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Thread: Cleaning Combustion Chamber
          
   
   

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  1. #16
    lt1s10's Avatar
    lt1s10 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    i don't know if they still use it but a few yrs ago we used some stuff that GM put out called TOP ENGINE. we would run most of it through the carb. and about the last 10% we would choke the motor down with it and let the motor set with the stuff in it for about 30 min. and then crank the motor up and burn all of that old stuff out of the motor, it really worked.
    Mike
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  2. #17
    HWORRELL's Avatar
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    Originally posted by lt1s10
    i don't know if they still use it but a few yrs ago we used some stuff that GM put out called TOP ENGINE. we would run most of it through the carb. and about the last 10% we would choke the motor down with it and let the motor set with the stuff in it for about 30 min. and then crank the motor up and burn all of that old stuff out of the motor, it really worked.
    Thats the stuff !!! But they renamed it X-66 and they don't call it combustion chamber cleaner anymore, I would imagine that because it makes so much smoke & stink they hadta make an end run around the EPA...

  3. #18
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    Re: NOT Chew HW....

     



    Originally posted by Streets
    'sorry HW...
    I wazunt talkin' 'bout you, I didn't know ya had a shop where ya did that kinda stuff.. Me and this PC have enuff trouble MOST of the time in that IT crashes regulary and causes me to go off the deep end when I haven't done a dang thang to deserve it.... Sooooooooooooooo.... I sure wouldn't have a car on the street controlled with the same technology as the PC I use... Dats what I meant...
    No problem Streets, Least I ain't a lawyer........He-He

  4. #19
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    I'm going to try the water trick this upcoming spring. Never heard of it before and would have been a little leary if someone mentioned it to me, but since you all live by it I'm all for it.

    That being said, the last time mine was running so-so, I just assumed that it was due to an old engine and a unproperly tuned carb... till... I was on Woodward in Detroit and I came acrosss a 66 Pontiac LeMans and was challenged to a duel. After going full throttle a couple of times I noticed how much better it began to run.

    So the trusty run-it-hard technique works well.
    "Now bring me those cheese sandwich appetizers you talked me out of."

  5. #20
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    Water won't hurt a thing..... if you do it right.


    Warm the engine up to full temperature...
    It must be hot to do this.
    Take off the air filter.
    Rev the engine up to 2,000 to 2,500 rpm.
    Pour a bottle of water slowly into the primaries of the carb.
    She'll burble a bit and the rpm's will drop a bit.
    If she slows down a lot, ease off on the water.

    What is happening is the water gets turned to mist (droplets) in the intake manifold and when the combustion process takes place the water is turned to steam. Since water goes through a 1:1.700 expansion rate turning to steam there is a great blasting affect on the carbon, and buildup in the combustion chamber.

    Water is a lot better than some of the chemical concotions that are burned in the process. Steam is at least clean.

    Hope the info helps.
    Jeff


    Originally posted by gemcleod
    You are really serious about this water methodg? It just sounds like the sort of thing that could ruin an engine -- I thought water was the #1 enemy of engines (maybe sugar too).
    http://community.webshots.com/user/deepnhock

  6. #21
    hotshoe is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Water works -- windshield washer fluid even better. Engine should be at operating temperature before starting this procedure. SPRAY water LIGHTLY into carb while revving the engine. You'll see steam and gunk come out of the tailpipe. If you have a deserted area nearby, run the car as rapidly as possible up to 60 or 70 mph a few times afterwards. After the last run, shut the engine off before decelerating and "read" the plugs immediately.

  7. #22
    hotshoe is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    After "steam cleaning" the combustion chambers -- AND the spark plugs -- and making two or three blasts through the gears, you'll have a pretty good idea of the condition of your engine's combustion chambers' burning ability.

    Buying new plugs before reading them would be sorta like buying size 15 shoes -- just to check the size shoes that you might really need.

  8. #23
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    Originally posted by hotshoe
    After "steam cleaning" the combustion chambers -- AND the spark plugs -- and making two or three blasts through the gears, you'll have a pretty good idea of the condition of your engine's combustion chambers' burning ability.

    Buying new plugs before reading them would be sorta like buying size 15 shoes -- just to check the size shoes that you might really need.
    Well, even at "reading" ( I would say check the plugs as Reading the plugs could mean reading the plug number on the ceramic to enshure it's the correct plug for the application ) when you take the plugs out, you look at them when you pull them, when you buy new plugs and the old 1's are fine, you keep the new 1's on the shelf and when the old 1's do foul, it saves ya a trip to the parts counter.
    You don't know what you've got til it's gone

    Matt's 1951 Chevy Fleetline- Driver

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  9. #24
    gemcleod is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    What about throwing methyl hydrate into the carb? Wont that clean all of the nicotene out of the engine?

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