Thread: budget build 350

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Well that budget is gone the new is some what bigger uncle sam desided to take it easy on me this year LOL. Yep I agree but got the procomp heads already I know there not great. Now that I think about it I got all the stuff now except for the cam and rotating assembly and what block work if any which I expect something we need to be done if at lease a good cleaning.

Well that budget is gone, Uncle Sam decided to be nice to me this year LOL. I have all the parts, procomp heads, intake, carb on hand now. most of the stuff I need is rotating assembly and cam but can't buy that until I figure for sure what I'm going to do with the short block and of curse getting everything balance.

sorry be having internet issues didn't think post 16 went up

You can buy a rotating assembly balanced-you'll need a crank for a block with one piece rear seal-plus I'd suggest that you use a roller cam(especially if the block you have is already factory rollers---- Have block cleaned, alighn honed, decked and bored/honed at least 0.020 or 0.030 over with torque plates

Well the 350 I have is a 2 piece main but I got what you mean. On another note I was thinking today and looked a few spec's up and was wondering if I couldn't use a 305 block. Since I have to bore it anyway finding a used 350 block with no wore is impossible just bore it to 350ci spec's and put the 3.75 crank in it. Just to make things clear I hope to build a 377ci with 4 inch bore and 3.75 stroke. Basically a 383ci with a stock 4 in bore.

Your plan is flawed. The 305 has a 3.736" bore and 3.48" stroke. When bored +0.030" and fitted with a 3.750" stroke, it yields 334.17 cubic inches. That's why practically nobody uses the 305 block to begin a project. Of course, if you're between a rock and a hard place, you may find the 334 acceptable. With the proper turbocharger fitted, it would think it was 500 cubic inches.
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Is the block you have a 350???? roller lifters??????A 350 that you already have is more economically bored to 4.030 to clean up bores than buying ANY block no matter what size---------In todays REAL world---if it doesn't have roller lifters--get a used block that does-------then buy a balanced rotating assembly from a respected supplier, a gasket set, oil pump/pan( one piece seal pans are different(I also have a billet adapter from K-Tech(bought all they had) to put a 2 piece seal crank in a one piece block(needs 2 p pan))))

Well think I may have caused some confusion sorry I'll try to clear some things up.

Ok Jerry the running stock 350 I have in the truck now I believe to be a 78 through 81 350 I don't know the exact year. I do believe it to have a 2 piece seal and sure it's not a roller motor. So by your post I'm taking that I should look for a newer 350 to build that is a roller motor.

Ok Techinspector1 I guess my basic question is can a 305 block be bore out to a stock 350 bore safely. It was just a thought and was trying to learn something LOL if I looked at the right spec's on the 305 crank journal size is the same as a 350 crank journal. I was thinking it was another way to build this engine.

Originally Posted by EddieP

My basic question is can a 305 block be bored out to a stock 350 bore safely.

No, not even close.
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Ok tech1 I learned something. I had read that when all the small blocks where casted they had the same sleeve thickness so that put me under the assumption that it would. So now I know they do not. LOL

You might also want to keep your eyes open for a 400 small block------might have everything you need for only a mild rebuild

Originally Posted by EddieP

Ok tech1 I learned something. I had read that when all the small blocks where casted they had the same sleeve thickness so that put me under the assumption that it would. So now I know they do not. LOL

They may have been produced with close to the same cylinder wall thickness, but they were not all produced with the same bore diameter.
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Well not going to find a straight 350 block for a 377ci. So its gonna be a 383ci. I guess there nothing wrong with a few more ci LOL. But ether way ready to get this build going and have on the road in spring.

Thanks for the info and i'll post updates as I go.

Thought I would share this,Chevy SBC 350 - 383ci 2pc RMS Engine Stroker Rotating Assembly Kit | eBay great price but bet quality is crap.

My suggestion is to get an internally balanced assembly for a 2 pc seal and to find a factory roller lifter block-------internal balance won't require a special flywheel or front dampner-----2 pc seal type crank allows you to use the standard bolt pattern flywheel/flexplate---block for factory rollers is all set up for roller lifters but will probably be an one piece seal block and you will need an adapter--- get system with 6 inch rods------

If you find a 4 bolt main block good---if not studs will do or even have 3 center main caps changed to angle side bolts---

Originally Posted by EddieP

Well not going to find a straight 350 block for a 377ci. So its gonna be a 383ci. I guess there nothing wrong with a few more ci LOL. But ether way ready to get this build going and have on the road in spring.

Thanks for the info and i'll post updates as I go.

Thought I would share this,Chevy SBC 350 - 383ci 2pc RMS Engine Stroker Rotating Assembly Kit | eBay great price but bet quality is crap.

Research Pro-Comp, I think you'll decide to use Scat.

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