Thread: Cam recommendations?
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08-13-2017 09:39 PM #1
Cam recommendations?
I have a 267 I'm going to build. My plans are a Holley 600cfm 4 barrel carburetor, edelbrock intake, headers, double roller timing chain, comp valve springs, performance distributer, and a mild cam. But I'm stuck on which cam I should go with, I'm looking to spend up to about $180 for a cam and lifter kit. If any of you have links or advice on a cam that would be great and appreciated. Thanks.
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08-14-2017 07:50 AM #2
I've been reading all your posts/threads this morning and haven seen any follow up/ answer BY YOU to any replys------
Oh, well, considering that, I guess maybe the cam shaft answer your looking for would be to make sure that for the double roller timing chain that it have the 3 bolt holes in the front for the gear that your using, and dist/oil pump drive gear at the back--------also, a good idea for issues down stream are make sure it has a fuel pump drive lobe at the front as some cams don't.
On the issues of timing/lift/duration---------that 267 isn't ever going to make any decent power at driven rpms so any of the stock roller lifter cams from middle 80s would most likely be best choice-------
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08-14-2017 02:46 PM #3
I'm sorry, I couldn't figure out how to reply until now. I kept hitting the reply button and was waiting for a box to appear, didn't know I was supposed to type in the box below your post. My bad. But yeah that's what I keep reading-no good power from a 267. Might go ahead with a 350 instead. I've found one for $400, brought the guy down to $250. It's a 1978 I believe. It's completely stock with all the parts from carb to oil pan. Think that would be a good deal? Thanks for your input btw
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08-14-2017 04:46 PM #4
Cam and torque converter should be the last 2 things you buy for a project motor. First, verify what motor you have. There is a suffix number/letters stamped into the block at the very front of the passenger side, very close to the top water pump bolt on the passenger side of the motor. That will tell the application of the motor as it left the factory. The other identification is at the rear of the block, on the driver's side, just forward of the bellhousing flange. This 7 or 8 digit number is raised and cast into the block, rather than stamped like the suffix numbers. If you will give us these numbers/letters, we will find the codes for you and determine that you have a real 350, rather than a 265, 267, or other motor that you don't want.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/a...6&d=1349095194
The other thing is to remove the valve covers and read the casting numbers of the heads in between the valves.
http://cdn.speednik.com/wp-content/b...tingnumber.jpg
.PLANET EARTH, INSANE ASYLUM FOR THE UNIVERSE.
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08-14-2017 06:16 PM #5
I know what engine I have... It's a 1979 267 sbc...
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08-14-2017 06:50 PM #6
among other things, I'd first take a look at the max flow rate of your heads and what scr you have, then decide upon a cam. I agree with Tech, cam should be the last thing you buy unless you've got a blueprint on where you're going.1972 Z28 Camaro, Full Drag Car, 383 CID
1976 Camaro
Currently building a 1.21 Gigawatt Flux Capacitor
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08-15-2017 09:00 AM #7
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08-15-2017 04:08 PM #8
Oh, I see. My bad. But yes I will verify it's a 350 before I purchase it.
Almost looks like a "Before" picture of Randy Ross' F100 that's now sporting IRS, IFS and Coyote Power!! But your cab & bed colors match! ;) Great truck!!
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