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Thread: Best ways/locat to ground
          
   
   

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  1. #1
    bucs012 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Best ways/locat to ground

     



    I want to make sure my 32 is grounded well.

    Please tell me what should be used to ground it- What type of strap and where to buy it. Also, should I have one that grounds the engine to the frame and then one that grounds the Fiberglass body to the frame?

    Thanks.
    32 Ford
    Des Moines, Iowa
    Website- http://s104.photobucket.com/albums/m...012/32%20Ford/

  2. #2
    34_40's Avatar
    34_40 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Quote Originally Posted by bucs012
    I want to make sure my 32 is grounded well.

    Please tell me what should be used to ground it- What type of strap and where to buy it. Also, should I have one that grounds the engine to the frame and then one that grounds the Fiberglass body to the frame?

    Thanks.
    Since fiberglas is not a conducter there isn't any point unless your talking about a metal frame inside the body, then yes! add a ground strap/wire. Same as the engine block, add a ground strap/wire to make a good circuit. Find a topic (post) called Electricals Phew, it's got a lot of good discussions about wiring and manufacturers and such. Hope it helps!

  3. #3
    techinspector1's Avatar
    techinspector1 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Autozone has a universal ground strap for cheap that will work fine from motor to frame.....
    http://www.autozone.com/R,89628/stor...ductDetail.htm
    For underdash, I didn't have a central metal mount for the gauges, switches, etc., so I went down to the local metal salvage yard and picked up a solid brass bar, 1/2" X 1" X 6". I drilled and tapped it for screws, mounted it under the dash and connected a 10 ga wire from it to the frame. Then it was a simple matter to tag up ground lugs from instruments and switches to the brass bar and much less wiring mess. Doing the same thing at the back of the car can clean up the whole thing. 10 ga wire with crimp on lugs will work fine for brass bar to frame. Lesser wire gauge, such as 12 ga will work fine from tail light/brake light to bar. Coat the lug connections with RTV to keep moisture out. Where you attach lugs to the frame, sand off a bright spot, attach the lug, then coat the whole connection with RTV.
    PLANET EARTH, INSANE ASYLUM FOR THE UNIVERSE.

  4. #4
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    Another option that I like for the RTV is dielectric grease,I use it at every connection electrical related.I use it very liberally ,smear it on thick!!!!!!!!
    The brass bar is a great Idea and will work very well.
    Its gunna take longer than u thought and its gunna cost more too(plan ahead!)

  5. #5
    Don Shillady's Avatar
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    Just some random comments here. Tech1, that brass bar idea is very good and maybe I can still clean up my mess under the dash. I do have a 1" square tubing framework inside my fiberglass body and I have a short length of "00" gauge welding cable with brass terminals pressed onto the ends connecting an engine-to-transmission bolt to the framework. On the other side of the frame I have a long length of "00" gauge welding cable from the (-) battery forward to another engine bolt on the transmission mount. I am commenting on this because I have another "00" gauge welder cable from the (+) battery terminal on the right frame rail to the starter and my TPI guru told me something I really do not believe? He said a smaller gauge wire to the starter would be better since my large gauge wire would soak up too many electrons, too much amperage bleeding into the large wire? I know about what is called "fanout" limit of current from power supplies in electronic circuits for mineature electronics but I wonder if I have a cable which is too large for the starter from the battery? I was trying to just make a really good connection but I can see on the "water flow" model of elctrical current that a large cable could soak up a lot of electrons. Is my cable to the starter too large (gauge too low)? The cable is pretty long and I am just trying to make sure I get good amperage to the starter. Anyway on the ground connection I have been using the upper bolts on my door hinges on the inside which have long threaded sections to attach my ground wires from several instruments and that keeps the wires up high out of sight but not as neat as what Tech1 suggested, I will rethink that.

    Don Shillady
    Retired Scientist/teen rodder
    Last edited by Don Shillady; 10-07-2009 at 07:16 PM.

  6. #6
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    Don, I have never heard of "soaking up too much electrons". Larger gauge wire offers less resistance to current flow and thus is not prone to over heating. A good strong battery will not see that much impedance in your circuit and you should not have starting problems on hot summer days.
    Ken Thomas
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