Thread: looking for help with 283 build ideas

Tweet

OK, if you are determined to keep the 283, here is some info that might help.

I briefly considered a 283 for my current project, but went in another direction. In the mid 80's, GM offered a high output 305 in some pickups. The heads on that motor were 58 cc chambers and had larger ports than the 283 heads you most likely have now. These heads would boost your compression (or not kill it like a large chamber). They also have hardened valve seats that you probably don't have now. I believe they also had 1.94 valves, but may be wrong. Somewhere in my shop I have a set of these and will try to get the casting number. If you could locate a set, it might save a little money if they just need freshening up.

Or, you could buy a set of aluminum aftermarket heads with small chambers. The aluminum heads would allow you run 10 to 1 or so compression which will help build power everywhere. If you could find a used set of Chevy ZZ4 aluminum heads, they had 58 cc chambers, too. Not considered a real high performance head, they will surely be an improvement over the old Powerpacks and have the old intake bolt pattern.

Don't go crazy with the cam. The small engine will loose torque quick down low. I was going to use something along the lines of the old Chevy 300 HP 327 cam. Pretty mild by today's standard, but has been known to work well in a 283. They were 194 at .050 if I remember correctly. I would seriously think about a retrofit roller cam. Less potential trouble with a flat tappet losing a lobe or two. Howard's had the least expensive roller cams that I found and you can use a regular distributor gear with most of their SBC street cams.

Forged pistons should not be required for a street motor if you keep it out of detonation.

I drove a 283 64 Chevy for many years. You will never get any real RPM out of the small 2-barrel. Get a regular Performer RPM manifold (high rise) and top it with a small 500 CFM or less 4 barrel.

Have the trans guy install the maximum number of clutches and steels in the clutch packs of the Powerglide. Some lower performance versions were shipped without full clutch packs since GM didn't feel they were needed for the application. GM put that trans behind bigger engines than yours and they are regularly used for drag racing (severely modified of course) so they can be made to survive. Look for an old 6 or 4 cylinder Powerglide (if you can be sure it's correct) and rob the governor out of it. Install that in your car and it will hold low gear longer, getting you into a higher torque part of your power band.

Run as good of a free flowing exhaust as you can stand looks wise. I would go 2 1/4 minimum. Don't let anyone tell you that you need backpressure. Ain't so. Don't bother with shorty headers, you won't get enough out of them to justify the work. If you don't run long tube headers stay with manifolds. If you do run long tubes, look for some with 1 1/2 tubes. They should help with low end torque on the small engine.

Oh, get an aftermarket distributor that can be easily tuned for advance curve. Makes a difference on any engine.

This is all the 283 specific info I have. Hope it helps.

Good luck. Still think you need a disguised 350, though.