Thread: 32 Grill Shell Mounting

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Greetings all. Can anyone tell me some details on what is the usual method for mounting a steel grill shell on an aluminum 32 radiator (AFCO). How about the spec height? I am running a 502 BB chevy with headers/side pipes and will not be using the hood pieces.

I have ~1 inch gaps between the shell bosses and the radiator shell mounting tabs. Lots of ways to go but I always respect and appreciate experience!

About the car. Cornhusker chassis w/ Heidts open wheel front IFS and IRS. Front rails pinched and bobbed. LoneStar classics glass body. Natural ZZ502 mildly modified/TH400 manual, reverse valve body. 9 inch ford rear with 3:50 posi. H295-15 in back and G205-15 up front. Compiling, modifying and assembling in my garage.

Thanks!

Hood fit on these cars is maybe the most important body panel alignment issue.

I do not use Afcos, so I am not sure how the tabs are configured. However, I would go ahead and drill the shell were the indentions are for mounting, and mock it up on the tabs using spacers to take up the excess play. Adjust the radiator support rods until the shell is parallel to the cowl vertically.

The next phase is setting the hood top(s) on and start getting the right hood line - running down hill from the cowl. Once you determine a height for the shell that leaves a nice hood line. you can move on to hanging the hood sides. You may have to reposition the lower mounts on the front crossmember to move the bottome of the shell out in order to fit the hood sides.

The most important thing is to mock up everything with just a few fasteners, clamps, etc. try to get everything looking good before you drill the final holes, mount the hood hinge assembly(if a 3 piece), lower latches(4 piece), etc.

Once you think it looks good, roll it outside and walk away 100' or so, then spin around and look at it - amazing how "shop blind" you can get looking at things from 8-10' away all the time.

Good luck.

I just reread your post - "hood pieces" - you aren't running sides with that exhaust, but no top either?

If no hood at all, then just make sure the shell is leaning forward at the same angle as the cowl - ( don't lay a '32 shell back, or stand it perfectly straight up and down on a car with a considerable forward rake..haha). Then just lay a length of wood or something from the center of the cowl to the center of the top of the shell. make sure it runs down hill, parallel to the belt line of the car preferably.

I have that exhaust on my Tudor - I have nearly burned myself several times - melted a couple sleeves on nylon jackets....haha. Man they look bitchin though.

Thanks SirSpeedy,

Yeah I am not planning on a hood right now but may in the future. I have a lot of money in the power plant, it looks nice, and I want to share it with others and keep an eye on it while I'm cruising! I have thought about using the top hood pieces. You reminded me to not over look that when setting the grill shell up.

I owned a '68 427 Vette a while back with side pipes. I just love the look. Burned the crapola out of my leg once; doubt I will again although I worry about rubber neckers reaching for the (HOT) shiny pipes!

I read a thread about radiators here. The AFCO is a beautiful aluminum product with furnace brazed tubes (no epoxy). And a tad less expensive than other brands. And it fit my pinched front end with no lower tank mods.

Regards, Kitz

I am running an AFCO in my 32. I had one problem. The tabs at the top that receive the radiator support rods from the firewall failed twice. The first time at the vertical bend (about 200 miles) and the second time at the tank (about 500 miles). I fabricated a stronger tab from square aluminum tubing and a friend welded it on (4,000 miles a still going). Given the description of your project I would consider Dan Fink or Hagen hood hinges. They attach to the cowel and to the grille shell or radiator and provide good support. When I was mounting my grille shell I had a devil of a time getting the tabs on the AFCO radiator to line up right. No matter how hard I tried I could not get the shell to properly cover the radiator. Finally I welded two lengths of 1/4" by 1" aluminum strap to the tabs. You can just see them in the attached photo. The AFCO radiator really cools the roadster. 180 on the road. In traffic the fan comes on at 210 and the temp drops back to 180 fast. I have the optional integral fan shroud. It is a very nice set up. I was going to pull the radiator this past winter and have it (the tanks and sides) and the fan shroud powder coated black. But spring is here all of the sudden and I guess I am going to put that project off.

Friend is running an AFCO in his Model A with a 32 grille shell. He had the same problem. His solution was to use the side metal from a scab stock tank. The bottoms are held in place by the original mount bolt and the tops are, well, I never looked that close.

So your problem is not unique.

Many thanks Bib,

I have had aluminum brakets fail before in other applications also. Usually they involve tempered aircraft Al that has been cold worked (bent) and subjected to cyclic loading and/or vibrations. Less so with weld zone failures although I have seen those too.

I am going to think about beefing up the existing mounting tab before it breaks.

If I don't run a hood for awhile I will also make some side braces to remove some loading off the radiator top rods brace.

Again thanks for head-up!

Kitz