Thread: Tech question for tech re fed

Tweet

heck tech i just wanted to keep it simple and know about hand brake or foot brake. Thanks for all the info

Hey Richard, while you are still on the line..........I had an Austin Bantam roadster that ran B/Altered back in the '70's. The rear was solidly mounted, no suspension at all. Is that still legal in the Altered classes for a bracket car?

I know coilovers and a four bar are better, but I have an idea for something rolling around in my head. Also, how about rear only brakes on that car?

Don

Don,

Suspension optional 2,350# or less with 100" or longer wheelbase. If overweight or underlength, front suspension required. Solid mount rear ok.

Good to 6.00 ET with rear wheel brakes only, in open-bodied car. Bodied cars require 4-wheel brakes at 7.49

10.00 and slower- SFI 3.2A/1 jacket, SFI 3.3/1 gloves, arm restraints, Snell full-face M2000, M2005, K98, K2005, SA2000, SA2005 helmet with helmet shield or helmet with goggles. Can also use SFI 41.2A or 31.2A helmet. If auto trans in driver's compartment with no floor over it, 3-2A/15 jacket and pants, SFI 3.3/5 gloves and SFI 3.2A/5 boots or shoes. SFI 4.1 auto trans shield, SFI 18.1 harmonic damper, aftermarket axles required at 10.99. Neck collar required at 135 mph, no matter the ET.

9.99-6.00 SFI 3.2A/5 jacket and pants, SFI 3.3/1 gloves, arm restraints, Snell SA2000, SA2005 or SFI 31.2A full-face helmet with shield mandatory. Goggles prohibited. 7.50 or 6.00 chassis cert tag. Competition driver's license. SFI 29.1 flexplate if auto and SFI 30.1 flexplate shield. Neck collar or HANS. If wearing HANS with no collar, must wear separate SFI 3.3 Nomex head sock or use skirted helmet with sock built in. Helmet skirt must display SFI 3.3 tag.
(neck collar serves two purposes, keeps the head steady and prevents fire from coming up in the helmet. That's the reason for the head sock if no collar). You can, of course, wear the HANS and the collar without the sock, but it gets a little bulky.

I'm just skimming over the top. If you want the whole skinny, get a NHRA 2008 Rulebook and call me on my cell. Will leave the # on PM.

Scroll up to post #2 and click on "main" to see altered specs for sale from SFI.

Originally Posted by canadianal

heck tech i just wanted to keep it simple and know about hand brake or foot brake. Thanks for all the info

Sorry Al, it's hard for me to keep it simple when talking tech.

Cool, so I can build another Bantam altered just like the one I had. Mine only ran low tens with a 301 Chevy, but this time I'm going to use my 460 Ford, so 9's should be attainable.

As soon as I get a few things out of the way I'm going to start on the frame and suspension (front).........think I'll call this one "Project Low 9's" .

Richard, as always your info is greatly appreciated. (didn't mean to hijack, but it looked like canadianal had his answer already )

Don

Originally Posted by canadianal

heck tech i just wanted to keep it simple and know about hand brake or foot brake. Thanks for all the info

I like to have both!!!! When things go wrong as they occasionally do, nice to have an option to find the whoa control!!!! I much preferred launching off the handbrake, too!!! Not sure why, just something for the other hand to do I guess!!!!! Usually stopped with the foot brake, used the right hand for the chute, then as a backup on the brake, especially on the short shut down tracks!!!!!!

PS--Blowing a valve cover gasket on a FED can REALLY make for a wild ride!!!! Make sure you use good covers and gaskets!!!!!

"PS--Blowing a valve cover gasket on a FED can REALLY make for a wild ride!!!! Make sure you use good covers and gaskets!!!!!"

Dave, I'm glad you brought this up. Alcohol and Fuel ranks have this covered by requiring vent hoses attached to each valve cover and leading to the rear of the car to dump into a sump tank. They use 1 1/4" ID hose, but you wouldn't need anything that large for a production motor. The way they do it is run from the valve cover to the top frame rail at the side/rear of the motor and use the frame rail as a carrier to the rear of the car, where a hose takes off from the frame rail in the rear to the 2-gallon catch tank.

I might be thinkin' along the lines of 5/8ths or 3/4 inch hose for a production motor. I'd use a cast aluminum cover with a rubber gasket. You could cut a hole in the top of each cover and heliarc an elbow in that would take a hose. Even if you couldn't make provision to use the top frame rails, running two hoses to the rear wouldn't be any big deal. A 2, 3 or 4 qt. can with internal baffling could be mounted at the rear of the car. Entry tubes on the bottom of the can and vent tubes to atmosphere at the top of the can. That would alleviate the crankcase pressure that extrudes the gasket in the first place and make a safer car. Personally, I think it should be required on any open-bodied, front motor car.