Thread: soft tops for 32 roadsters ....links please

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got my 32 ford and a so cal windshield im looking for a real nice top for it with a good stance ....please send pics and links if available .....and comments on ones you know about . thanks so much im not having great luck with my search

Originally Posted by godspeed32

got my 32 ford and a so cal windshield im looking for a real nice top for it with a good stance ....please send pics and links if available .....and comments on ones you know about . thanks so much im not having great luck with my search

Look up Sid Cheevers, Bop Top,

You can spend less, but you can't buy a better 32 roadster top in my opinion. I looked a long time, checked examples on many cars at the LA Roadster Show over several years and never found a nicer top. Most Bop Tops are covered in Hartz Stay Fast cloth, but I ordered mine two years ago in Vinyl and have been very happy.

Check out their web site, Sid was also very helpful prior to and after the sale.

thanks i seen those and look nice but looks a little funny the way it fits on so cal shield . but maybe the answer anyway

There are (3) of the tops that I considered. I would rank the Rod Top as #1 for fit, finish and engineering but it is the most expensive. #2 would be the Topster or Topster II, it breaks down to the smallest size for travel and is the most reasonable of the three but you have to provide the fabric. The Bopster is the most popular of the three by far and a nice top and Sid provides the most assistance to get it in place. I choose the Topster II and I modified it to mount much like the custom body mount kit that Rod Top has available. I also used detent pins on the dissambly joints of theframe so it can be removed and replaced as a unit when at home with a garage.

Here's a couple shots of the Lebaron-Bonney do it yourself top kit.
Stock or a 2" chopped windshield and it's not hard to set it up for a 3" chop.

Nice part about the L-B top is that it has a big back window area that unsnaps and you have lots of airflow in the summer and still have shade.

No sewing required at your end, just a lot of double checking if you've never done one.
All that's really required is tacking/stapling and some really careful cutting with a new single edge razor.
Don't use a box cutter/razor knife, a blade is way more controllable.

I like the L-B's traditionally oriented not so "Street-Roddy" look better than the others.

You also have some options as far as "wedge" goes as well as how high you want it over your head.
A couple of simple changes of the oak bow heights in the middle and back make a big difference in looks as well as how well the top performs at highway speeds.

It's an easy project that a careful and slow Noob can do in about ten hours.
The next one takes 3-4 hours if you have help.


32 exterior 2" chopped stock style windshield.





32 top interior shot with the top sitting on a 32 frame, 31 A roadster



29 A exterior stock height.

I have a Chavers Bop Top on my 32. Definately the priciest but IMO- best looking for my style car.

thanks for the replys ! im really steering towards the bop top ......ove course very pricey it is what i like ....lol

Originally Posted by Steves32

I have a Chavers Bop Top on my 32. Definately the priciest but IMO- best looking for my style car.

Chavers makes nice tops and I like the "store it away" approach.
Much better looking than a folded down top without boot.

I haven't seen one quite like this one though.
I don't want to be insulting here, but it looks like an umbrella in some respects and takes away from the overall good looks of what seems to be a well built car with the right stuff in the right place.

Nice part about the L-B top is the rear window snaps open and hangs up under the top straps.
Makes for a nice breeze mit shade in good weather.

Far as I know the street rod top manufacturers don't have an option for that.

It makes a lot bigger difference than most realize.

Originally Posted by C9x

Here's a couple shots of the Lebaron-Bonney do it yourself top kit.
Stock or a 2" chopped windshield and it's not hard to set it up for a 3" chop.

Nice part about the L-B top is that it has a big back window area that unsnaps and you have lots of airflow in the summer and still have shade.

No sewing required at your end, just a lot of double checking if you've never done one.
All that's really required is tacking/stapling and some really careful cutting with a new single edge razor.
Don't use a box cutter/razor knife, a blade is way more controllable.

I like the L-B's traditionally oriented not so "Street-Roddy" look better than the others.



You also have some options as far as "wedge" goes as well as how high you want it over your head.
A couple of simple changes of the oak bow heights in the middle and back make a big difference in looks as well as how well the top performs at highway speeds.

It's an easy project that a careful and slow Noob can do in about ten hours.
The next one takes 3-4 hours if you have help.


32 exterior 2" chopped stock style windshield.





32 top interior shot with the top sitting on a 32 frame, 31 A roadster



29 A exterior stock height.

C9 I really like the side profile as well as the overall look of your top on the 32.
Are your top irons stock 32's or the chopped ones that Lebaron Bonney sells?
I have some stock 32 top irons and a 2"chopped windshield and would like to use my top irons and a LB top kit, and am wondering if their kit will work with out chopping the top irons, as I am not confident that I can chop them and end up with a good looking top and one that will still fold.
I would like to end up with a profile and overall look as you have.
HemiDuece

Pretty sure the top irons & oak bows are L-B's from Wescott.

Girtz? I think it is makes them for everybody.
Last couple of years L-B has had the best prices.

The 32's top irons are for the chopped 2" windshield.
Nice part about that is, you can alter the top height/wedge by altering placement of the oak bows on the irons.

Do the preliminary install of the top irons:

Finish the oak bows with a traditional marine varnish - best imo - or poly.

Hold the oak bows where you think they look good.

Wrap the oak bows with masking tape.

Install the oak bows onto the top irons with black electricians tape. (The masking tape prevents black stuff from bleeding onto the oak bows.)

String masking tape over the bows and down so as to get an idea of the top's line.

Pull the masking tape from the oak bows, leave the oak bows on and drive the car for awhile.
That'll give you an indication as to difficulty of ingress-egress.

More than likey no changes will be required, but you will notice that you have to modify your method of getting in and out of the car.

The pic below shows the masking tape bit to check design/style/flow lines

Post deleted by Joeybsyc

I looked at them all, and decided there was no comparison to the Bop Top by Sid Chavers... the flowing lines of the top actually make the car look BETTER with the top on than without. While there may be other high quality, well built tops on the market, none of them nail the look and provide the perfect side profile the Bop Top does. Just my opinion of course, but I wouldn't even consider anything else. As for how it fits along the windshield, that's actually one of the coolest parts IMO, as it give you a little "visor" over the top of the windshield frame and really helps block the glare when you're driving in the blazing sun, plus it gives it a mean look. i was upset over the price when I was ordering it, but now when i see all the homemade and "other brand" tops at shows alongside cars with real Bop Tops, they just aint gettin' it done. It was the best 2500 I ever spent.

was it a tough top to install ?? and how big is it when uninstralled can it fit in trunk??

Installation wasn't bad at all.. if you have the tabs in your 1/4 panels already its REALLY easy, as that was the only semi-difficult part of the process for me. It's detailed pretty decently in another thread I think, as I took several pics when i was doing it. I have zero uphulstery experience, and I was able to attach the fabric to the wooden header without a problem, everything is marked and laid out for you. (so easy a caveman could do it! ) As for storing it in the trunk... that ain't happening with my car, because my fuel tank is in the trunk and takes up too much room. it would un-install easily though, as the tubing simply slides together with snap connectors, and the fabric unsnaps at the back, then is rolled up on the header bow it is attached to. The header is obviously as wide as the top of the windshield, so it should be pretty easy to tell if you have adequate trunk space to store the top. (about 6 feet I think) I'll be perfectly honest with you though, i NEVER take mine of now, and if I do, I will take it off as a unit, and sit it on the garage floor assembled. Seems much easier than dismantling the whole thing anyhow.

yes my car has the tabs so it maybe easier then i think