Thread: Deuce Battery Placement

Tweet

Let's start with the trans cooler. Don't know what kind of rad you're using, if it has the cooler built in why not use that. Plumb it just like an oem application. Some folks will poo-poo this kind of setup, but then drive one just like it everyday with their civilian car. If you've got adequate cooling system it's not that much of an extra burden unless you're planning on a lot of hard duty. The alternative is a "remote" cooler which actually mounts closer to the trans. Now this may end up being in the same spot you're thinking of for the batt, but we'll address that later. Here's just one possibility; http://www.gottashow.com/trans_cooler_kits.php. If you're not into the braided line thing and are handy with making up your own plumbing, the same cooler unit with out the hose/fittings can be bought from B&M through Jegs or Summit for around $60. This is usually mounted to brackets attached to the X member near the trans. I have seen them with a simple folded aluminum sheet "scoop" fabbed to direct more air to the fins. It kind of depends on how your under carriage is configured as to whether that's necessary or not.

As for the batt, I usually mount them in the forward, passenger side of the trunk. If you've put in a bulkhead between the interior and the trunk, then you decide which side of the bulkhead works best for how you intend to use the car. Some folks don't like putting it in the forward part of the trunk because they're concerned about it going dead at the same time you've got a load of junk back there, like the three suit cases for your wife, and the lunch sack for you. The odds of that happening aren't real big unless Murphy is one of your dependants. I personally think that under the floor is actually more inconvenient, and makes carpeting more difficult, not to mention the amount of space it takes, usually right where the exhaust would like to go. Now, size can be another issue. Again, my preference, I like the Odyssey battery; http://www.odysseybatteries.com/applications/auto.htm I've had good service from the 925, they're about 7" wide, 6 5/8" long, and just over 6" high. They're not as prone to short life as the gell cell (such as Optima) batts that don't take well to repeated drain down and recharge cycles.

A good idea is to have a HD battery cutoff switch, they come with both a bypass circuit that lets a small amount of current by for clock or computer use, or not. Also, if you've got power door and/or trunk latches, and maybe windows, it's a good idea to also mount terminal lugs inline on both ground and power to an external place, through the floor, in a fender well, wherever, just in case the batt does die when everything is locked up, you can clip on a jumper batt and at least get it open.

If you really want a below the floor batt, and conventional size, any of the typical parts suppliers have a variety of box choices in either steel or stainless, fixed or drop down; Speedway, Parr Automotive, Yogis, Yearwood are just a few.