing out. a few are not getting any oil. What do I need to do about that?
ok canibalchicken i should have did this in the first place, but ive told you all wrong on this timing, i had to look it up, but on this motor the timing wire is a 1 wire lead over next to the dist. thats tan/ black strip. unplug it, set the time on 0 degree and then plug it back up. should make it better. let me know.
ok I don't have a 1 tan wire with a black strip. ?? I have one plug that has 4 wires going from the main harness to the distrubitor, 2 wires going from distributor to coil, and 2 wires going from coil to main harness.
is that the dist. that goes with that truck?Quote:
Originally posted by canibalchicken
ok I don't have a 1 tan wire with a black strip. ?? I have one plug that has 4 wires going from the main harness to the distrubitor, 2 wires going from distributor to coil, and 2 wires going from coil to main harness.
Yes it is. It is a new one but it looks identical to the one that was on it. HEI with remote coil. Accell Spiral cor wires and bosh platinum 4 plugs
[QUOTE]Originally posted by canibalchicken
Yes it is. It is a new one but it looks identical to the one that was on it. HEI with remote coil. Accell Spiral cor wires and bosh platinum 4 plugs [/QUOTE
and its a 1993? alldata says a tan/ black wire. ok take the 2 wire plug crank the motor up unplug it and see if it changes the timing.
Tried unpluging them, it just killed it.
the tags show 1993/chevy/LL (I don't know what LL is, it a suburban.
1GNEC16K4PJ409352
my book doesn't say anything about OBD-I connection only II and one with a vacuum advance. I have a scan tool for the OBD-II but it wont hook up, plug different.
i dont know what to tell you now i looked up chev pick up , not the suburban but i reall dont think it wiill be dif. all i can do is take all of this info and look it up by the sr. no. i cant grt to the alldata now though. i can in the morning if you want me to. that color wire was that that want pluged into nothing? it sonuds like the timing is working but it sounds like its late. what happens if you jack the timing around 10 degrees?Quote:
Originally posted by canibalchicken
Tried unpluging them, it just killed it.
the tags show 1993/chevy/LL (I don't know what LL is, it a suburban.
1GNEC16K4PJ409352
yea if you could look it up that would be great, I got time. I'll jack it up to 10 and let you know.
The plug that goes to nothing has a light blue and a tan with white stripe. I put up two pictures on my gallery. Labeled it I dont know what this wire is.
:) Thanks
then you dont have OBD-2 and you cant jump the OBD-2 manualy eitherQuote:
Originally posted by canibalchicken
my book doesn't say anything about OBD-I connection only II and one with a vacuum advance. I have a scan tool for the OBD-II but it wont hook up, plug different.
let me know and the OBD-2 didnt start before around 1996
Ok I set it to 10 and it ran ok with no codes . I drove it around the block 1/4 mile got back in the drive and the light came on and and then the engine died. It was doing good till the light came on.
I also think I got some bad lifters. some are tapping. I have re adjusted the rockers three times
if it will start see if the timing is where you put it. the computer might be resetting it .Quote:
Originally posted by canibalchicken
Ok I set it to 10 and it ran ok with no codes . I drove it around the block 1/4 mile got back in the drive and the light came on and and then the engine died. It was doing good till the light came on.
I also think I got some bad lifters. some are tapping. I have re adjusted the rockers three times
When I first fired it up the service engine light was not on. Timing was about 1/2" before 14. Then the light came on and it went to 12.
and what code is it showing now?Quote:
Originally posted by canibalchicken
When I first fired it up the service engine light was not on. Timing was about 1/2" before 14. Then the light came on and it went to 12.
when you unpluged the 4 wire plug did that effect the timing?Quote:
Originally posted by lt1s10
and what code is it showing now?
The one with the 4 wires killes the engine also.
did it kill the motor or just caused the timing to go so low it wouldnt run, would it have run if you had kept your foot on the gas. if all of those wires cut the motor off then you have not found the timing wire. you dont have a vac adv right.Quote:
Originally posted by canibalchicken
The one with the 4 wires killes the engine also.
that still should not make a dif, if the motor turns over ok dont kick back then the computer should take over after you crank it. what are the codes now?
i think the timing ? would be if the timing is pluged up. it sounds like it is.
yea it just killed it. Correct, No vac advance.
what codes do you have now?Quote:
Originally posted by canibalchicken
yea it just killed it. Correct, No vac advance.
The codes it is reading now is, 33 35 & 67.
ill take this info. tomorrow and see what i can come up with. if the motor is not missing the lifters is not the problem. the motor is not missing is it?
the scanner you have will it give the sensor read out or just the codes?
The scanner is for a OBD-II, different plugs , I burrowed it from my buddy. So no good.
I just found a new wire. It comes from the main harness to the coil with the coil wires. It was under some tape. It is white with a single connection. Have no idea what this wire is or where it goes.
No no missing. All good there
Just found something. I cleared all the codes and started it. The timing was about say 17 deg btdc. I have a bad injector. One is nice and pretty and the other is a steady drip.
the white wire is the tech. wire. need to get that inj. fixed and ill check this other stuff. what do you mean 1 is spraying and the other is dripping?Quote:
Originally posted by canibalchicken
Just found something. I cleared all the codes and started it. The timing was about say 17 deg btdc. I have a bad injector. One is nice and pretty and the other is a steady drip.
The fuel was just dripping out of one injector did not have any spray to it. I pulled the neg battery cable. Changed the injector. Tried to get a hole new throttle body but it would be a couple of days. Started it, The spray on both look the same. Timing was about 17. Ran better for a few min the got the code 33 and 67.
is the inj. still dripping?Quote:
Originally posted by canibalchicken
The fuel was just dripping out of one injector did not have any spray to it. I pulled the neg battery cable. Changed the injector. Tried to get a hole new throttle body but it would be a couple of days. Started it, The spray on both look the same. Timing was about 17. Ran better for a few min the got the code 33 and 67.