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Thread: 32 Ford Roadster Windshield Finger Pulls
          
   
   

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  1. #1
    C9x's Avatar
    C9x
    C9x is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: Deuce Highboy roadster
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    Not a problem.

    Thanks . . . and I always like to learn something new....
    C9

  2. #2
    Bob Parmenter's Avatar
    Bob Parmenter is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 32, 40 Fords,
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    No offense taken Denny, I only do it to help. But I also think that you're completely clueless that that kind of comment it what's driven several people off this site. Spare the excuses, I've already heard them.
    Your Uncle Bob, Senior Geezer Curmudgeon

    It's much easier to promise someone a "free" ride on the wagon than to urge them to pull it.

    Luck occurs when preparation and opportunity converge.

  3. #3
    Don Shillady's Avatar
    Don Shillady is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 29 fendered roadster
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    Smile

     



    DennyW, maybe smart guys are sensitive sometimes. I thought this might be a problem but just thought Bob's picture slightly lighter. In my career I usually grooved in on some fundamental detail but often did not stay up with the latest technology. This is because after many stages of graphics evolution with maybe each stage of a year or so whatever hotshot graphics I used before would go out of date. I originally spent a lot of time on CalComp flat bed graphics plotters but then PC software came out so fast I did not keep up. So DennyW, Bob and C9X are certainly ahead of me on the PC graphics. Did you all use "Photoshop"? I only have PAINT so far and Denny certainly is a pro with the color shading and as I said I still have the neat maroon '29 Denny shaded in from a white picture, neat stuff, even removing one of the passengers. I have already learned and used the trick DennyW showed on how to merge several pictures into one and to keep Denny happy I am attaching one with five (5) pictures merged using the method he showed, they are pictures of the top four (highest occupied energy) electronic orbitals of formaldehyde. This may/may not be the cover of our new book since the cover art selection is sort of a committee process and anytime you get three people on a committee there are usually seven opinions! Just for the record, I am using an early Canon Power Shot A20 camera with only 2.1 Megapixels (which we won from a Coke can!) and I usually just resize the picture by 50%x50% to make it into the Forum limit but I don't know if all the pixels are resized or maybe there are only 1/4 the number of pixels. I am unfamiliar with this camera (which is my son's since he won it) and use the "auto flash" which doesn't always work. I wish I were using my old 35mm with all manual settings! Anyway in the garage with only a fluorescent overhead the pictures come out dark so I need to either get Photoshop and/or learn how to use some sort of manual settings on the camera. I was just so excited to get the windshield on that I wanted to take a picture as my first advancement on the car in over a year but it came out too dark. So here is the question: tell me what software to get to lighten up dark pictures.

    Now, for C9X, I talked with a guy named "Dale" at Brookville who occasionaly installs windshields on their steel '29 roadsters. He says there should be a lip on the inside of the '29 stanchions but in fact I have official Brookville stainless stanchions (2" chopped) and they have no such lip, perhaps because they are not replicas but just "hot rod" parts? Anyway Dale suggested and it seems reasonable to add a tab to the bottom of the inside of each stanchion with two small bolts or machine screws as a fix to keep the windshield from swinging in. I can get some scrap stainless but cannot imagine how to polish it so I will probably use flat steel and paint the tabs body color.

    I will try to answer any question on the theory of electronic structure if anyone asks (hah!) but you guys are the experts in PC graphics and building cars, I am the amateur here and need advice from several sources, so let us just stay calm and swap useful info. Whatever I know about cars is mostly useless stuff on early Fords, VWs and MGs so I am really groping when it comes to the SBC drive line and I am sorry to say that I will need more advice and hope not to become a pest any more than necessary.

    Don Shillady
    Retired Scientist/teen rodder
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  4. #4
    Don Shillady's Avatar
    Don Shillady is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    DennyW, That's great, now you can even see a small part of my temporary steering column just behind the dipstick as well as my new tilt column hanging on the left curing like a ham. When I got the tilt column painted a second time after scratching it up with the mockup I decided to make sure the paint thoroughly cured in the hot garage over the summer while I mess around with the old column for the mockup. I wasted $60 on the first Camaro column but with paint the tilt column is now over $400 so I will try to cut my losses using the Camaro column for the setup. So maybe you can e-mail your version of this picture to me and tell us the name of the programs you have used? (quantummechanicsllc@msn.com).

    Don Shillady
    Retired Scientist/teen rodder

  5. #5
    Don Shillady's Avatar
    Don Shillady is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Hi, I am asking this question in two threads to try to get an answer. Since the last nice pictures I have drilled holes in the stanchions for windwing clamps and find that is just one more case of messing around to get it to work. I have windwings cut from laminated safety glass and find the rubber pads I got from Brattons are too thick. I am considering using the rubberized cloth that came with the clamps on one side with the thinner of the two rubber pads on the other sides. Can you make any comments about mounting the windwings?

    Don Shillady
    Retired Scientist/teen rodder

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