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I'm about to freshen up the 350 in a street rod and the $120.00 lifters on ebay make a hydraulic roller cam affordable. Anyone tried them and what was the result? Early block so I need retro-fit lifters. Low $ build with cast pistons, vortec heads and I will use a mild cam.
You might get away with it, but common sense tells you that they were cast and machined offshore, where manufacturers don't particularly care how the part works out for you. I'd prefer my parts from a famous American company, where I pay a reasonable price for a reasonable product that has a better chance of living through the strain of actuating the valvetrain. My advice will always be to put off the purchase until you can save up enough to buy quality name-brand parts.
There is an old saying that rings true time after time.........."The sour taste of poor quality is remembered long after the sweet taste of low price is forgotten. "
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Welcome to CHR!
I agree 100% with Tech -
I have used Howard 91164N on 305, 350, and 400 builds and know they work. I just checked and they run about $400 but they will perform perfectly out of the box with no futzing necessary.
Remember too that you will need shorter push rods with these (7.200" - 7.300" versus the stock 7.800") - you need to measure using an adjustable push rod (Howard's 92129) on a couple to determine the length you should use. Push rods from any top tier (Comp, Lunati, Crower, Howard's) are fine but again, stay away from the off shore $29 a set as they lack the quality control that is (in my opinion) critical in the valve train.
Expensive roller rockers are not necessary. They look pretty but then get covered up and unless you're building a drag racer, they add very little to the performance. I typically use the stock style and they work fine for street builds. Make sure the balls are in good shape and start with a 1/2 turn pre-load from zero lash and finish with 3/4 turn.
What heads are you planning on using?
Let us know what you're building.
Regards,
Glenn
+1 on Howard's retro-fit roller stuff.
I used their cam and lifters (very mild specs) in a low mileage SBC crate motor just to get rid of the flat tappets. They had the cheapest "name brand" parts and they have worked great for 5 years.
Howard's retro fit cams can use the stock distributor gear also. Other brands can too, but you need to ask before you buy. Some require bronze or other types of distributor gear to prevent cam failure.
Keep in mind that you will also need some way to control cam end play when switching to a roller since there is no rearward thrust from the lifters to keep the cam from walking forward. This can be as cheap as a simple cam button or as expensive as a new timing cover with a roller bearing. End play needs to be set, too. You can't just drop in a button and call it good. If you just run a simple button, you probably should upgrade to heavy duty timing cover to prevent flexing.
Considering the global trade mentality that prevails now, there are a lot of name brand parts that come from China or India (or worse), but most of the big companies hold them to a higher standard of quality control. That makes a huge difference.
Those EBAY lifters are could very well be rejects from a run for an American company that they are trying to dump for a little profit. In the case of lifters, all it takes is one lifter to fail out of sixteen to leave you with a pile of junk. Not worth the risk, IMO.
I just took my old GM ones apart, soaked them in solvent, and reassembled them. worked great; they were sludgy but really didn't have any wear on them.
as long as they go back in the same boresQuote:
Originally Posted by falconvan
This is a retrofit - new roller cam and lifters so the old ones are not so important in this discussion. On that note, I have reused lifters in the distant past (when we had different oil) and had them work fine - even on a new cam. On a build today on a non-roller block, it has to be roller and new everything.
Thanks for the input. I better pass on the cheap lifters. I will get a hydraulic flat tappet kit from Elgin, Howards or Summit. Sure it will work fine.
IMO you're throwing your money away buying any flat tappet cam considering the lubrication qualities of the oils available today. Do yourself a favor and invest in a roller cam to better ensure that it will last.Quote:
Originally Posted by figure8
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Originally Posted by figure8
Or Isky. The trick is to break the cam in with used and practically worn out springs. I have a Howards in the garage I plan to put in the 350 in a 76 Corvette. If it was running a 4 speed i would not hesitate to put in a 30-30 Isky that was ground in 64 and has been in 3 different engines. It's a solid lifter cam and I think it's too stout for an automatic.
If you decide to roll the dice with the flat tappet stuff, I would recommend that you do some research and use the right oil during that cam break in. Using the cheap oil off the parts store shelf could definitely get you in trouble these days.
I hear you . I have a 30+ year old Crower Monarch .470 lift, 230 duration @.050, 110 LS that I would use in a heartbeat if I didn't have an automatic and turnpike cruiser gearQuote:
Originally Posted by NTFDAY
yes I will use oil with zincQuote:
Originally Posted by Driver50x
Well, you've replied to a post that was last active some 3 years ago.. Don't know what they did in the end.. but I hope and pray they didn't go with anything from that evil empire known as ebay!
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Originally Posted by 34_40
Looks to be a spam artist directing traffic to some german website:mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad:
Not any more :DQuote:
Originally Posted by NTFDAY
Remember, if you see it, report it, so we can remove it.
Bill S.
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Originally Posted by mrmustang
I'd forgotten, thanks for the reminder.
Yes, I know.. I was dangling some bait.Quote:
Originally Posted by NTFDAY