Hey guys. If I were to build a 32 highboy sedan where would the battery go. The only place I can think of is under the back seat.
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Hey guys. If I were to build a 32 highboy sedan where would the battery go. The only place I can think of is under the back seat.
I use the real small ones and put it under the dash.
Ken
If I remember correctly, Ken is running the same battery I am, an Odyssey PC680. It's only 7 inches wide x 3 thick and 7 tall, but it starts my T every time, even after sitting for months at a time.
Don
Wow, I really screwed up that picture!
I guess I should have asked before I installed that monster Optima in my car's trunk:o:o
http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i8...ild/Trunk1.jpg
(That rat's nest of wires alongside the battery have been cleaned up since this photo was taken:D)
This is a great idea! Thanks both Ken and Don for a great tip! I really didn't like the idea of 15' battery cables running from the trunk. I will be looking to allocate space for an Odyssey behind the dash.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ken Thurm
http://hotrodders.com/journal_photos...1628480952.jpg
http://hotrodders.com/journal_photos...1628482672.jpg
http://hotrodders.com/journal_photos...2540190632.jpg
On both my 32 roadster and my 32 3W coupe ... I have a place in the floor ... under the passenger seat. I like to use a Group 24 battery with 8oo CCA. The group 24 is a easier found replacement battery ... if you have trouble away from home. I also do not like the battery in the trunk ( just me ) but my wifes new DTS Caddy have one from the factory under the back seat. I like the battery as close to the firewall as possible to eliminate LONG battery cables. Henry Ford installed the battery in 32 Fords ... in about the same location I have mine. The top of the battery box in mine is flush with the front floor ... so it it high enough NOT to hang down below the frame and that the battery CANNOT be seen from a side view of the 32. :D
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/a...9&d=1255285901
You can see that the seat clears the metal cover over the battery and in no way ... affects the operation of the seat. You can also see ( if you look at the 3rd photo ) the cut -off KILL switch.
Deuce, your mentioning CCA made me look again, and that little dry battery has only 220 CCA. I plan to drive year round, in decent weather, so I may need to re-think using the little Odyssey.Quote:
Originally Posted by Deuce
I was politely trying to telling you that the little battery MIGHT not be enough. :DQuote:
Originally Posted by rspears
I did not want to put anyone else's choices or selections down.
My 3W has Vintage Air ... and air conditioning needs amps. I also have a PowerMaster high amperage alternator.
http://hotrodders.com/journal_photos...1913596511.jpg
A/C , along with Halogen Sylvania SilverStar H4 headlights and halogen tail lights ... requires a prety good electrical system. That little battery may work for the other guys ... but not in my car. :CRY:
CCA are only part of the picture.
PC 680 / PC 680mj Specs:
* 680 cranking amps for 5 seconds
* 595 cranking amps for 10 seconds
* 525 cranking amps for 20 seconds
* Short circuit current over 1800A
* 17Ah
* 25 minute reserve capacity with 25amp load
* CCA - 220 (Is this important?)
* Female brass terminal w/M6 SS bolt
I was very leery when I first heard of these so I called the company. The President of Odyssey told me he is using one of these to start his blown BBC engine with power to spare. Mine has been in the car for 3 years now with absolutely no problems. Conversely, my Son Don has an Optima that he has to keep a trickle charger on at all times or it goes dead after a few weeks. This little Odyssey sits for months sometimes and always cranks it fine.
However, if you do have a lot of accessories like A/C, amplifiers, etc, it might be wise to add a bigger one.
Don
I have that one in my truck. It has a pretty nice stereo in it with a 55 amp alternator and mine is always up. No problems, I drive it 2 or 3 times a week, weather permitting.
You can add up your usage and take the guessing out of it. It's just so nice to work with the small size. I have two wing nuts and it drops down from under my dash.
Ken
Pretty much same here. During even daylight hours I run with my headlights (halogen) on because otherwise my volt meter starts climbing into the 14+ volt range, and these dry batteries are happier at around 13.8 max. The other advantage of the way Ken mounts his batteries is a very short cable run. Mine is in the back, but still cranks fine.
By the way Ken, your new avatar rocks.:)
Don
i seen the small dry cells crank 540 plane engines seam to be the way to go??i have two optima s and the one its DEAD . so the hold out is no better then a plate battery so i going to try to work the batteries thru my every day driver to help keep them up in the winter time just have to wash all the salt off them before putting them back in the cars
The guy I spoke to at Odyssey said they were originally the people who developed the Optimas, but the Optimas had an inherent problem. Because it has those 6 round cylinders there is a lot of dead area in between each one and that space contributes nothing to the output. They knew if they could build the same battery but without the round cells they could build a stronger, but smaller battery. However, until the robotics were developed to handle the plates (for some reason human beings can't handle them) they couldn't build them. Once the robotics did become available they were able to start making them.
All of what he was explaining was over my head, and it was 3 years ago, so I may be a little off on those details, but that is the gist of it. I was so skeptical I planned space in my T for a second one to double up on the kick, but as soon as I fired the engine for the first time I knew it wasn't going to be needed.........and that continues to this day, three years later.
Don
Ken,Quote:
Originally Posted by Ken Thurm
I agree, the battery is there to start the engine, and to supplement in those low rpm times when the alternator output can't handle the load. I have a 100amp alternator, which helps that situation. It is probably shown in a build thread, but did you use bulkhead connectors to pass through the firewall or thread the cables in grommets and then terminate ends? Anything special on mounting for the two wingnut drop out? One of the nice things is that the dry unit can mount in any orientation, upright or flat - right?
I am going out of town till Monday, but if you want I will dig out the photo's on how I did it and post them then.Quote:
Originally Posted by rspears
Ken
Yep, any position except upside down. I would recommend you call Odyssey and run your application by them. They were extremely friendly when I called them and suspect they are still the same.
Here is where I tucked mine in, so as you can see it sits right where it gets wet, etc. Even under those conditions it's been fine.
Don
Don,
I look at that and I don't think I will ever use a old style again. Last year at the SEMA show Mike and Bob took me to a booth where they had lithium battery's that were at least twice the power of conventional stuff and smaller that the one we used, really neat for space saving. That's what I'm going to get for my sedan.
Ken
Under the back seat will help the TRACTION CONTROL!!!!
They can be put under the dash if you live/drive somewhere that you don't need a heater
OPtima also has 6 volt batteries that are half the thickness as the 12 volters and can be mounted in opposite side panels, etc and then connected in series for 12 volts
Ken, that would be great, but I'm also intrigued by your lithium battery reference. Can you point me to a manufacturer that you looked at?Quote:
Originally Posted by Ken Thurm
The 6 volt Optimas work great in a sedan. Hook 2 of them up in series end to end behind the back seat.
Tim
Go to xspowerbatteries.com pretty cool stuff.Quote:
Originally Posted by rspears
Ken
Ken, XSPowerBatteries seems to have an ideal package, small and significantly more power. However I could not find anything on how to buy from them. I have an e-mail in to them.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ken Thurm
I'm still very interested in details of your behind the dash mount if you can point me to any pictures posted previously?
Roger,
Hang on to your wallet :LOL: but I think the advantages out way the cost.
Ken
I talked to Nathan at XSPower today, and they are currently in development on their Lithium line for automotive applications that use an alternator output to recharge. At this time their lithium line is only for total discharge service, focused on racing applicagtions like ProStock where you need to start the vehicle, provide power to run for a few minutes, but recharge via a wall plug DC charger, specifically designed for their batteries. This is their LR48 unit, which is computer controlled output and dedicated wall charger in the $2000 ballpark. They have not yet determined the specifics of packaging but expect size to be something like their 680 or 925 units in their AGM (absorbed glass mat) batteries. Their AGM line is similar to that from Odyssey, but XS may have a bit more power - hard to say as they do not print their specs the same way.
Nathan estimated that their lithium street automotive line is at least six months out at this time. All lithium units will have internal computerized technology, so an automotive alternator friendly unit is going to be several (many?) times the nominal $120 price for an AGM unit. Looks like a sealed AGM style is my ticket.
Ken, as noted above if you can point me to pictures of your under dash installation I would love to see your approach.
Roger,
If you go to the thread 32 Ford Truck, you can see the frame work behind my dash. I first thought of o\putting it under my seat, there is a photo of that also. I'm to lazy to take my dash out of my truck to photograph if. But if you don't think you have enough info I will. Let me know.
Ken
I just tried to look up my truck build and without clicking on my name I couldn't find it. Maybe you know how to do this I don't. But the name of the thread is 32 ford truck. Good luck if you try.
http://www.clubhotrod.com/forums/showthread.php?t=30869
I think this is it.
Ken,
Don't pull the dash. I found the thread (http://www.clubhotrod.com/forums/sho...ght=ford+truck) using Advanced Search. My framework behind the dash is similar, and today when I talked to Nathan at XS Power they were having a sale on their 680 series batteries with their 511 hold down and automotive terminals as a package including free shipping. It should be here by the middle of next week, and I think it will be easy to hang. One thing I did not see in the 32 Truck build thread - did you go to battery bulkhead terminals on the firewall or did you have another method to get the power & ground to the starter?
They are run down the inside of the firewall to the floor next to the tunnel. Then I have quick disconnects that go outside to the starter. These quick disconnect I got from Morroso, they are used for charging a battery on a race car. It's just a nice male to female plug.
Ken
Did you see the photo where the cab is off the chassis and the dash lights are on? This shows how the cab is completely independent from the rest of the truck, then everything plugs into the cab with quick disconnect electrical plugs that screw together. Just one way of doing it.
Ken, is this the Moroso quick connector you're talking about?
Ken,
Also found another Moroso connector style (on the left, RCA style), plus a simple bulkhead terminal set that would have to be unbolted to separate body from chassis.
Yep, that's the RCA style that I use. I have had good luck with them.
Ken