How many of you with '32's have power brakes on your rides and is it a big expense to add it on?
Thanks
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How many of you with '32's have power brakes on your rides and is it a big expense to add it on?
Thanks
George,
Mine's a '33, but if you went with N&N's standard frame mount under floor MC and through the floor pedals you're going to be severely space challenged to add a booster. You can see this real quick by crawling under the driver's side and look at the way the frame x-member is placed - you have to add a booster between the frame mount and the MC, and that's going to require major surgery. This falls into the category of "Ya' shoulda' told Duane you wanted power brakes when you ordered." Adding them now would be a major hassle.
Woops, another afterthought = $$$$$
Have built over 40 32's and every 1 had PB's
So easy to do in the build
PIA after.
You might be able to adjust pedal leverage and/or master cylinder size to help pedal feel, however, the fronts do most of the stopping and it appears from your pics that the front calipers are pretty small and the back ones big--probably some imbalance issues---
I have power disc's on my '31 - and that chassis is much narrower then a '32.
There are several after market boosters available, but it might entail changing the exhaust run and maybe even the chassis mount, depending on how the car was assembled. It WILL require a different master cylinder, redoing at least two brake lines, adding a vacuum source and line(s) and with a blower, you might need a vacuum canister. There are remote boosters available, but then you need a unique place to mount it somewhere near the m/c.
All this takes is more money and time
Like I said - tight on a '31:
http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i8...DSC_0042-1.jpg
http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i8...ld/ThansOH.jpg
There is no real reason to have power brakes if your car stops adequately. My '29 had disc brakes up front and drum brakes on the rear, and I did not run a power booster. It stopped fine, and I did not have any issues with pedal pressure. I have power front brakes on my '32, and quite frankly, they don't work any better or worse that the brakes on my '29.
You may have some balance issues between front and rear, and you may need to play with the adjustment on your proportioning valve.
Yeah,,this is one thing that I'm a little pissed off about.Quote:
Originally Posted by DA34GUY
I spent enough $$ on this Rod and all He had to do was ask Me if I wanted power brakes,,I would've said yes!!!
Thanks Guys,,IC2,,Lynn,,Jerry,Rodger,and the 34Guy..I want to take this car to a "good" rod shop in my area and have them give me their report card on the build that the guys did on my ride.
I'll keep you all posted,,I don't have any allegiance to any company!
Jerry,do you think that having a blower would be reason not to have power brakes??Quote:
Originally Posted by jerry clayton
Well----the guys buiding your car might of thought that you wouldn't have vacume to run them---
However---your vett was supercharged and had power brakes
Your vet also had bigger calipers on the front than the back
Have you looked at the pics of the 32 build in my posts and gallery???
Jerry,,I haven't looked at the pics.
I am almost certain that my front brakes are larger that the rear.
I'll just wait till monday and have the other shop look at it but thanks for Your advice,,I really do appreciate it.
George
I put a 7in booster and corvette m/c on my 32 had plenty of room you can buy a new booster and m/c for about 2bills you may need to add a vacuum storage tank some place I have a friend that has a59 el camino with a blown sbc and had trouble stopping it he put an electric booster and m/c on it and he loves it but there a little pricy I think it was about 900.00 but is vary small and looks great he got it from a break supplier in orange ca. Ill get you the info. if you want......ted
If You can send me the info on that company in orange ca. that would be appreciated!
I believe I saw Wilwood brake calipers on your build pics---they are located down the road from you in Camarillo, Ca
Before you call them--get the diameter of your rotors front and rear, and the numbers of the calipers and also the pads---the pads used might be like race pads and need a heat build up before they work--
I have fixed braking issues and at least a half dozen rods by changing the pads----but you can then look for some brake dust issues--and/or maybe size of master cylinder bore and/or pedal leverage ratio
Then there is the fact that the Wilwood pads, including the normal street machine pieces need to be 'broken in'. Even with power brakes, it took 3-4 of their break in cycles to seat mine to the rotors (all 4 wheel discs). They were about the point that I was about to order some that were softer - but now, work very nicely and haul the car to a very fast stop without lock up. I have a 2010 post here whining about mine being less the great.
Their site is down right now, but this is about what they say (from another site):
"1. Begin with a series of 8-10 light stops from approximately 30 MPH down to 15 MPH allowing 20-30 seconds for cooling between each stop.
2. Progress to series of 8-10 moderate stops from around 45 MPH down to 30 MPH allowing the 20-30 second cool down period between each stop (you can resume driving, just don't stop for another 20-30 seconds unless necessary).
3. Proceed with a series of 8-10 hard stops from 55-65 MPH down to 25 MPH allowing 20-30 seconds of cool down time between each stop.
4. Drive at a moderate cruising speed, with the least amount of brake contact possible, until most of the heat has dissipated from the brakes. Avoid sitting stopped with the brake pedal depressed to hold the car in place during this time. Park the vehicle and allow the brakes to cool to ambient air temperature.
Notes:
During the bedding process, a more positive feel from the brakes should develop. This is an indication that the bed in process is working. If any level of brake fade is observed during the hard stops, it may be an indication that the brakes have been more than adequately heated. Begin cooling the brakes with light driving and without brake contact immediately."
What has to happen is a thin film of brake material has to be deposited on the rotors so it becomes pad tp pad material rubbing on each other.
As a side note, I just did my F350's rear disc brakes with new Hawk pads and new rotors. These had to be bedded in as well. The first several stops were less then heartwarming, but after the bedding process on Thursday and driving 30-40 miles yesterday, now better then new.
Have them pull a door panel and check the backing. Seems to me I remember a story.....Quote:
Originally Posted by 1bad32
the name is abs power brakes there on lemon st. in orange ca. the have a great web sight at abspowerbrakes.com hope that helps.........ted
George, I've got the same brake package that Ted mentioned on my '32 TCI chassis.Quote:
Originally Posted by ted dehaan
Mike
Attachment 53123
I believe you might be correct because I have heard the same about the pads being "too hard" so I'll check it all out and let you know.Quote:
Originally Posted by jerry clayton
Mike and Dave,,thanks!!
Thanks Jerry,,,You were right on by having me call Wilwood,,,they are sending me some "softer" pads as we speak and that should do the trick!!Quote:
Originally Posted by jerry clayton
You got my license plate - 1bad32. I ended up getting "NASTE32" instead.
You might want to look up M B Marketing & Manufacturing out of North Carolina.
MBM Brakes, Steering, & Suspension. I ended up putting in a 7" stainless steel booster, Master cylinder, and adjustable Prop. valve for $232.03 (not installed, of course, just parts) Mine seem to stop fine with my 32. Check out the website, their Customer Service is excellent and they don't try to sell you something you don't need.
Thanks Mike,,,ps,,,that's not My Plate,,,,it's just My user name!!
I don't think it's available anyways,,I tried it but it was taken.
I "somehow" got My rod to have yom 1932 plates!!!
Take care and we should meet up for a cruise sometime,,,like I said,,My Buddy lives in Simi.
Having 'been there, done that' concerning power brakes on a blown '32 you don't have enough vacuum to opertae the brakes properly. So the bandaid is to get an electric vacuum pump - it'll sit right behind the drivers' seat and drive you about nuts every time you touch the brake pedal. And, no, adding a resevoir to the electric pump will make no difference - it would if you had a 'window' switch for vacuum pressure that would act similiar to a thermostat but i can't find one.
Stopping while cruising is easy - get some 4piston front calipers and you are good to go, it is stopping while pulling out of a parking lot etc where power brakes will fail you because of the vacuum. In brief get your manual working right - easy to do, give wilwood a call and they will tell you exactly what to do.
Do not take your car to another shop for an 'assesment' they will pick it apart, give you nightmares and run down the folks that built you the car. In an earlier post i said you were going thru the 'new car blues' and taking it to another shop for an assesment will just add problems without resolving one single thing. I will predict that for the next 2 years you will be doing and redoing what you have befor you are 'satisfied' - that is the process of 'getting there'.
I still plan on buying it.
Installed the ABS power asset brake kit about 2 weeks ago and besides the "involved" installation,,,it works like a charm!!
It's just what I was expecting from this system,,,nice pedal control and awesome stopping power!
ps,,the noise only comes when you start the car to build vacuum,,the rest of the time it's pretty quiet.
Which ABS unit did you buy, and how "involved" was the installation? Can you explain the steps you had to take to remove the old and install the new, and about how long it took you to get it all wrapped up? Any adjustments that you had to make to the new ABS system?Quote:
Originally Posted by 1bad32
For those of you who want to see the mustang hydroboost(2004), there are 3 photos of me mounting one on page 5 of the 7 pages in my photo gallery--photos # mvc-624, 625, 626---one of them shows pretty good idea of size compared to my hand????????If someone can move those pics to this post would be appreciated
Jerry, that looks like a good system, what year mustang and can it be done with -AN fittings.Quote:
Originally Posted by jerry clayton
1Bad32, i looked at the abs site. The unit i was interested in had to be mounted below the master cyl, is that the one you got?
That unit was for a 2004 mustang---fittings---might have to have an adapter to the 37* but there are fittings that fit those type lines available at any hydraulic supply
I'll post some pics asap!!
When you post pictures can you also point us to which unit you bought (ABS has lots of different products!) and address how difficult it was to re-engineer the system and install the new hardware?Quote:
Originally Posted by rspears
Rodger,,the unit I bought was the "electric high power master cylinder,frame mount with remote fill {part # 10-57} $1,250.00Quote:
Originally Posted by rspears
We mounted the power unit under the car on the frame and put the "fill can" in the trunk.
The master cylinder went in the same place as the old one.
It took My Buddy and Me about 12 hours to install,,had a little oil leak issue because I guess We added too much oil in the "fill can" when it only needs to be filled to the half way mark since it builds pressure as the brakes are used.
Good??
Now that looks like a nice unit. I went to thier catalog and am having a time making sense out of it but i am definatly interested in one of those.
Could you do up a 'product review' for us and a few pics?
Thanks, oj
Yep, just interested in which unit, and like OJH confirmed their catalog is not the most clear layout. Pictures will help show the complexity of the install. Sounds like this was a pretty involved DIY project?Quote:
Originally Posted by 1bad32
