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Thread: 56 t-bird won't fly!!!
          
   
   

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  1. #1
    Kevyd is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Unhappy 56 t-bird won't fly!!!

     



    My dad and I pulled the motor in his 56 T-Bird last year to paint the engine bay and detail etc.. After putting it all back in, the car has lost considerable acceleration and it will downshift abruptly without flooring it.

    We're pretty sure the downshifting woe is a linkage problem but we're stumped on the acceleration. We only tuned the motor up while out, (timing set, rear main seal etc...), we didn't have any of the reciprocationg assembly apart.

    Anyone out there have any experience with these cars?? We think it might be a carb problem or the secondaries not opening. It's a 312ci, all original. Thanks everyone!

  2. #2
    techinspector1's Avatar
    techinspector1 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: '32 Henway
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    Timing set. Bingo!

    The Y-blocks have a fosdick way of lining up the crank and cam sprocket. Did you use a Motor Manual or other manual to put it back together and are you sure you got the sprockets in the correct position? Here are instructions written by Larry Kennedy.

    First step in installing the timing chain and gears is to check the spacer ring; be sure the chamfer side is toward the cam. Next, install the woodruff keys in the crank and cam. Now slide the crank gear on the crank and position the timing mark by turning the crank, to the 3:00 o'clock position. Install the cam gear and position the timing mark on it at 3:00 o'clock. Now remove both gears. Place both gears in the timing chain with the timing marks 12 pins apart. Start the crank gear on the crank. As you slide the crank gear down, start the cam gear over the cam. Line up and engage the cam gear keyway with the key on the cam first. This will slow you to turn the cam so you can engage the key in the keyway on the crank. When both gears are installed, count the pins between the timing marks. There has to be 12 pins between them. Last step is to install the fuel pump eccentric and hardware. Torque the cam bolt to 35 ft.-lbs. You did use Loc-Tite on that bolt, didn't you?

    Here's a link to the entire piece on the rebuild:
    http://members.aol.com/yblock/258hpyblock.htm
    PLANET EARTH, INSANE ASYLUM FOR THE UNIVERSE.

  3. #3
    Kevyd is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    We followed those exact directions directly from a 1956 Ford shop manual. It was set up properly with the 12 pins between the marks (and yes, there is loctite on that bolt haha). Thanks very much for the stab at it! Any other ideas???? Thanks again.

  4. #4
    Dave Severson is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Hey Kev, I think you should just scrap the whole project, I'll come haul it away, and I won't even charge you for picking it up!!!

    What's the timing and points set at??
    Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, Live for Today!
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  5. #5
    Kevyd is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Haha, i'll run that by my dad. I'm sure he'll be up for getting rid of baby! I think the timing will be the first thing we'll double check. I'm pretty sure the stock setting was 6 degrees BTC. Seems a bit conservative.... What kind of specs do you guys have?? Thanks again!

  6. #6
    Dave Severson is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
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    If Dad sez ok, let me know. I can leave yesterday !!!!!!!!!

    Denny has the specs in his book, I don't trust my memory enough to say. Most days I can't remember what I had for dinner !!!!
    Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, Live for Today!
    Carroll Shelby

    Learning must be difficult for those who already know it all!!!!

  7. #7
    46yblock's Avatar
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 1946 Ford 1/2 ton
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    timing

     



    6 degrees is conservative on timing. Most guys advance the timing to the point max rpm at idle is achieved, and then back off until there is a drop of 50 rpm. Another technique is to set timing, take for drive, and if detonation doesnt occur, advance again, take for a drive, and so on. If you don't have a tach or means of measuring rpm you could do the first method by ear. Other than that try 8-10 degrees advance.
    A significant number of Y's have had some deterioration in the rubber component of the balancer, and therefore the timing mark may have shifted.
    Edit note: Specs for a 312 in Thunderbird call for 3 degrees with standard tranny and 6 degrees with auto.
    Last edited by 46yblock; 05-12-2005 at 05:29 PM.
    305 ci Y-block in 46 1/2 ton

  8. #8
    chappy_692000 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    here's a question for ya. the timing set wasn't from a newer year was it? i know in '70 some they retarded the cam and this would make a severe difference in power. i ran into this when i got home installed it and it was a dog so pulled them back out and compared it to my old ones the marks didn't match up the same. i then took it back and asked what the deal was they told me that they didn't carry my years set so they gave me a newer set and that they would work. needless to say i haven't been back.
    even a good thing can be made better
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  9. #9
    46yblock's Avatar
    46yblock is offline Registered User Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Kevyd, take a look at www.ford-y-block.com . It is an excellent reference site for Y owners. Click Y-block, then technical, then tune up for timing and other information.
    305 ci Y-block in 46 1/2 ton

  10. #10
    Kevyd is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    We increased the initial timing to about 10 degrees. It has already made a huge improvement. Just a few other fine tuning adjustments and the bird should be soaring again! Thanks again everyone!

  11. #11
    Dave Severson is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
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    OK, Kev, but my offer still stands !!!!!!
    Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, Live for Today!
    Carroll Shelby

    Learning must be difficult for those who already know it all!!!!

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