’32 3W Coupe roller package advise/opinions wanted

It's been my experience that the big companies occasionally sacrifice customer service for the big volume..... All the name brand parts and suppliers are kewl, if you're just out to be a name dropper at the next cruise night.... Careful comparison shopping can often turn up a better deal, sometimes in price and sometimes in quality....

Having been a small shop owner I'll again mention checking locally for a builder.... There's some very high quality builders around who don't go in for the big name, big ad budget, big volume but rather sit back and do one at a time builds with the emphasis on quality and customer satisfaction.... Do your research well on you local area assets before you pick up the big catalog and pay the freight charges for an assembly line special..... But then I'm probably a bit biased because of my own experience....

And no, I'm not looking for work.....way more then I can handle now....But I'd betcha even money there's a couple local builders in your area who can build exactly what you want in a timely manner and maybe even save you a buck or three in the process....

Dave, I think that you and I are more on the same page, I’ll gladly take your advice.

In the bike world, I don’t care for manufacturers that carve their logo or name into everything, I'm definitely not a name dropper, I like the low key, subtle approach. An example, I rode my bike with some friends to a big bike event a couple of years ago, we parked in the lot with everyone else. Later in the evening my friends said that the announcer was calling over the PA system for the owner of such & such bike to come to the stage and insisted it was my bike. I thought they were jerking my chain, but they literally drug me toward the stage. Much to my surprise, my bike had been chosen the 'People's Choice Award'. When the MC presented me with a trophy and asked me to describe my bike to the crowd, all I could think of was, "it's nothing special". Even my wife said later, "after 8 years of building it, that's all you could come up with".......lol

When checking out rides, I don't get caught up in high $$ billet wheels, mega $$ paint jobs, or in the case of cars, high end interior work. My eyes go for the special small details, the true craftsmanship of building. That's the reason I'm intrigued with Ken Thurm's '32 project, I can't wait to see his next posts. I don't have access to the resources that he does, my car would never equal his (or come close), but the ideas I got from someone like him are priceless. When I see things that he does and other people as well (Deuce is included here), I add them to a spreadsheet I have called Street Rod Project Ideas. The more I browse around the net at different projects, the longer the list gets. I also save photos of things I see as well ( I won't mention Deuce again, he will probably want a fee). I’m learning more and more every day.

Thanks,
Mike

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Originally Posted by Deuce

Get out your checkbook ... then ...

1) buy a Wescott 32 3W body -The Rod Shop (glass)
2) buy a So-Cal frame or TCI chassis stage III-The Rod Shop Stage I
3) buy a new crate engine and transmission.-Custom Pro-built 406 SBC,700r4
4) buy a Walker radiator-Aluminum custom w/tranny cooler and a/c condenser
5) buy a Vintage Air Generation II mini air unit-Hot Rod Air Elite Model
6) Buy a Tea's seat-Ford Explorer Used
7) buy a wiring kit from Ron Francis-American Hwy 22

The above are some of the best known suppliers in the street rod world ... and have been so for a good while. They have earned a good reputation by selling quality parts.

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Mike as you can see by the comparison of my parts Manufacturing to Deuce's list you do have a lot of options.Even though my build was a 34 3/W the parts are similar in pricing.
I ran a tape on all my costs right down to travel costs to pick up the chassis and body(Indiana,Pa) and I shopped a lot at Home Depot, Local Hdw.and speed shops.The total was 39,624.00.Of course labor is free.LOL,LOL

My build took 16 Mo.to complete,that included build trouble shoot,tear down complete,paint(4000) and upholstery(1200 deal),included in total.

I encountered some problems but that is why we are all here on the forum to help each other out and help they did.It had been a while since I had built at this level.
Hope this helps,Good Luck

A link that I found very helpful in the build www.seattlestreetrods.com

Just a couple more thoughts along the lines we're going. Though my sentiments are more aligned with Randy's view than Dave's these points will work either way.

This is neither a negative comment on N&N, Redneck (who might be out of business or changed hands), or any of the other brands lauded here, nor an endorsement, but if I were in the glass 3W market I'd lean heavily toward the Wescott. True they cost more, but when you're flirting with $40k total, a few grand more for the extra quality is a comparative drop in the bucket. It's sometimes tempting to save a buck here, save a buck there (which is not all bad because it contains "bracket creep"), but sometimes a few bucks more is a wise move.

Another point is, you're in full control of your outcome. Take the time, as it appears you're doing, to learn, learn, learn. Then mix that with some practical investigation, or hands on investigation. I'll point to another thread that's running currently. It asks about what's the "right" length for a deuce steering column. There's somewhat of a consensus there, but also some deviation. My point in that thread was that we can point an individual in a good general direction, but it's up to them to test what we've done against their specific situation, needs, tastes and so on. This is a custom built car..........emphasis on the custom (or tailored if you prefer)

In a similar vein, try out things like seats as an example. Randy mentioned Tea's Design. These are a very popular item, lots of rods have them. The one's I've seen look very well built and if they had any construction issues we'd likely have heard of them. That being said, I got my first chance to sit in one at the '96 Nats. They had a mock up display and I parked my butt in the seat for about 10 minutes. That little "scoopy back" thing they do may work well for most folks, but it gave me a heck of a back ache. I'm obviously incompatible with what might work for many others. So spend some time, as suggested earlier, at some of these larger events, and don't be afraid to talk to folks with parts that interest you at local events, and try stuff on "for size" and see if it works for you.

[QUOTE=Bob Parmenter]Just a couple more thoughts along the lines we're going. Though my sentiments are more aligned with Randy's view than Dave's these points will work either way.
QUOTE]


Geez Bob---Hard to believe that you and I would not concur on the look and build of a Hot Rod..... Heck, I'm still hurt that you wouldn't let me do a bit of a tune up on that old white Dodge!!!!!!:( :( :( :CRY: (Really hurt my feelings on that one!!!!!:p :p :LOL: ):whacked:

Mike,
I am lucky enough to have a job that pays me to go to car shows and I talk with many people. Customers and other vendors so you see and hear all some things just make you wonder why?
But with that being said I also get to see and hear all the good and bad about vendors and the product they sell.
There is a list above that is a good list for quality parts. But there are others IMO that are just as good or better out there.
IMO N&N is as good as Westcott but have not been around as long and are just getting the reputatiion that Westcott and Redneck have had for a while. People build a better mouse trap every day and I feel Duane has. I love my car and I feel the quality is as good or better than anyone else out there.
I also feel that kwik wire is every bit as good as Ron Francis and a better value.
I have used RF in 2 builds and used KW in the last 5. The only advantage is with RF you run the wire to the box with KW they are in the box and you run them out to where they are going. This can make for a little of a hassle until you get them seperated. But 5 minutes and you are set. KW also have a built in kill switch in all units that will help with theft.
Teas I dont care for..... great product but I am not crazy about the people and the customer service and to me that is just as important as the product.

Bob, your advice is appreciated. I completely understand what works for one person may not work well for another, the steering column thread is a good example. Your example about the Tea's seats is another good one, choosing a comfortable seat is at the top of one of my lists. I had back surgery the day after Christmas (another reason I'm giving up the bike experience) so the right seat is very important. This will be one of those situations where a 'catalog' seat won't work for me, I will have to sit my butt in a few to find the right one.

iceburgh (eventually I'll get to know these guy's real names), it's information like yours that I'm searching for, an honest recommendation from someone that has actually used a product, thanks a lot!!!

Mike

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Originally Posted by iceburgh

IMO N&N is as good as Westcott but have not been around as long.

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http://www.wescottsauto.com/body-pho...2_3W_Steel.jpg WESCOTT

http://www.nnfiberglass.com/Pictures/12n.gif N&N

While I have not looked at every N&N 32 3W made, the ones I looked at did not have the nice steel cage that Wescott has. ( see photos ). Also a lot of the nicer features of a Wescott was missing on the N&N body.

http://www.wescottsauto.com/body-pho...e-stock-08.jpg WESCOTT

http://www.nnfiberglass.com/Pictures/9n.gif N&N

The firewall in a Wescott actually looks like a 32 firewall.
The Wecott has a cowl vent, a working windshield and a correct looking dash with a functioning glove box door.

http://www.wescottsauto.com/body-pho...e-stock-37.jpg http://www.wescottsauto.com/body-pho...e-stock-26.jpg

These features mean a LOT to some of us. Bob Parmenter is correct in saying that the Wesott is the class of the field IMHO.
In my opinion ... the Wescott is at least TWICE as good as a N&N ... but unfortunately they cost three times as much. :o

Back to Mike52's project. Look and see what style coupe you want. Maybe a car with a slicked off firewall, no cowl vent and glued in windshield fits ... your build style. :D Absolutely nothing wrong with that. There are LOTS of coupes out there in that style. Real popular look. If that's what you want ... a N&N may be just what you need.

Good Luck with your selection process and if any of us can be of assistance ... you know we are just a mouse click away. :3dSMILE:

I was not bashing Icebergh's opinion or his car ... after reviewing the post ... it looked that way and that is NOT my intention.

Deuce, I can tell you are a die hard Deuce owner, and very passionate about your steel '32s. I've saved some pics of your project on the coupe and I value your information and knowledge. I'm sure I'll have many more questions in the future.

In my opinion ... the Wescott is at least TWICE as good as a N&N ... but unfortunately they cost three times as much.

I have looked at the Wescott bodies and agree, they are probably the top of the line fiberglass body on the market, but you are also right about the price. By the time you factor in some of their options, they are only slightly lower in price than some of the steel bodies on the market which I already eliminated from my build budget. I'm looking to spend around $20k for a body and chassis combo only, then continue on from there. $20k wouldn't even get me a Wescott body with simple options, so I need to look elsewhere unless you know where I can get a sweet deal on one. Some of the things that are important to you and others are not so important to me, I don't want/need a cowl vent, ribbed firewall, or chrome windshield frame, but I do want to find something in my budget that comes recommended as a quality product, once again, that's the intent of my original post. Going back to my early days as a kid interested in cars, I always thought the street rod hobby was about being different, it would be pretty sad to see the same cars with only different paint.

Mike

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Originally Posted by Mike52

Some of the things that are important to you and others are not so important to me, I don't want/need a cowl vent, ribbed firewall, or chrome windshield frame,
Mike

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Then you have found your coupe body ... :)
A N&N 3W can be bought with a chassis ... in your budget range ... with money left over for other things you will need.

That's the cool thing about Hot Rods ... not restored cars. You can do want you want to ... as long as it is a safe vehicle and be OK. With a restored vehicle ... it can only be one way ... the factory way.

[QUOTE=Dave Severson]

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Bob Parmenter

Just a couple more thoughts along the lines we're going. Though my sentiments are more aligned with Randy's view than Dave's these points will work either way.
QUOTE]


Geez Bob---Hard to believe that you and I would not concur on the look and build of a Hot Rod..... Heck, I'm still hurt that you wouldn't let me do a bit of a tune up on that old white Dodge!!!!!!:( :( :( :CRY: (Really hurt my feelings on that one!!!!!:p :p :LOL: ):whacked:

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Man up old dude!!!!!!!!!!
:LOL: :LOL:

I've never restored a vehicle in my life. The factories just weren't that good.

:)

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Originally Posted by Henry Rifle

I've never restored a vehicle in my life. The factories just weren't that good.

:)

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Me neither Jack, but try to explain that to Bob, he wouldn't let me touch his old Mopar.... heck, threatened me with voodoo, Egyptian curses and all kinds of stuff...and all I wanted to do was a tiny bit of "restructuring" on the roofline!!!!!!:LOL: :LOL: :LOL: :LOL:

Now that we've covered the very basics like, it's going to cost twice as much as estimated, take twice as long as anticipated, and steel or 'glass, it's time to ask more questions. We touched on this very briefly, well as least Deuce touched on it, let's talk about front suspensions.

I've noticed the cost of roller chassis are roughly the same with straight axle set-ups or IFS. Personally, I like the look of the more modern IFS. What are the pros and cons of these front suspensions on a set of Deuce rails, the difference in ride quality, the ability to set or adjust ride height, ability to make changes to adjust for ride quality, etc?

Mike

If you look at the steel structure inside of the Wescott body - it is a stand alone assembly. The fiberglass itself is not structural - the doors are hung on the steel framework, they latch on the steel structure, the dovetails are mounted to the steel structure. The steel structure runs through the rockers from the firewall to the rearmost body mount hole - and each body bolt passes through this assembly.

There is a reason why they have been in business so long.

The Wescott accepts all stock Ford window channels, glass sweeps, window regulators, door latches, door hinges, etc, etc. If you scotchbrite and prime one up - it would take a highly trained eye to identify it as glass from 20' away.

You have mentioned that you do not care about a stock style firewall, or steel windshield frame, etc. But you need to to ride in and or drive a 'glass bodied coupe from one of the popular makes - choose one, redneck, outlaw, bebob, heritage, whatever. I've been involved with severl builds using those bodies, and they are nothing like riding in a stock Ford body.

Go to a car show and open and shut the door on a stock Model A - the doors latch like a light switch - the dovetails keep all rattling down to a minimum. The 3 hinge design on the 3w coupe supports the doors weight properly, etc, etc.

But it is quite hard for anyone to impart upon you the value of spending the extra money on a body - there are those of us that bought and built cars using low end bodies, were aggravated with them, built cars with better bodies and were happy with them. Those people will try to advise you to buy the better body the first time - but the higher cost with most likely deter you from doing so. It is the tiny intangible things that make all the difference in the world when it comes to buying a higher quality body - they seem so minor when typed into a post on a message board - but 2+ years into a project, they sure add up.

Maybe if those people who bought $5k bodies, got frustrated, bailed out on the project, sold it on ebay for 70 cents on the dollar - if those people were still involved in the hobby and still posted on message board about this hobby - they would tell you the same things the experienced builders are telling you.

Good luck with your build.

BTW - I just noticed you are in Tampa - cool. I'm in Daytona - I've built over 200 '32 chassis in the last 10 years and 30+ turnkey '32 Fords.

My current Roadster - my Sedan - and the chassis we build -

http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q...r/100_0774.jpg
http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q...r/100_0766.jpg
http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q...r/100_0396.jpg
http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q...r/100_0401.jpg
http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q...r/100_0411.jpg
http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q.../Frame/Top.jpg

The ride and handling of an IFS, when set up properly, is great.... On a fendered deuce comprimises have to be made in the placement and geometry of the upper a-arms... They still work and ride good, but not as good as on a non-fendered car where the suspension can be designed to work to it's full potential.

Heidt's, Kugel, and a number of other companies have some very well planned out IFS's for a deuce, and many other cars as well. I did a '28 roadster on deuce rails a number of years back, all Kugel front and rear suspension, thing handles like a slot car!!!! We built the car with a lot of race car pieces and not necessarily a lot of the "niceties" that most think a Hot Rod must have... IE, a lot of engine setback, front and mid plates instead of rubber mounts for the engine and trans. Powered it with a 408 Windsor and a 5 speed. The car is an absolute blast to drive!!!!----and the purists hate it!!!!!:LOL: :LOL:

As for adjustability, it's all in favor of the IFS and IRS there.... Add some front and rear sway bars with adjustable end links, double adjustable coilover shocks, even the "good stuff" with the remote reservoirs for the shocks. Play with the mount locations and use longer coilovers and springs for more travel, progressive rate springs.... When you do all this, sharpen up your math and geometry to figure the instant centers, roll centers, bump steer, weight transfer...Oh yeah, and when you're building and tuning have a set of 4 wheel electronic scales.... You can tweak the suspension around and play with shock and spring rates to make the car do whatever you want it to do...

Not that it matters, but someplace on my list of things to do is a quick change IRS, complete with inboard disc brakes.....then I can play with gear ratios all day long, too!!!!!!!!:LOL: :LOL: :LOL:

Speedy, thanks for the advice. If you care to drop me a PM with your name, address and phone number, I'll look you up the next time I come over to the other coast.

Dave, in case you can't tell be now, I'm not a 'purists', they are on the other side of the fence.......LOL, sorry again Deuce.

Back in the '90s I played with cars that required a good understanding of instant centers, roll centers, weight transfer, etc. Even had a set of 4 digital scales to put the car on to measure the individual corner weights. Those cars were a little different though. I'll attempt to post a couple of pics.

Attachment 32283

Attachment 32284

Attachment 32285

I'll bet that wasn't what you expected.............LOL
I used to race 1/10th and 1/8th scale radio controlled race cars all over the southeast. This one is what we called a 'concrete oval' (Nascar style) 1/10th scale car. I'm sure some of you car nuts did the same thing at one time or another.

Mike

Build one like the red roadster, it's perfect!

IFS look like ass on any 32.

JMO

I never did the RC cars much Mike, did play with the airplanes for a while....
Looks like some way kewl RC stuff there.... I got to the point I had tooooooo many hobbies, had to give some up...RC's, Jet Boats, and Sprint Cars were the first to go--man, did that help the budget!!!!!

Anyway, I've really grown to like building with the scales handy...Takes a lot of the guesswork out of the build for positioning components, etc. The cheapest horsepower is still lightening the car, 100 pounds = 1/10 second....

Well, I'm certainly no purist. Did the resto thing for a number of years and chose to get out of it... I much prefer the free wheeling creativity of Hot Rodding, so many more options.... Kind of got out of the deuces and 33-34's about 10 years back cuz there was just so dang many of them!!!! Think I'd get bored to tears if that was all I built!

Anyway, though most will tell you differently, have fun with your build!!!! Do what you like rather just then what the majority think the car should have.... I do agree that the Wescott's are the best bodies, but a bit of fabricating a steel cage, and working the 'glass shell can still yield a high quality body..... Is it better to buy it or build it??? Dunno, I like building all mine, and doing a bit of restyling on the body to make it a bit unique. If the original deuce was perfect, then I guess Ford would still be building 'em just like they were!!!!!!

Always good to meet up with somebody else who isn't doomed to build one that is "just like everybody else's". Which instantly brings to mind the engine and drivetrain...maybe a V-10 and a 5 speed?????

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Originally Posted by rspears

I am torn right now between the N&N Roller and buying an existing car in the area - think the already built car is the smart way to go, but concerned that whereever I go it's always, "OK, you bought Joe's car.", or "You have really changed Joe's car - liked it better before...." From what I have heard unless you go out of the area to buy the original builder's ID is firmly engrained in people's minds, [

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In your case rspears ...

I would consider buying someone else's car. In respears situation ... just go to one of the bigger events ( the NSRA Nationals, Shades of the Past in Pigeon Forge or a event similar ) and look at, drive and then " bargain shop " a little. At the Shades of the Past event

http://www.shadesofthepast.com/

They have a separate show on Saturday for the 1932 Fords. There are usually 125 to 150 Deuces in one area. As a general rule, many have for sale signs in them. They come from all over to be in this event.

Some folks just like building them and then sell them. Others, after getting one, decides that the little 32's do not ride like they want, or they just want something else. Sometimes, for some folks ... the thrill is in the chase and once they have the 32 ... they are ready for a Corvette or their next " dream car ". This creates a lot of the 32's being there for sale. You can buy one, take it back to your area and then it is not " so and so's old car " :D
This also allows you to be riding ... 2 or 3 years sooner. After you get your new 32 back home and had it for awhile, you may decide that 32's are not for you. Or you may decide this is what you really, really want ... and then decide to build your own version. Either way, you can come out ahead.

If you the type fellow who has been into a lot of different hobbies in the past 10 years or so ... I strongly suggest you buy a car ... to figure out if this is what you really want. You know you can buy a 32 ... a LOT cheaper than building one ... :whacked:

Deuce

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You know you can buy a 32 ... a LOT cheaper than building one ... :whacked:

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Man, have you got that right . . .

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Originally Posted by Henry Rifle

Man, have you got that right . . .

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Iceburgh has over 52 in his ... and a bunch of time.
I imagine you are upside down too ... in yours.
I KNOW ... I am way upside down in mine :o

I have a guy I know who is at 70 grand with a fiberglass 32 Vicky and he still needs wiring and upholstery. It's nice but nowhere near worth the $$$ invested. He has a good bit of paid labor rate in his Vicky so he has that added expense.

If you look around, especially closer to the end of the rod season ... you can buy a decent fiberglass hiboy 32 roadster or 3W for less than 30 grand. And then you are riding ... not spending money on a long term project.

http://www.carnut.com/show/04/okc/nat217.jpg

Reproduction plastic body, no $ 500 windshield frame, Not much chrome, painted rims with hub caps , no fenders or expensive 32 pieces ... just a real ... fun ... little coupe :D

Regardless, I would rather build one than buy one.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Mike52

Now that we've covered the very basics like, it's going to cost twice as much as estimated, take twice as long as anticipated, and steel or 'glass, it's time to ask more questions. We touched on this very briefly, well as least Deuce touched on it, let's talk about front suspensions.

I've noticed the cost of roller chassis are roughly the same with straight axle set-ups or IFS. Personally, I like the look of the more modern IFS. What are the pros and cons of these front suspensions on a set of Deuce rails, the difference in ride quality, the ability to set or adjust ride height, ability to make changes to adjust for ride quality, etc?

Mike

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Personally, I do not like the looks of a hiboy with IFS unless it has a pinched frame. IMO, they look clunky. With fenders it doesn't matter. I built my deuce with a pinched frame utilizing a Heidt stainless steel Superide IFS because I was going for a modern smoothie California style. As far as ride goes, I don't think it matters much. With a short wheel base, you will get a somewhat choppy ride either way. You do have more adjustability with the IFS because you can adjust the shock rebound and adjust the coilovers for ride height. I do like the rack and pinion steering. Essentially, it comes down to a matter of taste and the style of the car you want.

Iceburgh has over 52 in his ... and a bunch of time.

If I remember correctly, $13k was for paint, and I've got plenty of time.

I have a guy I know who is at 70 grand with a fiberglass 32 Vicky and he still needs wiring and upholstery.

I'm sure the amount of money you're willing to spend can be related to all the 'bling' you desire and having someone else turn the wrenches, but as with any hobby, you can spend as much as you want or as little as you need to. Some of us prefer the challenge of the build process, the learning experience that comes with it, and the satisfaction in knowing that you built it yourself. I'm not knocking those that prefer to stroke a check and ride off into the sunset, but I like knowing my rides inside and out, it makes me appreciate them a lot more.

Lynn, thanks for your opinion. Can you post a few pics of your Deuce or give me a link to pics that are already posted?

Mike

Thanks, Mike. Click on the link beneath my signature.

Lynn, you've got a great looking coupe, I see some things on your car that I'd like to ask about, would it be OK if I asked some questions thru the Private Messages?

Thanks,
Mike

Absolutely!

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Originally Posted by Deuce

Get out your checkbook ... then ...

1) buy a Wescott 32 3W body
2) buy a So-Cal frame or TCI chassis stage III
3) buy a new crate engine and transmission.
4) buy a Walker radiator
5) buy a Vintage Air Generation II mini air unit
6) Buy a Tea's seat
7) buy a wiring kit from Ron Francis

The above are some of the best known suppliers in the street rod world ... and have been so for a good while. They have earned a good reputation by selling quality parts.

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They may have the name recognition, but I would not buy a So-Cal frame again. Mine was too narrow in the back for a stock tank or spreader bar; the driveshaft hits a crossmember on some bumps; even though it has a dropout trans mount you can't pull the 4-speed trans with the motor in place because of another crossmember; and with a manual trans the brake pedal hit the clutch throwout arm. I wasn't very impressed by those flaws, and they wouldn't respond to my complaints at all. That's just my story; others may have had more positive experiences.

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Originally Posted by new 32 roadster

I would not buy a So-Cal frame again. Mine was too narrow in the back for a stock tank or spreader bar.

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It is a fairly well known FACT that most reproduction 1932 Ford frames are purposely built a little more narrow than what Henry Ford did. :) The reproduction fiberglass bodies are thicker in the rocker area and have trouble getting on a dead on original frame. TCI frames have the same issue. It is way easier to make a chassis a little more narrow ( user friendly ) than dead on.

That's why I have a copy of the original Ford 32 Frame blueprint ... and ... always use a original set of rails in a frame jig. :D

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Just another two cents worth. I "refurbished" a '47 Ford Convertible but did not respect the weak transmission. I handpainted a very solid '31 Fordor with a brush but did not realize the eventual value of the car. I went through many "family cars", mostly station wagons while the kids were young and then I did buy and fix a running but incorrectly assembled Sand Rover dune buggy and went through several VW engines and then went through four engines in a '66 Beetle (one with a Judson supercharger on the street) then restored a MG midget from a hulk with a tree growing up through it, all the while keeping track of the early Deuce 'glass replicas hoping some day to have a Deuce roadster but it was always out of the economic picture so I decided that it would be cheaper to build a '29 and chose the Bebops with a one-piece floor-fender unit. Anyway based on a very precise Brookville frame it was a real JOY so assemble the dropped axle front end and paint the frame and then get the fittings welded onto a Maverick rear and at that point it did seem that it would be cheap to finish when I found a velour seat from a Dodge van that fits exactly for only $15! I only spent about $1500 on the engine, another $1400 on a beefed up 700R4 and $650 to refit the ring and pinion and bearings in the Maverick rear. Paint was only $1800 but needs touchup. Then the nitty gritty problems started to show up with details. I was comforted by IC2 who admitted he had multiples of items which he tried and my shop is accumulating multiple useless items that did not work out. The point is that if you shop around for the paint job you should be able to do it for $2000 or less but the details can be overwhelming. At present I am starting to grit my teeth and accept the challenge that Bob has mentioned: barring a health problem I am going to finish this project!!!!!! I thought I had enough experience with previous projects to attempt a complete build but I never imagined all the detailed problems. In particular if you repair or restore a production model you just buy parts and bolt them on. When you build a 'glass car almost every piece has to be figured out in your head and hand fitted, usually with a rat tail file! The constant engineering of smaller parts has made me weary several times, BUT I will finsh this project as long as my health permits! Sooo you can do it, it will take longer than you think and it will cost a lot more than you think BUT the main thing is to have the mental tenacity to get past one small bracket design after another and another. I think I am past most of these bracket design problems and I am learning to depend more and more on purchas of stuff that is engineered by the aftermarket folks but eventually you have to make some stuff fit on your own or get a pro to do it. So far the only stuff I have farmed out was the paint, the ring-and-pinion change in the rear and three small welding jobs by a local guy who has a roving welding truck. The main thing I am saying here is that at some point you either have to farm out some of the job OR be able to make/adapt your own brackets and nitty gritty fitting of stuff that "almost fits". The work that Ken Sturm shows is out of this world in complexity and high quality workmanship, but when you sit in yout shop/garage and just have to visualize a bracket for some dingus just bear down and think/visualize how to do it the simplest practical way and if you can buy an adapter that will help but eventually some stuff has to be fabricated! You can do it, but be prepared to make many, many adaptations. Good Luck, I wish I could afford a Deuce but my job is to get this roadster finished. Just to stir the pot, take a look at the Bebops 3W coupe, I think their quality is average but I have found their phone support to be friendly and helpful.

Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/teen rodder

Mike.... I build all of my cars and or trucks. The '32 is over the top in some areas but I knew that going in. The only thing I did not do on the '32 is the flames and the mural on the back.
One thing I think we have all agreed on in this thread is to each their own.
I have a entertainment system in my car I am sure Deuce would never ever consider but that is what make the world go around

Quote:

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Originally Posted by iceburgh

One thing I think we have all agreed on in this thread is to each their own.
I have a entertainment system in my car I am sure Deuce would never ever consider
but that is what make the world go around

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:D :D

In my old roadster ... with the wind noise
You could never hear it anyway. :LOL:

I am actually shopping for a nice sound system for the 3W.
I want something with the XM type radio and a multi-disc CD player. I need one that installs remote and has a little remote control to work it, as I do not want to hang it where it can be seen.

http://hotrodders.com/journal_photos...2189385781.jpg

I just had the dash and all the garnish moldings woodgrained by Bob Kennedy of Whittier California.

Unfortunately ... I am not very knowledgeable about all the XM, CD and remote stuff but will have to rely on someone else more knowledgeable than myself to help make the selection. :eek: I do not need or want a big ... bump, bump, bump system. Just a decent, clean sound with decent reception and the ability to hold 3 or 4 CDs.

Is yours mounted remotely ??

.

Okay Mike, before you pull the trigger on that glass body here's one more chance to "get your head right".............. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...EF:MOTORS:1123

:3dSMILE: :3dSMILE:

Bob, your timing is impeccable. I appreciate that you are looking out for me. Just last night I read an article in one of the rodder magazines about Walden's Brookville chop jobs. Hey, it’s only about $14k more that the standard Brookville Deuce, what a bargain. This one is more in Deuce’s territory, he’s a steel fanatic, he can add another one to his collection when he’s finished with the current coupe. I think I’ll stick to a ‘glass car for my first project, I wouldn’t feel as bad butchering a $9k ‘glass body as I would a $38k steelie :whacked: .

Mike

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Mike52

This one is more in Deuce’s territory, he’s a steel fanatic, he can add another one to his collection when he’s finished with the current coupe.

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:)

I do not need another 3W ... have one
got a roadster also ...

Might be interested in a Victoria :D

I was at Bobby's shop party the Friday night of the LA Roadster show - and that car is so nice Randy....the F&F is impeccable. I took about 50 pics of it.

At one point, I just say on the edge of the table nearby and stared at it.

Mike -

Are you totally set on buying a body and chassis from the same people? Mixing resin and laying up a body is a pretty dissimilar skill set from TIG welding and geometric suspension theory.....

I have a secret audio system that works from a remote. You cant see it from inside. However you can see it in the trunk.
Secret audio is a good unit and small enough to be hidden any place