Welcome to Club Hot Rod!  The premier site for everything to do with Hot Rod, Customs, Low Riders, Rat Rods, and more. 

  •  » Members from all over the US and the world!
  •  » Help from all over the world for your questions
  •  » Build logs for you and all members
  •  » Blogs
  •  » Image Gallery
  •  » Many thousands of members and hundreds of thousands of posts! 

YES! I want to register an account for free right now!  p.s.: For registered members this ad will NOT show

 
Like Tree9Likes
  • 2 Post By techinspector1
  • 3 Post By rspears
  • 2 Post By 36 sedan
  • 1 Post By rspears
  • 1 Post By techinspector1

Thread: 20 year old rebuild
          
   
   

Results 1 to 11 of 11

Threaded View

  1. #2
    techinspector1's Avatar
    techinspector1 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Location
    Zephyrhills, Florida, USA
    Car Year, Make, Model: '32 Henway
    Posts
    12,423

    Hmmm, without a total teardown? Well, I wouldn't attempt to start any 20 year old rebuilt motor without pulling the cam and lifters to massage an extreme pressure lubricant into them with my fingers and thumbs in much the same manner that you would rub a charlie horse in your leg. Any lube that was applied to them at rebuild has long since turned to cardboard and the cam and lifters will have little chance of surviving break-in without a dose of Extreme Pressure lubricant such as Isky RL-1 Molybdenum Disulphide....
    Isky RevLube RL-1 - Free Shipping on Orders Over $99 at Summit Racing

    Use solvent and then soap and water to clean the lifter crowns and the cam lobes, then massage the MD into them. MD actually bonds with the cam material to prevent scuffing on start-up. Avoid getting water inside the lifter.

    Before firing the motor, add one bottle of Isky ZDDP to the oil, then add one bottle with each oil change after that. Extreme Pressure lubes have been removed from off-the-shelf motor oils and the only way to make a flat tappet cam live is to add ZDDP to off-the-shelf oil or use an oil that is dedicated to protecting flat tappet cams and has phosphorus and zinc in it, such as Brad Penn Racing Oil.....
    http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/1618198...chn=ps&lpid=82

    Use only STOCK, LOW-PRESSURE GM valve springs for break-in. If you're going to use hot rod springs, remove them from the heads, exchange them for stock springs, break-in the cam and then replace the stock springs with your hot rod springs.

    Pre-lube the motor by inserting this Proform tool into the distributor's hole and turning the oil pump with your 3/8" drill motor. It will take only a few seconds for the oil galley to become pressurized and the drill motor to rev down and begin laboring. Don't run the drill motor past that point or you'll burn it up. All you want to do is fill the galley with oil. The mechanism at the bottom of the tool is to complete the oil galley under the distributor hole (like the distributor housing does) so that you will get oil to both banks of the motor.
    Proform Oil Pump Primers 66896 - Free Shipping on Orders Over $99 at Summit Racing

    There is lots more to making a flat tappet cam live, so you will want to read through this tutorial that I wrote for the Crankshaft Coalition.....
    http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/w...ips_and_tricks

    .
    Last edited by techinspector1; 12-12-2015 at 06:07 PM.
    NTFDAY and Henry Rifle like this.
    PLANET EARTH, INSANE ASYLUM FOR THE UNIVERSE.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
Links monetized by VigLink