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Thread: Gibbon or Wescott 32 3 window
          
   
   

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  1. #1
    rumrumm's Avatar
    rumrumm is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: '32 Ford 3W Coupe, 383 sbc
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    Redneck's '32 body is not chopped so that's why it looks different.


    Lynn
    '32 3W

    There's no 12 step program for stupid!

    http://photo.net/photos/Lynn%20Johanson

  2. #2
    rspears's Avatar
    rspears is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: '33 HiBoy Coupe, '32 HiBoy Roadster
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    Quote Originally Posted by rumrumm View Post
    Redneck's '32 body is not chopped so that's why it looks different.
    Redneck custom fabricates to your order on the '32 coupe, "Our 32 Ford kit cars are all built to your specifications. When you purchase one from Redneck you'll receive standard features most competitors don't offer. Build your own 32 Ford Coupe with a custom chopped (1"-3" or more) or angled top." Like Lynn says, their promo shots are often stock roof height. I recall talking to a guy at GGNW Nat's in Pleasanton about his nice looking car and that his car was a Redneck body, but I cannot recall which car it was out of the 200+ pictures I took When I was looking I could not see paying 2X for their body, but they do make a good product that holds up well over time.
    Roger
    Enjoy the little things in life, and you may look back one day and realize that they were really the BIG things.

  3. #3
    1960apache's Avatar
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    I just contacted Redneck's and they do have a chop available for an extra cost, but it would put it within $3-$5000 of the Wescott, which is already chopped, but then with the few add on's, the Wescott is within $4k of the Brookville, but the Brookville is not chopped, so actually the stock height Redneck's is looking pretty good at this point.
    Has anyone heard what the Brookville's are selling for, or is the demand still strong enough that they can still easily get the $25k+ retail price?

  4. #4
    IC2
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    If you 'hit' Brookville at an NSRA or Goodguys show, they will quite often discount anything they have with them so they don't have to take it home. Other then that, a friendly shop owner might be able to come up with an appropriate price if you end up buying lots more parts from him. My '31 Brookville had a bunch of bucks off list - no shipping or crating charges and a couple of other options were priced right. Much of the rest of the car did come from my dealer so he made out otherwise. I did pay a price on quality though as body and paint prep went on forever. If you are an accomplished body man, then not a big deal.

    Oh yeah - the final cost - gasp, gag!! In my case about 2x what I thought it would be and if I were to do it again, probably could do it within a time and dollar budget as my past vertical learning curve - it's now closer to flat/horizontal
    Last edited by IC2; 09-09-2010 at 12:27 PM.
    Dave W
    I am now gone from this forum for now - finally have pulled the plug

  5. #5
    1960apache's Avatar
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    Just when I think I have it all figured out, someone throws a fly in my ointment.
    That's what I am finding about the Brookville. I have restored quite a few Vette's and for me, fiberglass is 10 times easier to work with than steel.
    I have been reading some other post's and found these guys, New Age Motorsports, that do a chopped 5 window, which is really growing on me. I just need to find more pics of the style I plan to do.
    Also, I am finding the additional bodywork that people have had to do is minimal on the Redneck's, Wescott's and also the New Age.
    Last edited by 1960apache; 09-09-2010 at 01:21 PM.

  6. #6
    DA34GUY's Avatar
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 32Roadster/always buildin sumthin
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1960apache View Post
    Just when I think I have it all figured out, someone throws a fly in my ointment.
    That's what I am finding about the Brookville. I have restored quite a few Vette's and for me, fiberglass is 10 times easier to work with than steel.
    I have been reading some other post's and found these guys, New Age Motorsports, that do a chopped 5 window, which is really growing on me. I just need to find more pics of the style I plan to do.
    Also, I am finding the additional bodywork that people have had to do is minimal on the Redneck's, Wescott's and also the New Age.

    Ahhh ! The fly in the oinment.
    Yer startin to figure it out Apache.
    The last brookville (roadster) I did, had over 90 hrs in it B4 it was ready to paint, compared to 8 - 12 on an N&N (glass)
    Again Do the math.
    BTW Ed @ New Age probably builds the nicest and most correct 5 W on the market, and he's a great guy to deal with.
    When I get to where I was goin, I forgot why I went there>

  7. #7
    1960apache's Avatar
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    Glad to hear that, because that is pretty much the way I am leaning! I am already sleeping better knowing that I didn't spend $25k+ on just a BODY!!!
    I found a few good pics similar to what I am trying to end up with.
    So now I need to think about the chassis options. I have been pretty much stuck on the So Cal frame, with the buggy rear spring etc.
    As far as the engine, I am pretty much down to the small block ford with Edelbrock Valve covers, Air cleaner on top of the dual quad system.
    I also need to look into rear end options, 9" vs quick change type stuff!
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  8. #8
    IC2
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    Quote Originally Posted by DA34GUY View Post
    Ahhh ! The fly in the oinment.
    Yer startin to figure it out Apache.
    The last brookville (roadster) I did, had over 90 hrs in it B4 it was ready to paint, compared to 8 - 12 on an N&N (glass)
    Again Do the math.
    BTW Ed @ New Age probably builds the nicest and most correct 5 W on the market, and he's a great guy to deal with.

    ....only 90?? You must have gotten a good one then

    I have 30-40 hours in the trunk lid alone, then there's the 20-30 hour '32 grille shell tooling marks as well as the depressed areas and the right top corner that was misshaped, tooling marks along the trunk reveal, a door that oil canned, a cowl side that didn't meet the cowl cover, the left quarter panel that was flat and needed to be cut loose to be fixed. And that's the repairs I can recall without going to my pictures. Oh yeah - how can a door gap (just at the reveal) be fine before the car is blown apart to paint and bad after paint?? But - it's a steel car, can be fixed fairly easily, but as an amateur my efforts do take a bit longer

    I did this car because I wanted a good steel OEM or repro - I just didn't think it would take as long to fix the body as a 75+ year old version
    Dave W
    I am now gone from this forum for now - finally have pulled the plug

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