I have a 350 sbc in my 1937 Ford pickup. I can just barely see the numbers on the back of the block on the passengers side but can not make it out. Is there any other way to find out the year and other info on this engine?
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I have a 350 sbc in my 1937 Ford pickup. I can just barely see the numbers on the back of the block on the passengers side but can not make it out. Is there any other way to find out the year and other info on this engine?
There are two main identifiers on the blocks for Gen I Chevy motors. One of them I could almost read from your photo if my eyes were better. Just above the passenger side top water pump bolt head, the block is stamped with what is called the suffix number. It is a combination of numbers and letters that tells the production plant, date of manufacture and the application of the motor....
http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/w...partialVIN.jpg
Here's a good source for figuring out suffix codes....
SBC Engine Suffix Codes
The other main identifier is cast into the bellhousing flange of the block on the driver's side just ahead of where the bellhousing would bolt on and looks like this....
http://chevellestuff.net/qd/images/e...2406_block.jpg
The cylinder heads can be identified by removing the valve covers and reading the casting number in between the valves....
http://chevellestuff.net/qd/images/heads/3890462_03.jpg
Here's a good source for figuring out block, crankshaft, exhaust manifold, intake manifold and cylinder head casting numbers.....
Chevy Casting Number identification - Block casting numbers
And another source for blocks and heads....
http://www.mortec.com/castnum.htm
Also, I would STRONGLY suggest that you rid the motor of that rubber fuel line and replace it with a more substantial line BEFORE you have a fire.
And the motor needs more air filter element area so it can breathe properly, a 14" x 4" should be about right.
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Is that a temp sensor in the water pump??????
And I agree with Tech about rubber fuel line------has stainless covered hoses top/bottom of radiator and rubber line for fuel??????????
Thanks for the reply's about the engine I.D. guys. I will look into a stainless steel fuel line and a bigger breather. What OD for the fuel line?
Minimun 3/8 or dash 6 an
Zippi, in the event you or others don't recognize the AN that Jerry noted, it stands for Air Force/Navy and each successive number stands for one sixteenth of an inch. In other words, dash 6 (-6) would stand for 6/16" or 3/8", -8 would stand for 8/16" or 1/2", -12 would stand for 12/16" or 3/4" and so forth.....Quote:
Originally Posted by jerry clayton
This standard was originated for the Air Force and the Navy because they need parts that will not fail. We don't want planes falling out of the sky or ships sinking. Their use has been adapted by the hot rodding community because of their ability to get the job done under extreme conditions. Here is an example of an outlet for AN fittings....
http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/c...e_And_Fittings
Nice photoshop Denny.....:D
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there is one by the thermostat housing as well .. perhaps one for electric fans and one for the gauge ?Quote:
Originally Posted by jerry clayton
Makes sense to me.Quote:
Originally Posted by HOSS429
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Nope-don't make sense at all---the one in the water pump will just be whatever comes out of radiator and not necessary---
Hmmmm, what if the sensor in the water pump switch is set to fire the fan(s) at 150 (190 at the heads)Quote:
Originally Posted by jerry clayton
I don't know Jerry, I'm just tryin' to think out of the box....
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Yup. The one for the electric fans is by the water pump and one for the gauge on the dash is in the intake. It has to reach 180 I believe before the electric fan will come on which is almost never. No PS or PB to add to the load on the engine. Nice cool running engine.
The one by the water pump is completely out of sync with the control of anything---------It would only be useful to determine how effective the radiator was (rad out, engine in) when compared to reading from the one by the thermostat. This can be useful info-----However to use it to control electric fan is total loser
Pretty sure mine has three coolant temp sensors, all "transducers", no "switches". One at the front of a head for dedicated input to the EFI PCM, one on the thermostat neck that's the dedicated input to the SPAL programmable fan controller, and one on the intake that feeds my dash indicator. I set the trigger points on the fans by watching the PCM temp readout, which is hottest, and I know that my dash indicator shows the average coolant temp, about 15F below the head outlet.Quote:
Originally Posted by techinspector1
Zippi, I hope you got your engine ID figured out, since that's the question you brought.
Yeah, I'd like to know too....Quote:
Originally Posted by rspears
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My 37 is currently in to have all the upholstery redone. I'll have to wait to check the numbers when I get it back in late May. To far away to go look. Ok guys I'm listening, where would be the optimal place to put the sender for the dash gage and the electric fan?
well if it aint broke dont fix it ... you ever heard that ?
Yup. I do like the idea of a stainless steel fuel line or maybe a rubber fuel line encapsulated inside a stainless steel braided line .Quote:
Originally Posted by HOSS429
Water temp should be judged at highest temp location, fan control from an same area-----like top of intake and or thermostat housing. That water pump fitting is for an return from heater core hose. The location of a fan sensor in the coolest part of the system will be inaccurate, and any relays/switches that are connected to it will be in reverse pattern to normal system --------
However---------you could make it work if you used some switches/relays set up around ambient air temps to run fans when water was a few degrees above that. It just isn't the most effient/logical way to do it--
zippi, if there was a way to get you to stop thinking about using rubber in the fuel system, I'd be all about it. The other problem with rubber is that the pump fuels we have to run nowadays has ethyl alcohol in it, which will disentegrate rubber on the inside of the hose, permitting these small pieces of rubber shrapnel to enter the fuel pump and carburetor bowl and clog up any damned thing they come in contact with. Stainless braided uses a teflon core.Quote:
Originally Posted by zippi
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All stainless it is. I'll visit my local pep boys and see what they have and what fitting I'll need.Quote:
Originally Posted by techinspector1
Here is a pic off my block in the front. Can't seem to find anything out on the links provided. Looks like VO 15 RG. Need a little help here guys.
Found it
1971, made in Flint MI, 02/15/71, 255 hp,
Yep, TBG is only one model
1971 CK10 and 20 truck with 4bbl carb and turbo 350 tranny LS-9 255 hp