Okay, that helps. If you're to keep on theme, then you'll want a smooth looking column and column drop (depending on how you configure your dash. While factory takeouts are popular with some guys, they tend to look kind of clunky in a small cabined coupe like yours, especially the ones with a hurking ignition switch hanging off the side. I personally like the '67 GM midsize (Chevelle, Cutlass, etc.) tilt columns. If a floor shift model isn't available, I take a column shift version and cut off the shifter lump and mold it smooth. My main motivation is the nicely shaped "bowl" under the wheel. It's smooth enough, but with enough heft, that it looks "right" in anything but a heavy traditional application. Unfortunately you compete with the muscle boys for these, so they've gotten pretty hard to find at a decent price anymore. Flamining river makes a repop of the shape, but so far I've only seen it with the shifter. Regardless, it's worth looking at the offerings from:
Flaming River www.flamingriver.com
Borgeson/Mullin www.borgeson.com
ididit www.ididit.com
You may see something there that suits your tastes for style, features, and material.

One way to mock up for length is to use a broomstick and either your choice of steering wheel, or one of similar configuration as concerns diameter and dish. Affix the wheel to the end of the stick and work out where it's comfortable for you as to rake, and distance from the door, dash, seat, knees, foot room, etc. Try to place it in the most comfortable position without thinking you can make up for mistakes with the tilt mechanism. This will give you how much of a column drop you need, where to cut the hole through the floor/firewall, and length. When you look at the sites you'll see the standard lengths available. With a rack and pinion, you can go a little longer than the other options, so you may be able to go with the 36", but check. It would be good to have a helper. As an early in the process alternative to the broom handle, especially for header clearance, I use a long 1/4" dowel so I don't have to drill as large a hole in the floor, so in the event I'm a little off on the first location I'm still withing the size of the final location hole if I have to move it a bit. Others may have an "easier" method, but this works for a "visual" guy like me.

Figuring the intermediate shaft length works similarly with a 5/8" dowel. Mock that up between the actual u-joints on the rack and bottom of the column. I like to plan for cutting off splined material from the shaft ends so that once installed there is more smooth shaft showing, and less splined area. Of course if you use a double D shaft that's not an issue.