Here are some comments I submitted earlier.

I'm building a Gibbon-bodied highboy. Exterior finish of the car is excellent for a glass car. Gibbon forms their bodies in pieces, then bonds them together much like an original would be assembled. They do an excellent job of fitting doors, trunks, etc. The doors, trunklid, hinges, latches, etc. are nicely installed and quality stuff. I didn't have to do much with the gaps. The gelcoat they use is very nice also. It's sands well.

That being said, there are some significant problems. This is on my rod only - I don't know if it's endemic. However, if I ever do another glass car, I know some things I'm going to look for.

- The interior window moldings are not good. They don't fit the doors. I had to do major bondo and glass work to get a decent fit. They fit now, but I'm still not sure how I'm going to attach them. The finish inside the windshield around the "A" pillars is really rough. I haven't figured out how I'm going to get the molding to fit - if it will fit at all.

- There are problems with the wood body reinforcing being plumb and square. The package shelf in my '34 is about 1 1/2 " out of level side-to-side. I'm going to have to do some significant mods there. The plywood braces on either side of the trunk are not in line with each other. Fitting a flat 1/4" plywood panel to them for later upholstery took a lot of woodworking. It looks like all of the wood in my rod was placed by eye without any measurement. It goes every which-way.

- The finish on the underside of the body where they joined the body to the floor was simply awful. There is no other way to describe it. All of the joints underneath - i.e. driveshaft tunnel, firewall, etc. were not finished at all. Just gaps where the layers of fiberglass lapped over each other. The joint where the rocker panels joined the floor were equally nasty. Plenty of places for water, dust, dirt and mud to get between the outer body and the floor pan.

- I don't know what's up with the firewall and the fit with the hood. The channels for the cowl lacing are too deep. I tried the original cloth-covered lacing, and the hood sits inside the body edge at least 1/4". It looks like I'm going to have to fill the channel in order to get proper hood fit - or leave the hood sides off.

- There are places in the floor and firewall where there are three or four layers of fiberglass. It makes fitting pedals, steering columns, etc. really interesting.

Bear in mind that I built an all-steel chopped, full-fendered Model A sedan. This body is harder to work with than the A ever was.

I'm not trying to knock Gibbon's workmanship, because much of it is excellent. I just wanted to pass on my experience. This will make a nice rod - it's just going to take a lot more work than I thought. Kyle will stand behind his product. However, you have to ask yourself what you're going to do if you're 800 miles away, and start to notice problems once you get into the details. It ain't McDonalds . . . you can't go back and get a replacement Big Mac.

One final note. I would NOT get a dropped floor again. With a P&J chassis with the angled ladder bars, there is little room under the car for ANYTHING. It's possible to make e-brake lines and shifter cables work OK, but exhaust is a major problem to solve. Also, footroom inside the cab is really . . . no, I mean REALLY narrow. If you have a manual trans, I'm not sure how you would get three pedals in there. This is NOT Gibbon's fault - it's the buyer's choice.

If you decide to go with a Gibbon body - or any glass body, try to see one up close and personal at a rod show.