Graffitifreak
Thanks for the tire information, between what you and Roger sent me I now know which tires I'm getting. Can you tell me what lenght steering column and drop down you used?
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Graffitifreak
Thanks for the tire information, between what you and Roger sent me I now know which tires I'm getting. Can you tell me what lenght steering column and drop down you used?
Column is Flaming River, 30". FR20001BK tilt, powder coated.
Drop is Flaming River, 4-1/2". FR20104PL polished.
Again, My Body is a Downs Manufactured one. Your dash mount may be located a little different in the Bebops body.
Hey Racer, How's the build going?
Very slow, haven't touched it in a few months. I had surgery in Feb and couldn't do anything for 8 weeks so I'm getting ready to get back to it. I have plenty of parts to keep me busy thru the summer.
Hope you feel better soon. Post some pics of the progress!
Could anyone post pictures of how they mounted the fuse box and ignition box (if they have one). I'm getting ready to start wiring and am looking for great ideas.
Thanks
Are you mounting the fuse block under the dash, behind the seat(s), under the seat bottom on the floor, or somewhere else? If you're using the under dash area I'd recommend that you pick your location with the dash in place with all of the instruments mounted to show you the true space available. I did mine with the dash out, and the layout looked very neat and organized, but having a line of relays up high in the dark was not a good choice for future maintenance. Ditto the in-line fuse holder that's in the Edelbrock harness to the EFI - very hard to get to, and would have been much better about 6" lower, or even more. Think about ease of access, and if you use one of the methods to make the fuse block removable from it's mounting spot (hinge, magnet, velcro) leave enough slack in the big wire bundle to let it move, and consider that the insulation will stiffen as it ages.
Attachment 63865Attachment 63864Attachment 63866
These are the parts I need to mount. I want to mount them under the dash by adding a plate above the two cross bars. I was going to mount the fuse box on the drivers side and the ignition and solenoid on the passenger side.
If I understand your "...plate above the two cross bars" you're saying that they would be horizontal, beneath the cowl? That's the last place I would want them, as you're going to be on your back looking up into the darkest depths of your interior to see anything. I'd glue a piece of plywood or hardwood to the back side of the firewall, and mount them where you can see them clearly by ducking your head beneath the bottom edge of your dash panel, and don't worry too much about having them out of sight line, either. You can fabricate a cover panel, held off of the wood mounting panel by a few pieces of tubing, with long screws into the wood to keep things pristine.
On my new car I fastened the fuse panel to a piece of plate steel with another 1/4" piece of plate aluminum with a 3" hole in it on the back of the steel both being as wide as my fuse panel and as long, then under my dash I went to Westlake Hardware and purchased a very strong 3" round magent and fastened it to the firewall, that way my fuse panel snaps onto the magnet and locates itself because the magnet sticks in the center to the steel and not to the aluminum (as well) I left the harness long by about 8" so I can grab the whole panel and yank it down to see what is going on as its up high behind the dash. This was a low cost variation of Ron Francis's system but works well for me and cost just a few bucks. Best of Luck
Excellent idea!
But be careful, the use of high power magnets around DC current can result in CAEMF (current amplified electro magnetic fields). In some cases where the CAEMF is strong enough and combined with IWPC (insulated wire proximity capacitance) a phenomena know as DTS (dilated time syndrome) can develop. If you start experience any feelings of doing something over and over again, then you are probably working on a hot rod. LOL, just my twisted sense of humor.
Don't even get me started on Flux Capacitors! LOL
graffitifreak
Did Timeless give you the information on the pain they used on your car? I have been trying to get the code and brand from them for months now but can't get anyone to respond to my calls or emails.
They did not. I did get some touch up paint when they shipped the car. I requested a certain paint code but I don't believe that's whats on the car. If the time comes that I need some repainting done, I will probably just have to have it matched. TRC was never very good about any details. If you find out what the code is, please let me know.
I think that this guy's research was about the most thorough that anyone has done - New Page 1
If you take time to find it he says that the paint on the coupe was DuPont #5248A, which is a 1972 Corvette Canary yellow, Centari enamel. That goes against several American Graffiti blogs out there that say "Canary Yellow Lacquer" sprayed by the Orlandi's Body Shop in San Rafael, CA. Now I cannot say what paint your Timeless shop used, but that's the one that's said to be the true color.
San Rafael is on my way to work if they are open, I could swing by and check? Address: 25 Verdi St, San Rafael, CA 94901
Phone:(415) 456-3110
American Graffiti (1973) - IMDb
American Graffiti (1973) - IMDb
Internet Movie Database
Rating: 7.5/10 - 61,045 votes
A couple of high school grads spend one final night cruising the strip with their buddies before they go off to college. ... George Lucas. ... Richard Dreyfuss, Ron Howard, Paul Le Mat.
Sorry I said '61 it was suppose to have taken place in '62, should have known how many times I have seen it!
"On the last day of summer vacation in 1962, friends Curt (Richard Dreyfuss), Steve (Ronny Howard), Terry (Charles Martin Smith) and John (Paul Le Mat) cruise the streets of small-town California while a mysterious disc jockey (Wolfman Jack) spins classic rock'n'roll tunes"
It was a movie.. not a documentary. And the story was through the eyes/memories of Lucas... I'd bet he'd call it "artistic license". :eek::LOL::LOL::LOL:
Can any of you post some pictures of body dollies you have built? I'm getting ready to take my body to the paint shop and need to make a dolly. I only need to use it once so I don't want to build some fancy metal one. Any ideas would be appreciated.
Attachment 65286The paint shop probably has a dolly so all you have to do is get the body to the shop, on a flatbed if necessary. If you are painting it yourself in your garage you can probably make a dolly from a 4' x 8' plywood sheet on a wooden rectangle built from 2" x 4". Maybe Tractor Supply has such casters? Wood is cheaper for one-time use but the whole thing might come out over$200.
Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/teen rodder
Building A Body Cart - Street Rodder Magazine
Edit; the above link's design has no diagonal braces and should be modified to prevent collapse.
Thanks guys, that link is exactly what I need that's what I'm going to build.
I made a cart that was completely underneath the car body in order to give clearance for painting. You can't see all of it here, but you can get the idea. Except for the casters, it was made from stuff I had lying around the shop. I bought the casters from Lowe's or Home Depot. Don't remember which. Just check the weight bearing capacity of the casters.
Attachment 65287
Thanks Jack, good point
Don't build this without modification! Against my better judgement as a carpenter I built this thing exactly as listed to find there is absolutely nothing diagonal to keep it from collapsing and with only one bolt per crossmember it is going to collapse, which it did with a body on it! Luckily I wasn't under it, just near it!!
Exactly! Under load, that cart can collapse side-to-side or front-to-rear, given enough weight - or, if a wheel hits something and binds while you're pushing it. The one in my photo will not collapse side-to-side because of the width of the main rails and the uprights. It won't collapse front-to-back because of the triangular gussets.
Attachment 65289
You're right, it has no diagonal bracing, didn't pay much attention to it. Add a vertical 2 x 4 between the upper and lower horizontals at the corner 4 x 4s with a 12" square gusset of 1/2" plywood at each corner screwed in place would take care of it.
Attachment 65290
Not my design, I can't believe Street Rodder Mag has not amended it to be safe. The additional cost to make it safe would add less than $20.00, well worth it to be safe. However, as all have pointed out, any design should be made to fit your application and above all be safe.
One additional note when building your cart, sheet rock screws are not safe for structural applications, they have no sheer value. In other words, they break easily.
By 'your design' I was only referring to the drawing improvements you had in your post #113. The point on sheet rock screws is spot on.
I simply screwed a few pieces of plywood to the 2x4's at the corners also where it was right next to the 4x4's, mindfully I did this while its was emergency jacked up since it folded up like a tent with a VW body on it (luckily only a VW!) after that particular incident I have always wondered if some of the mag articles where really wrote by guys that actually have some "shop time" in, if you know what I mean.
Reminds me when one of the hot rod mags said turn up your hot water heater as high as it will go and hook a hose to it to really "steam" clean a greasy motor, a few people the next month stated garden hoses burst about 150 degrees and they got a scalding bath!
AGREE!! Needs lots more support. I have built many for all the bodies I have painted through the years. 4 heavy duty casters mounted on bottom of 3/4 inch plywood sheet cut to size needed then I add 2 x 12 lumber up on top of plywood on all 4 sides all bolted together with long lag bolts. gets body up just high enough to paint very easily and super strong.