Looking back over what I wrote, I see that the rear window install isn't too clear.

Installing the window in the back panel is one of the first things you do cuz the back panel goes on first.
The panel snaps onto snap receptacles s screwed into the cockpits oak rear rail.
The 'no-cutting' bit I alluded too was don't cut the material out of the window glass area until the install was finished or just about finished.
The window is held in by quite a few #6 (if I remember right) machine screws that thread into the outside frame.
They are screwed in from the inside.

Far as the window goes, you can order a glass window with the kit as I did, but I wouldn't do it again.
I would opt for cutting a rear window out of Lexan (brand name for Polycarbonate plastic) so as to cut some weight out of the back panel.
My glass window is hanging in there ok, but a lighter rear window assembly would be better.

You can get clear Polycarbonate at Home Depot and other like stores.
Use the same thickness Poly carb as the glass.

Do not use Plexiglass, it scratches up in no time and Polycarbonate doesn't.
I have a pair of windwings made from Polycarb and all I do to clean them is wash them when the car is washed.
They get mud and sand on them from time to time and they're still exceptionally clear.
Polycarb is used for aircraft canopies in jets as well as windshields in private planes.

Keep in mind that Polycarbonate - at least all the stuff I see nowadays - has an ultraviolet resistant coating so as to stop UV deterioration.
The coated side goes toward the sun.

As far as the allen head windshield post/top retaining bolts go, I meant to add, use a locknut to keep the retaining bolts in place.

Pay attention when you fold the top as well.
I don't do it often, most times as part of the top removal process, but I ended up with a 'too thick' package.
A friend of mine took one look, rearranged the padding a touch and it folded down much flatter.

Once the top is folded and if you run it at highway speeds you definitely need to tie the bows together and down to the body with something.
Leather straps and small hold-downs work well here. (Also available from Lebaron-Bonney.
If you don't tie it down, airflow will try to raise the top, then get inside and damage the top material as well as the top irons.
Sorta like popping the parachute before you're ready.

Haven't done this one, but it's easy to see the damage that could result from the top trying to pop open.

You'll also need a pair of the chrome plated pieces the top rests on when folded.

Note too that Lebaron-Bonney supplies two styles of top - besides all the material choices and colors.
One is called Gypsy style - that's the one that has the side panel go further forward and end in front of the angled legs that connect the rear oak bow to the cockpit rail.
The Gypsy style helps control air flow and is a help in colder weather.
The windwings in my 32 help keep cold air out of the cockpit as well.
A boon in low temps for a car that’s not much more than a rolling air leak.

I’ve run my 32 in several rainstorms and it does well even with no side windows/curtains.
A hard cross wind will blow rain inside, but it’s not bad.
Light to medium rainstorms are no problem - use Rain-X on the windshield, the little wipers on a chopped 2" w/s don’t do much.
Only problem on my 32 in heavy rain is a leak at the lower bottom w/s corners.
My fault cuz I cut the weather stripping at 90 degrees instead of 45.
Cut the stripping at a 45 or more so you can either overlap or butt glue the ends together.

Consider a heater as well.
I run one and running topless in cold weather it helps quite a bit.
Specially so for the passenger.