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  • 1 Post By techinspector1
  • 2 Post By Stu Cool

Thread: LS Swap Info
          
   
   

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  1. #1
    HotRodN is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    LS Swap Info

     



    Hey all,,, I'm going to install a 5.7 LS and 4L60E in my 32 Coupe and havae several questions about getting this going. Currently I need info on getting the ECU information on pin outs and the like. There are lots of guy's on CL that will do a harness for a pretty price and being a little bit of a DYI guy I'm really interested in making my own. I've watched several YouTube videos and it doesn't seem to need a PHD to get it done. Was able to get a whole donor car so everything is there to pull that I could need. It ran fine when we fired it up. It was wrecked on the left front and right rear. The axle broke and he went for a ride to the guard rails on the freeway.

    I plan on mounting the ECU behind the seat using the interior frame and running the wiring under the carpet (protected) up to the firewall then use cannon plugs to pass through the firewall and attach on the other side for running to the individual components. I'm aware doing it this way will require the wires to be spliced and made longer. I'm not sure if that will affect the way the computer reads signals.

    So here come the needs.

    Where can I find a wiring schematic for a 2002 Camaro Z28, mainly the ECU and trans harness?

    Can anyone point me to online links that show how and what circuit wiring to remove that will not be needed?

    Is there a good information source that can be found for doing just this kind of thing?

    All input is greatly appreciated,
    Back to ya'll.
    HotRodN

  2. #2
    jerry clayton's Avatar
    jerry clayton is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    To begin with-do yourself a BIGGGGGGG Favor and mount the ecu where ever the oem harness will reach-splicing wires over 100 times is going to be a big mess----If you want to fab a new harness from ecm pin all the way to the component to eliminate splices is a little different-------

    I try to mount the OEM type just inside the body forward/low right side -----sometimes under heat/ac, sometimes side kick panel.

    But general rule on GM wiring---black wires are grounds, some can be combined, some eliminated

    Red and pink are hot or switched 12v --------

    Some where there is a method of buying a single vehicle maintenance site like All -Data, etc

    https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...21421273,d.dmo
    Last edited by jerry clayton; 05-07-2016 at 12:32 PM.

  3. #3
    firebird77clone's Avatar
    firebird77clone is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    My .02 would be to bring the wires in at the box.

    Run 'em along the frame instead of under the carpet.

    A few extra feet of wire can degrade digital signal. Properly soldered splices and equivalent grade / type of wire will minimize signal degradation. Any shielded wires must be "stretched" using shielded wire, with shields terminated intact on both ends. Twisted pairs must be replaced as twisted pair.

    I don't know how much of that applies to your specific wire harness, but it is some good general guidelines when working on most electrical/electronic system.
    Last edited by firebird77clone; 05-07-2016 at 02:37 PM.
    .
    Education is expensive. Keep that in mind, and you'll never be terribly upset when a project goes awry.
    EG

  4. #4
    prpmmp's Avatar
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    LT1 Swap Pete

  5. #5
    rspears's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by prpmmp View Post
    Brendan at LT1 Swap in West Plains, MO is very well known, and well respected in the LT1 arena. You'll be time and money ahead talking to him, IMO.
    Roger
    Enjoy the little things in life, and you may look back one day and realize that they were really the BIG things.

  6. #6
    techinspector1's Avatar
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    jerry clayton likes this.
    PLANET EARTH, INSANE ASYLUM FOR THE UNIVERSE.

  7. #7
    HotRodN is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    I've sent an email off to Brendan but haven't heard back.

  8. #8
    HotRodN is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    I try to mount the OEM type just inside the body forward/low right side -----sometimes under heat/ac, sometimes side kick panel
    .

    Do you have any pix with the ECU mounted this way? I held the ECU up by hand and it would not fit behind the dash. Didn't' think about mounting on the side panel. The plan is to run AC and heat so the area behind the dash on passenger side will be full of that component.

  9. #9
    prpmmp's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by HotRodN View Post
    I've sent an email off to Brendan but haven't heard back.
    Go to his site. LT1 Swap scroll to the top and hit wiring harness infro,scroll down to step by step harness, read and read and read!! He has everything there to do the swap!! Then he can do your computer for stand alone!! I just finish my harness from his step by step directions(he even gives the parts # needed!! Again read everything on his site!! Excellent information!!! http://www.lt1swap.com/2000harness.htm https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?...5211824&type=3 Pete
    Last edited by prpmmp; 05-08-2016 at 06:12 AM.

  10. #10
    daveS53 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    I have a 2013 LS3 connect and cruise package in my car. I put the ECM on the trans tunnel, only a few inches from the firewall. A console covers it up.

    I cut two 1-1/2" holes in the firewall, near the intersection of the head and intake manifold. Anything smaller and I couldn't get the largest of the plugs, plus the flex conduit through the hole. I would not try using any type of plug to feed that many wires through the firewall - mine about has 20 plugs and around 80 wires that go through it.

    The only big problem I had was ignoring GM's very specific instructions for mounting the MAF sensor in the air intake snorkel. My first attempt at a snorkel looked great, but the engine would not run properly with it. The sensor that I have is supposed to be mounted in the middle of a minimum 6" long length of straight pipe and also be at least 10 inches from the throttle body. That's tough to do on an old car, with limited space. The MAF from 2002 is different and would have different mounting requirements. Absolutely do not put the air filter in the path of air being blown from the radiator fan.

    It's better to avoid running wires along the frame, if possible. My wires are all run either through the rocker panel area or along the trans tunnel. No wires are mounted to my frame. I did run headlight wires inside the frame.

    As others have noted, the computer will need to be reprogrammed, since there are many inputs that will be eliminated, to create an engine-only wiring harness.
    Last edited by daveS53; 05-08-2016 at 12:51 PM.

  11. #11
    jerry clayton's Avatar
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    Yep Dave--I remember the discussion about the maf sensor------

  12. #12
    Stu Cool's Avatar
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    Not intending to send you away from Club Hot Rod, I would recommend you visit the LS1Tech.com Conversions and Hybrids Forum. I did my LS1 Swap into my Studebaker 10 years ago and the folks there were extremely helpful. Much has happened since then to make these installations easier and the folks there are on top of it. They have a number of "Stickys" at the top of the forum with a wealth of information. Read read read.

    Conversions & Hybrids - LS1TECH
    NTFDAY and rspears like this.
    Of course, that's just my opinion, I could be wrong!

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