Thread: Going Faster

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Well, we are already thinking of ways to get the 55 Chevy quicker. Ditch the 396 iron heads for aluminum, solid roller, more compression, and so on. Then I met a guy at Sacramento last weekend with a home built T-bucket altered. It had an injected 283 running pump gas and he was getting mid 10 times. Just curious, I asked him what he would sell it for. He won't, because he built it with his Dad. But he did mention $8000.
Now, that got me thinking.... Trying to move that heavy Chevy as opposed to just doing a light car. Besides, another $5 - $6000 in engine upgrades would maybe only get us into the mid to low 11's. And you are still bracket racing anyway.
But with a light tube frame FED or Altered and SBC power, 10's would be possible and avoid the frame cert. It could bracket race, or run open wheel class at the ANRA meets.
I know you guys are aware of so much that I am not considering. Love to hear your thoughts. Talk me out of it! Rad

...or you could put the '55 on a major diet. (if you haven't already.)

It's the easiest way to get a faster car, put the engine into something lighter. Pontiac knew that "secret" when they created the GTO. If you put that same engine you have into a little drag altered, you should run 10's for sure, maybe even 9's.

I've got a built 460 Ford sitting on a stand in my shop waiting for me to build either an Austin Bantam drag altered, or a similar T bodied car. My goal is low 9's. The other advantage of a light car is that you don't break parts as often. A heavy car takes it toll on driveline and engine parts, whereas a lighter car launches easier.

To give you something to compare it to, years ago I had an Austin Bantam B/A car with a little Hilborne injected 301 that ran 10 teens. So just think what your BBC would do. Oh, and they hook good too.

Don

This little 355 CID Chevy of mine ran low 9's/180 on alcohol. Total weight with driver was 1600 lbs.

Yes the 55 is stripped down. It even has plastic side windows. I think I will leave it nostalgia, and bracket race and street rod with the 454 as is. But, a small block is so much cheaper, and a mild build would be reliable, and still fast in a light car. I don't think I want to go faster than 10's for now. Mostly because of the extra certification below 9.99. And also, because of my experience level. 12.5 and 107mph seems pretty fast to me for now. Don't want to overdo it too soon!
With what it would cost to get the 55 faster, I'd be at 1/3 to 1/2 of the cost of a smaller car anyway. Say it cost 5-6 grand to upgrade my 454, or maybe I could get a SBC powered rail or altered going for 10 - 15. I did find one site that offers a rail package formed and tacked together. With all the upgrades, it goes for around 8. Basic bare package for 3 grand. I already have a Powerglide ready to go.....

You can get an 8.90 rail for 11.500 from my nieghbor right now and run it in the morning. Here is a site full of fast stuff to look at.

http://www.racingjunk.com/category/1...cing_Cars.html

Yeah, I've been checking that site out. As usual, one could probably just buy the right car a lot cheaper than a ground up build. Or maybe a roller and then add motor.

has alot to do with how fast you want to go and in what car i built big blocks for car that are all steel that run in 11.00 that come in over 3700 so it not hard a bigger engine will be cheaper then a new car i have a all iron bbc in a car that runs 11.00 and is all steel 3700+ car i would say he can go faster i all so have a 548 engine that has a very old intake stock 4500 carb and a 400 3 speed trans here is to things that are killing the car for et car is about 2500 car runs 8.60 really not to bad a small shot of Nos will move them faster

Small light cars have a lot of economy for going fast. As you and others have said, easier on parts, not as much power needed and even lighter to tow so you don't use as much gas. I would look for a roller super comp car that someone is letting go to move up. It would be certified if you want to faster in the future and should run easy 10s with a mild small block. I suggest going as much cubic inch as possible so you don't have to rev it to high.

Pat