Thread: Power brakes,

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Before you call them--get the diameter of your rotors front and rear, and the numbers of the calipers and also the pads---the pads used might be like race pads and need a heat build up before they work--

I have fixed braking issues and at least a half dozen rods by changing the pads----but you can then look for some brake dust issues--and/or maybe size of master cylinder bore and/or pedal leverage ratio

Then there is the fact that the Wilwood pads, including the normal street machine pieces need to be 'broken in'. Even with power brakes, it took 3-4 of their break in cycles to seat mine to the rotors (all 4 wheel discs). They were about the point that I was about to order some that were softer - but now, work very nicely and haul the car to a very fast stop without lock up. I have a 2010 post here whining about mine being less the great.

Their site is down right now, but this is about what they say (from another site):

"1. Begin with a series of 8-10 light stops from approximately 30 MPH down to 15 MPH allowing 20-30 seconds for cooling between each stop.

2. Progress to series of 8-10 moderate stops from around 45 MPH down to 30 MPH allowing the 20-30 second cool down period between each stop (you can resume driving, just don't stop for another 20-30 seconds unless necessary).

3. Proceed with a series of 8-10 hard stops from 55-65 MPH down to 25 MPH allowing 20-30 seconds of cool down time between each stop.

4. Drive at a moderate cruising speed, with the least amount of brake contact possible, until most of the heat has dissipated from the brakes. Avoid sitting stopped with the brake pedal depressed to hold the car in place during this time. Park the vehicle and allow the brakes to cool to ambient air temperature.
Notes:
During the bedding process, a more positive feel from the brakes should develop. This is an indication that the bed in process is working. If any level of brake fade is observed during the hard stops, it may be an indication that the brakes have been more than adequately heated. Begin cooling the brakes with light driving and without brake contact immediately."

What has to happen is a thin film of brake material has to be deposited on the rotors so it becomes pad tp pad material rubbing on each other.

As a side note, I just did my F350's rear disc brakes with new Hawk pads and new rotors. These had to be bedded in as well. The first several stops were less then heartwarming, but after the bedding process on Thursday and driving 30-40 miles yesterday, now better then new.

Originally Posted by jerry clayton

Before you call them--get the diameter of your rotors front and rear, and the numbers of the calipers and also the pads---the pads used might be like race pads and need a heat build up before they work--

I have fixed braking issues and at least a half dozen rods by changing the pads----but you can then look for some brake dust issues--and/or maybe size of master cylinder bore and/or pedal leverage ratio

I believe you might be correct because I have heard the same about the pads being "too hard" so I'll check it all out and let you know.

You got my license plate - 1bad32. I ended up getting "NASTE32" instead.
You might want to look up M B Marketing & Manufacturing out of North Carolina.
MBM Brakes, Steering, & Suspension. I ended up putting in a 7" stainless steel booster, Master cylinder, and adjustable Prop. valve for $232.03 (not installed, of course, just parts) Mine seem to stop fine with my 32. Check out the website, their Customer Service is excellent and they don't try to sell you something you don't need.