Hybrid View
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02-15-2016 11:37 AM #1
photo of what I use for 32 and 34 fords
the 4 casters under peice of plywood and just two 2 x 12's cut to length and stood on side and positioned exactly where the frame sits. bolt all of this together using lag bolts up through plywood into bottom of 2 x 12 and down through the body mounting bolts in floor of car into the 2 x 12. this lets you paint the bottom of body on same dolly as only areas where frame will be sitting won't get paint. paint3.jpgpaint2.jpghttp://www.daytonagary.com
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02-15-2016 01:10 PM #2
Gary, that one scares me with the 2x12's on edge, held by lag bolts up through the base. It wouldn't take much side force on the body to split those 2x12's at the bolts, and lay the whole thing over on the plywood - like moving the body to the side. Glad it's worked for you but I think you're dancing with the devil without at least some cross bracing between the lateral 2x12's.Roger
Enjoy the little things in life, and you may look back one day and realize that they were really the BIG things.
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02-15-2016 01:52 PM #3
dolly
Been doing it this way for 20 years and never any weakness much less problem. since the 2 x 12's are not parallel with each other, they run at an angle same as frame does, that triangulates them for the cross bracing you are wanting so they don't just fold over sideways. Bolted down tight to plywood and to floor of car they never try to tilt at all, they are going no where. If they were parallel to each other I would then consider some bracing but with them bolted down so tight I wouldn't foresee any problem. Especially since very little force is needed to push the body sideways. I have a 63 chevy nova body on good casters now and can push it straight sideways with one finger. Never enough force needed in moving it to put any stress at all on 2 x 12's. If I were not bolting the body down I would agree with you. On bodies where I am just quickly moving it and I do not bolt the body down to the 2 x 12's I then make a have a full 4 sided box out of the 2 x 12's bolted to the plywood like my first post in this thread describes so it has full strength pushing it in any direction.Last edited by daytonagary; 02-15-2016 at 01:58 PM.
http://www.daytonagary.com
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02-15-2016 02:22 PM #4
daytonagary, That sure is nice paint. I guess all deuce coupes don't have to be yellow! I still prefer my metallic maroon but purple-blue looks great too! Is that a Bebops coupe? The interior bracing looks similar to the bracing in my Bebops '29 roadster.
Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/teen rodder
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02-15-2016 08:16 PM #5
thanks, show car quality straightening of body panels and show car paint has been my specialty for a couple decades now. As I get older I find it harder to spend the days of time it takes straightening to perfection before paint but I enjoy the challenge just can't do it 8 hours a day anymore. with the base coat/ clear coat process to me the painting is easier now with Southern Polyurethanes high solid clear so easy to spray and then sand and buff to mirror finish compared to the old lacquer and acrylic enamel days. The clear makes it so easy to get 100% of the orange peel out and get a mirror smoothness and gloss without worrying about buffing through the clear. The color is early 2000's chevy used on cars and trucks. We were up in Somerset Kentucky at one of their big cruise weekends and the wife found it on a street rod up there and the owner told us what it was. The body is from N&N out in Arkansas but Bebops is sure the only other body I would ever consider using. And with Duane at N&N losing his help and kinda semi-retiring I will probably have to pay a little more and go to Bebop on the next one. Is closer to drive for me.Last edited by daytonagary; 02-15-2016 at 08:19 PM.
http://www.daytonagary.com
I saw last night on fb about John. The world sure lost a great one. I'm going to miss his humor, advice, and perspective from another portion of the world. Rest in Peace Johnboy.
John Norton aka johnboy