Gen I (1969) SBC 350 NEED HELP, TICKING SOUND

I'll give you another tip or two as I feel its a help to others incase they have similar issues----
While the pan is off-check and or replace all the rod/main bearings-chev are cheap$----
look up at the camshaft lobes with a flash light and see if they are worn excessible across the lobe nose AND ALSO ON THE BASE CIRCLE-the base circle should only be shiny/worn along one edge ( back edge-this is used to keep cam at rear point for timing and oil pump drive with flat tappets)

On the issue of push rods spinning------its more a deal of seeing if some aren't spinning freely or at all as they rotate, stop, rotate, stop---

fuel pump push rod is at front so shouldn't be it as you said sound is at rear
You can unbolt the fuel pump with just two bolts and run engine on whats in carb to see if it helps


wrist pins are interferance fit to rods and aren't usually a problem

cast piston thrust skirt could be cracked and will make noise at cold idle

you can isolate which cylinder by killing(shorting ) out the spark and bad one will quiet down----

If you got the pan off--pull it the rest of the way apart and change bearings, rings, cam/lifters

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Originally Posted by cgw3

Also considered fuel pump pushrod tapping? Have you guys seen this alot?

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Your fuel pump is spring loaded against the pushrod, it's up front and your hearing it in back so I wouldn't think this is much of a possibility.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by cgw3

The previous distributor was also a HEI, but cap broke and rotor damaged so I wont be able to put that one on to see? But the new one could be damaged and im going to pull and check. I dropped the pan this morning, and no metal in pan, so that makes me feel a little better. Just to cancel out distributor -shaft to pump and pump itself (is the only area I can really narrow down the sound) im going to pull pump and distributor and check those and the little keyway /pins. If theu look good ill probably move to the adjustment process with valves.

On these older 350s, could there be some play/to much clearance in the wrist pins and may them slap a little when cold and before it warms up?

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When you put the new distributor in did you verify the depth of fit? Since the SBC distributor sits on the intake any machining of deck, heads, etc affects the dimension of the intake mating surface to the oil pump, and you can have the distributor shaft bottoming out on the pump which means the gears don't engage fully and cause premature wear. The fix is easy, using nylon or metal shim washers on the distributor base to ensure a few thousandths of play when the distributor case is firmly against the intake.

Valve adjustment is an easy process. Lots of explanations out there, but I like this one - Engine Valve Adjustment Procedure - The Right Way

Are you saying that your ticking noise is only when the engine is cold, and that it goes away when the engine warms up? If so my first guess is a lifter that's leaking down a bit when cold, but seals up fine when warm and I'd drive it.

Read this when you have time California Chargers: The Keeling & Clayton story My guess is Jerry probably has messed with a few motors maybe? Just guessin'

Thanks Matt-------been some talk this past week about the Tanya Hawaian girl-I was cropped from that pic but she was something else-----What a honor it was to win that race plus have been chosen as "Best Appearing Car"