Very nice work. I love the look of the engine. I also like the hiboy stance. You should have room for most of the things I don't.
(BTW, don't ask me to change your oil filter . . . ;) )
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Very nice work. I love the look of the engine. I also like the hiboy stance. You should have room for most of the things I don't.
(BTW, don't ask me to change your oil filter . . . ;) )
The oil filter you'll need is the WIX 51335 or NAPA Gold 1335 - Wix 51335 & Napa 1335 Oil Filter: FleetFilter Secure Online Store It's either that or put on a remote filter with all of the tube joints.
Roger, I got the wix filter, so now I can ask Jack to change them.
This may be a dumb question, is the front I beam strong enough to jack the front end from and put jack stand on each end?
Rest easy, Donnie. The axle is supporting the full weight of the vehicle front end now as it sits on the ground, so you can put a floor jack under the center to lift the whole thing evenly, or under either side to place a jack stand either under the axle or under the frame.
Apologies if my suggestion didn't fit this application, I just seem to remember knocking out big fat rollpins when working on stock steering assemblies.
No apologies necessary EG, I look forward to everyone's ideas.
Thanks Roger, I'll be putting it up tonight, I got my center section today for the rear end.
[QUOTE=racerx1699;520151]I want to get the motor and transmission in as soon as possible, it will look more like a Hot Rod then. But I think I need to get the fuel line and steering column in first, it would be easier. Is there anything else that anyone may think I need to do first. One of the things that Timeless did was paint the underneath and firewall so I hope I won't have to take the body off for paint.
Hi Donny, neat car looks like its off to a good start. As for your question on the steering column on mine I built a small framework under the dash out of 1-1/4'x 3/16" thick square tube to bolt the column to and made that frame go to the fire wall with flat plates 3x3" welded to the framework and the fire wall. Then on the bottom where the shaft goes threw the floorboard I put a bearing block on the steering shaft with carridge bolts . Sorta like what you would see on a pto shaft for a grain truck or farm impliment. The neat thing is that the bearing block will swivel for what ever angle your shaft hit the floorboard.
Great progress on your coupe!
I'll be thinking about you today while attending our Salute to American Graffiti days right here in Petaluma, where it was originally filmed! Such a cool car your making!
Steve, how was the Salute to American Graffiti days? Did you post any pictures?Quote:
I'll be thinking about you today while attending our Salute to American Graffiti days right here in Petaluma, where it was originally filmed! Such a cool car your making!
Brake questions. How big a hole do I have to cut in the floor for the brake pedal, and how do I cover it after the pedals in? What's the best way to access the master cylinder? Does someone make an access door to go in the floor? (pictures please)
Yeah here is the link
http://www.clubhotrod.com/hot-rod-lo...-petaluma.html
I got a little work done, this will be a several year project. Added the head lights and tail lights. Got the headers and mufflers. The next thing I'm going to work on is getting it running.
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Looking good!
Not sure which is cooler the sedan or the garage. Both meticulous. Mine looks like a tornado ripped thru it! Nice work
Where did you get the floor tiles?
A google search for garage floor tiles brought up some sources. Personally, I'd only use them for a shop or garage dedicated to display.
Diamond Garage Floor Tile | GarageFlooringLLC.com
Race deck | Garage flooring |Race deck garage flooring | Race Deck.com
http://www.costco.com/.product.10000...oryTopProducts
They're from Race Deck, they hold up very good. I've had them down for about 5 years, this is the second garage they've been in. When I moved I just took them apart and moved them.
Thanks! I love the look. Always entertaining ideas for either painted surface or mat system but I'm a messy garage owner, I'm afraid I'd mess them up working in there!
Looks like you got the top insert done, car is looking great!
Mick
Great looking car and I love the Ford in a Ford too. :cool:
http://www.clubhotrod.com/photopost/...6_800x535_.jpg Here is a pic of mine. I purchased a body and chassis from Timeless as well. Mine is a Downs body.
It looks awesome!
Being from Illinois, I have seen your '32, graffitifreak. Nice car!
Heck yeah, that is a sweet car Sir.
Thanks Guys!
Hey Rumrumm, Where did you see the car?
I think it was at the GoodGuys show in Des Moines.
No, wasn't me. There are a few tribute cars and clones around but I haven't taken the car out of Illinois yet. I've been at a lot of local shows. I will venture a bit further with it next year I'm sure. Look forward to seeing yours as well. Car looks great!
Hey Racerx, Did you get your questions answered on the brake pedal issue and Master cylinder?
Graffitifreak, I sure like your car. When did you purchase it from Timeless? How much did you have them do? Did you finish it yourself? Do you have pictures of the build as you went along? I know I'm asking a lot of questions, but it great to have someone who built the same car I'm building. I'm not a fabricator, but I can build things when I see how it's done, so I'm sure I will have a lot more questions for you.
I ordered it at the end of 2011. I took delivery in Sept. of 2012. Like you, I ordered a roller. Because they took so long to deliver, they ended up painting the car for me. I have my issues with them but the product I got was very nice. I did finish it my self. I have some pictures posted in my gallery on here of the build. I am not a fabricator either but have been in the auto parts business for some 35 years. I had a lot of help form some great friends as well. I'm pretty handy and did the assembly myself in my 2 car garage. I would be happy to answer any questions that I can. Mine is at the interior shop for the winter and I'm itching to work on something else. Looks like you got a great start on yours as well. Happy Building!!
I'm also very happy with the product that I got from Timeless and have ordered additional items from them since I picked up my car. I have a few questions to start out with.
1. What steering column did you use? Did you use the offst box that Rickey recommeded?
2. How did you mount your seats, did you use metal strips under the car?
3. What brand and size are the front tires.
1. I used a Flaming river tilt column and I did not use the offset box. I will admit, it would have made it a bit easier to locate the column but I was able to make it work. I used a ididit floor mount to get the right angle so everything cleared. I covered the mount with a leather boot as well.
2. My seats are mounted directly to the fiberglass floor with large body washers. Running 2 metal strips is a good idea and I may still do that. You would have to weld or bolt to the side supports and either tap the holes in the frame or drill all the way through and bolt in. Seat belts are bolted to the rear support behind the seat. Not sure how the BeBops body is set up here but the Downs body had a large metal and wood support behind the seat. Figured that would hold me in in the event of a accident.
3. My front tires are 14 in. I forget the exact size. I will check when I stop by the interior shop as the car is there for the winter.
I can get you exact numbers on the parts for the steering if you need them. Just be sure you have enough clearance for the headers and spark plugs. Mine is close but everything clears.
http://www.clubhotrod.com/photopost/...8_800x512_.jpg http://www.clubhotrod.com/photopost/...7_800x598_.jpg
Hope this helps.
1. I'm going to mount mine the same way you did. The pictures help a lot.. I have the information on the Ididit unit that I'm going to use. I have a lot more clearance with the Ford motor.
3. When you get a chance I would like the manufacture and size of the front tire, do not make a trip there just for that. I'm trying to find a tire about the same size in a 15 in.
You didn't comment on "2", but I'll offer that you need to have all of your seat and seat belt anchors tied to the same component, meaning that you don't want to anchor your seats to the frame and your belts to the body, or vice versa. In the event of an incident where the body might pull loose from the frame you want your seats & belts to be with one piece or the other, or your body will be the peanut butter squeezed out of the cracker sandwich. OEM's choose to anchor to the body, and don't underestimate the force that's put on those seat & seat belt attachment bolts by your body mass in a crash. If you choose to anchor to the frame then you need to build a basic roll cage for all of your anchor points.
Here's a handy reference that gives you the OD of most available tires, for the look you want - Tire Sizes It came from Ryan (40FordDeluxe) and I've used it often.
Thanks Roger, I value your opinions and have read your posts on seat mounting. I think I'm going to mount everything to the body with metal strips under the car, but I still worry about them pulling thru the body in a crash, not that a fiberglass body would give much protection anyway.
Thanks for the tire chart.
Donnie,
I think that it's all but standard practice for the floor to have "core mat" in the floor panel, which is quite stout. N&N says, "We use a core mat in the roof, doors, trunk, and floor." On the '32 roadster I'm working on I've made up four 1/8"x4" panels in various lengths with 3/8" Grade 8 bolts up through the floor, tacked to the bottom side of the plates, each catching two of the eight seat bolts (buckets) - one on each outside pair running front to back, one in front catching those bolts on both seats and another in back catching the two inner back. The plates will be epoxy primed, then stuck to the bottom of the floor with some body filler as "glue", and finished along with the bottom of the body, likely with a bed liner material again as I'm on a gravel road. For a seat to come out it will have to take most, if not all of the floor out with it, which means likely taking the whole body. Another option, even stronger, would be to take a sheet of 1/8" steel that covers the bottom of the floor, and weld your bolts to that, bonding it to the bottom side, but as you say a fiberglass body is going to tend to break up in a severe impact....
Front tires are 175-70R14, Name Brand on tires are Goodride radial sp 06. These are the tires that Timeless shipped on the car. I will eventually change them to something else of better quality.