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Thread: Street and Strip
          
   
   

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  1. #1
    Juiced66malibu is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Jan 2004
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    Daly City
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    Street and Strip

     



    Rookie racer.

    I have a 66 Chevelle that I want to take to the Track. It has a 383ci-small block rated at 425 hp/torque; Dart Iron Eagle heads - 200cc intake runners 2.02"/1.60" valves; forged JE Pistons; 10.25-1 compression; Comp Cam Xtreme Energy Hyd. cam; .477" / .480" lift; Turbo 350 Street and Strip trans mated to a Gear Vendor (gear splitter) over-drive unit; 8.5 ten bolt posi (spool) w/3.73 gears; NOS 200 hp dual shot; Edelbrock Performer RPM Air Gap manifold; 850 cfm Holley 4150 HP series carb; 2000 stall converter; Long Tube Headers; x-piped thru two 3 chambered Flowmasters; dual exhaust to the rear, MT street legal Slicks (15 x 7s) not tubbed and tiny MT tires in front (15 x 3.5s). Also use Redline synth. products.

    My budget is very tight so I don't have much to spend on goodies. However, I'm looking to put in a 1 to 2 inch carb spacer; 3 1/2 hood scoop; 4.11 Richmond gears; and a Comp Nitrous Cam at .490 lift and new solid lifters. Can't afford new heads, so maybe port and polish heads. I believe 6,000 rpms on this engine is the max.

    I am hoping to go in the 11's but due to weight of the car (3,800 lbs), low stall converter (2000); 4.11 gears; and Cam less than 500 lift and 10.5-1 compression. I may not be able to break 12's. The reason I won't go better is because it is also a week-end driver and I don't have a trailer to tow the 100 miles to the track. Is there any recommendations or components that I can upgrade and still make it streetable?

    Also I use 92 octane gas, but with the higher lift cam and on track day should I use 114 octane fuel or a mix to 100 octane?

    Thanks

  2. #2
    pro70z28's Avatar
    pro70z28 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 70 Camaro Z-28 Now/40 Chevy Back Then
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    I'm old and cautious but I would be afraid of racing at the track and depending on that same car to get me home 100 miles. What if it breaks? I'd borrow a trailer from a freind and maybe bring them along as pit crew. My 2¢. Having said that, when I was younger 30 yrs. ago I use to do the same thing. I went with 3 or 4 other guys doing the same thing though so I had back up just in case.
    "PLAN" your life like you will live to 120.
    "LIVE" your life like you could die tomorrow.

    John 3:16
    >>>>>>

  3. #3
    Trick Racing is offline Registered User Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: Several
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    Sounds like a solid foundation for starters. The heads you have are capable of about 600 hp in a 383 with some gentle persuasion. I have a customer that drives an all steel nova to 10.30's with a 355 with the iron eagles. I am new to the forum, and would like to have the oportunity to quote any parts needs you may have
    GERRY
    www.trickperformance.com

  4. #4
    Stu Cool's Avatar
    Stu Cool is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: '53 Studebaker Custom w/LS1
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    Before changing anything, why not take it to the track to get a baseline? You may find that some simple tuning adjustments will get you closer to your goal before you start dipping into your tight budget. Make passes with and without Nitrous. That way you can get a better idea where you need to spend your money. Also, why do you think that 6,000 rpm is the limit on that motor? I had a .030+ 400 small block that regularly turned 6800 and lived for over 350 passes. And that was with some old 1.94 valve 461 casting heads with only minor port work done. That was without Nitrous, so you may be applying a harder load on the bottom end than I was.

    Personally the very first change I would make would be the rear end gears. With your over drive set up you may even be able to go as deep as 4.56 and still be livable on the street. How tall are your rear tires? You can achieve some gear reduction using shorter tires as well. Have a set of taller tires for dailey use and switch to the shorter ones for the track. You should be able to get a 9-10" wide tire under that Chevelle with the right wheels and a little inside fenderwell massaging.

    Keep us posted on your project.

    Pat
    Of course, that's just my opinion, I could be wrong!

  5. #5
    KC2006 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 83 monte carlo
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    Your set up could go into the 11's if it were matched right. If i were you I'd spend the money for a higher stall. Its not going to hurt you to run a 3200 stall on the streets.

    My friend and i have a 83 monte carlos, both of use built them almost identical (not on purpose) and he is running 11.8's with his and i'm going to be into mid 10's on juice with mine.

    He's running a torco converter that proved to be really worth the 450 bucks instead of a tci that costs 725. He's running a hydrualic 503/510 lift comp extreme energy cam, 10.3:1 compresion, 215cc iron eagles, 355 ci, 850 double pumper and a dual plane intake. The car weighs 3450 with him in it so its fairly light. For your application, i'd say get the 490 lift cam (i had that in my car last year) or the bigger 501/510, a higher lift converter, 3200 with the smaller cam and bigger with the bigger cam, get the heads ported, and if you have piston to valve room get them milled some to bump up the compression. just my .02
    I gots to know

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