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  1. #1
    hedtrpr is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Please help me understand this....

     



    Hi, Dave here. Got a fully rebuilt SBC 350 in my hot rod.

    -has newish new Edelbrock
    -has newish HEI dist.
    -newish new shorty plugs
    -160lbs every cylinder
    -valves well adjusted
    -adequately timed

    Starts right up but runs poorly, missing on three cylinders: checked with electronic temperature sensor on header tubes.
    Spark seems to be getting to all plugs, pulled and observed for spark.

    WTF is going on? Totally frustrated by this! Where would you guys go next?

    Thanks much for any ideas!!

  2. #2
    NTFDAY's Avatar
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    First thing I'd check is the spark plug wires, Are they Accell as well as the plugs?
    Ken Thomas
    NoT FaDe AwaY and the music didn't die
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  3. #3
    hedtrpr is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Ken, Plugs are ACCEL but the wires are likely not, but fairly new. What cha thinking?

    Dave

  4. #4
    DennyW is online now CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    If you checked the spark on the plug wires, and that is working, I suggest to change spark plugs. AC's always seem to work the best in Chevy motors.

  5. #5
    NTFDAY's Avatar
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    I've never had any luck with anything that has Accell stamped on it. If you have a decent multimeter Check the resistance of each plug wire. Anything over 500 ohms, IMHO, is too much. How old is the module in the distributor? What kind of cap and rotor bug? The module is solid state and normally they either work or don't. The cap and rotor if they are cheap can ark between contacts. I like something with a high dielectric strength.
    Ken Thomas
    NoT FaDe AwaY and the music didn't die
    The simplest road is usually the last one sought
    Wild Willie & AA/FA's The greatest show in drag racing

  6. #6
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    I’m not trying to ask a dumb question, but are you SURE that the plug wires are not crossed?
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    Steve

  7. #7
    hedtrpr is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Driver50x, that was not a dumb question!! That would be something I might do :-/! Given that, I have checked the wires for correct location (but now I will do it again :-) ). Maybe those ACCEL plugs are the problem. I only used them because my damn headers are so close regular plugs would not fit or if they did, the wires were touching the header pipes. The distributor is new though I did get it off eBay. It wasn't the cheapest.... :-0.
    I'll get some shorty plugs from AC or and let you all know what happened.

    Thanks,
    Dave

  8. #8
    DennyW is online now CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Depending on what plugs you have, and what you want to go to, this link to here may help you find what you want.
    Autolite, or NGK is also a good plug.



    https://www.sparkplugs.com/Automotive-l134.aspx
    NTFDAY, rdobbs and t-top havoc like this.

  9. #9
    NTFDAY's Avatar
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    I run E-3's in my 76 Vette and 04 Dakota. In June I drove from Springfield, Mo. to Columbia, SC to attend my grandson's boot camp graduation at Fort Jackson. Round trip is just under 1800 miles and the Dakota averaged a little under 20 mpg which I don't think is too bad.
    Ken Thomas
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  10. #10
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    I tried running the accel plugs back when I had my 72 Camaro and they were garbage. I'd never use them again.
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    Ryan
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  11. #11
    hedtrpr is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Dave here again (thread starter) about the SBC not firing on several cylinders... so as before I have 160+ per cylinder, new HEI, new carb, good wires and now new Autolite plugs. Same problem... not firing on at least one cylinder!! This is crazy. With my temp sensor #8 for example showing like 250 deg where most all others are around 450 pretty soon after startup. Also again, this is a totally rebuild engine with probably 2 hours or less of operation.
    **My carb spacer does not line up the carb and intake manifold all that well. As I recall the vents are kinda offset. Could that effect fuel getting to different cylinders? Or any other ideas??

    Thanks again, Dave

  12. #12
    DennyW is online now CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Yes it could.
    When it's running, spray a little starting fluid at the base of the carb. The low heat says no fuel to create any heat. (Lean). It was 3, and now 1. Getting closer. The plug gap has a lot to do with firing correctly also. And, your sure the valves are adjusted correctly?

  13. #13
    hedtrpr is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Thanks Denny. Plugs were checked and all the same. The valves were adjusted... correctly?, well thats another question :-/, but I believe I got them right this time! Is spraying starter fluid to look for vacuum leaks?

    BTW, should I be getting about the same temp on each of the header tubes? Even #8 for example is sorta hot (250) which may suggest it is firing but poorly... yes?

  14. #14
    DennyW is online now CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Quote Originally Posted by hedtrpr View Post
    Thanks Denny. Plugs were checked and all the same. The valves were adjusted... correctly?, well thats another question :-/, but I believe I got them right this time! Is spraying starter fluid to look for vacuum leaks?


    BTW, should I be getting about the same temp on each of the header tubes? Even #8 for example is sorta hot (250) which may suggest it is firing but poorly... yes?
    ((Yes, and also that cylinder should then fire if it is lack of fuel))

    (Yes, that is correct. The temp should be close to or equal on all 8.

    (Do this simple thing first, before you go deeper into it. If you have a flat cam lobe, the miss will not go away...)
    Last edited by DennyW; 09-18-2018 at 02:52 PM.

  15. #15
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    Hold the rpm at a steady 2.000 rpm with no load if it has a steady pop through the intake it has a flat cam. You can have good compression somtimes with a flat cam. With todays oil flat cams happen on start up vary often. Take a magnet and drain the oil over the magnet if it grows hair the cam is gone.
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