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Thread: A little help
          
   
   

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  1. #1
    John Palmer is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Santa Ana
    Car Year, Make, Model: '32 High Boy, '60 VW, Teardrop Trailers
    Posts
    355

    What Speedy said, plus I would add a "keyed" battery disconnect switch for working convience and security. Make sure you also run a ground strap from the engine back to the frame.

  2. #2
    R Pope is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Eston
    Posts
    2,270

    I've said this before, I think, but anyway, I put a Ford solenoid right beside the battery, and a cable from it to the starter. A smaller wire then powers the rest of the car. That way, the big cable is only live when cranking, much safer, and harder for the lowlifes to find a live connection and hotwire it, especially when you aren't running a hood.

  3. #3
    iceburgh's Avatar
    iceburgh is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    new bloomfield
    Posts
    356

    I placed the batter y just behind the seat. Ran the negative to the frame and then drilled 2 holes in the frame. One at the top near the battery and the other near the starter. Ran the + cable to a disconnect then through the frame to the starter.

  4. #4
    rumrumm's Avatar
    rumrumm is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Macomb
    Car Year, Make, Model: '32 Ford 3W Coupe, 383 sbc
    Posts
    1,593

    I ran the cables out the passenger side of the trunk, the - cable was grounded to a frame bolt while the + cable went to a junction box (so it could be jumped from underneath if necessary) and then on to the starter. The junction box came from a 2005 Silverado.
    Attached Images


    Lynn
    '32 3W

    There's no 12 step program for stupid!

    http://photo.net/photos/Lynn%20Johanson

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