Thread: been wondering about my engine. need some advice

Tweet

I have been building the car of mine for what seem like forever. I'll get the the point. I decoded my SBC the other day and it wasn't good. As it turns out not all 350's are the same. Seems I have a 1974 350 with 333882 heads auto and a 2 brl carb it produces a freakishly low 145 hourespower Stock. I did rebuild it several years ago to drop into my 40 but I sold that car and kept the engine for my 34 build. I'm not sure what size bump stick is in it. I remember telling the guy at the counter to order me one a couple notches above stock. I moved twice since then and lost the card telling me what it is. I did also upgrade to .030 over pistons, block hugger headers and an edelbrock duel carb setup (duel 500 cfm). I'd hate to rip it all apart again but I wouldn't be apposed to dropping some 041 or 186 heads on it if I thought it would be worth it. AS it stands now I think I'm over carberated. Any advice? I don't want a fire breathing monster or anything like that 300-325 ish??? would work for me.

Bump Anyone?

882 heads are prone to crack

All hores power ratings in the 70s were way low as gov changed specs on how they were done and hp numbers were then net vs gross--

Your early engine has 2 issues that make it a pending disaster-flat tappets and iron heads with todays un leaded fuel------

Change your setup to a later model roller cam block and put some alum heads on it with hardened seats-----------it'll cost a fortune to reguide /seat your iron heads and they are worthless unless you are dealing with a numbers correct restoration---------

I'd say you are probably way over carbed, but then it also depends on your linkages. The roller cam issue can be sidestepped by using zinc additive or zinc formulated oil. Other than the flat tappet cam issue, your greatest concern for the block should be if the rear main is two or four bolt.

I'm running the Edlebrock two fours on my mouse and it runs great. There were a few tuning issues, but other than that no problems. The Edlebrock carbs are vacuum secondaries which see a little more forgiving for cfm sizing. The thunder series have adjustable secondaries which allows you to adjust them to the motor's needs. Once adjusted you'll love them, and nothing else sounds like two fours when they open.
The only problem I had was getting an air cleaner large enough to flow the air. To get the look and flow I wanted I had to combine two air cleaners together. With progressive linkage it's still reasonable gas mileage, unless I have my foot in it.

Just remember that air intakes of any type(even fighter jets) are only BIG enought at MAX speed-anything running slower needs more air to run faster-

Originally Posted by BIG-JIM

I have been building the car of mine for what seem like forever. I'll get the the point. I decoded my SBC the other day and it wasn't good. As it turns out not all 350's are the same. Seems I have a 1974 350 with 333882 heads auto and a 2 brl carb it produces a freakishly low 145 hourespower Stock. I did rebuild it several years ago to drop into my 40 but I sold that car and kept the engine for my 34 build. I'm not sure what size bump stick is in it. I remember telling the guy at the counter to order me one a couple notches above stock. I moved twice since then and lost the card telling me what it is. I did also upgrade to .030 over pistons, block hugger headers and an edelbrock duel carb setup (duel 500 cfm). I'd hate to rip it all apart again but I wouldn't be apposed to dropping some 041 or 186 heads on it if I thought it would be worth it. AS it stands now I think I'm over carberated. Any advice? I don't want a fire breathing monster or anything like that 300-325 ish??? would work for me.

Hello Jim, let me see if I can help you put a plan together. An inventory of the parts you have on hand leaves me dubious as to whether or not you have the basis for a good engine build. The block is a flat tappet, 2-piece rear main seal unit that has little or no value on the open market. The heads are cast iron 76cc chamber smogger units, again, best used as a doorstop. The cam is unknown and it's compatibility with an unknown static compression ratio leaves us in question. The block hugger headers are only a little better than a common cast iron stock exhaust manifold. Anyone expecting a power increase from headers would do well to read up about long-tube headers. Do we know anything about the pistons? Cast, cast hypereutectic or forged? What is the compression distance (centerline of the wrist pin to the piston deck ?) (1.560" on a quality piston) What is the crown volume? Eyebrows, dish, pop-up? What is the piston deck height (distance from the piston deck to the block deck with the piston at top dead center) ?

There is nothing wrong with running 2 500's on the street, but you have painted yourself into a corner with the intake manifold. It will only fit 1955 to 1986 Gen I heads, eliminating using a Vortec head or moving on to a Gen 2 or 3 motor. But actually, at this point, I might cut my losses and find a good-running LS1 motor, using the EFI with an aftermarket wiring harness. Here's an example....
01 02 03 Chevrolet Corvette Engine 5 7L LS1 Autogator Warranty | eBay

A good set of aluminum heads for the Gen I motor will cost about $1100 out of the box, ready to bolt on and run. (Pro-Filer 23 degree, 185cc intake runner heads), plus all the other work and money it would take to make a nice running 350 that would produce the 300 to 325 horsepower you're looking for. Early production fuelie heads will make that power easily, but you'll have more money in them, getting them to the point that they will operate the way you want them to, than you might have in a brand new set of aluminum heads that will surpass those hp figures easily. Early camel-hump production heads, such as 3782461....64-66...327 will have no accessory holes drilled and tapped on the front face for accessories, so you would have to rig up something off the exhaust bolt holes to hold the alternator and any other accessories on the motor.

There is nothing wrong with running 2 500's on the street, but you have painted yourself into a corner with the intake manifold. It will only fit 1955 to 1986 Gen I heads, eliminating using a Vortec head or moving on to a Gen 2 or 3 motor. But actually, at this point, I might cut my losses and find a good-running LS1 motor, using the EFI with an aftermarket wiring harness. Here's an example....
http://www.ebay.com/itm/01-02-03-CHE...-/121745268928

If you want to hang with the Gen I motor, while you're finding answers to the questions I asked, please do a little reading for us.....

http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/w..._compatibility

http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/w...ips_and_tricks

http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/w...op_dead_center

http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/w...ck_deck_height

.

Originally Posted by techinspector1

Do we know anything about the pistons? Cast, cast hypereutectic or forged? Yes forgedWhat is the compression distance (centerline of the wrist pin to the piston deck ?) (1.560" on a quality piston) What is the crown volume? Eyebrows, dish, pop-up? What is the piston deck height (distance from the piston deck to the block deck with the piston at top dead center) ? <---all of this I have no idea sorry

There is nothing wrong with running 2 500's on the street, but you have painted yourself into a corner with the intake manifold. It will only fit 1955 to 1986 Gen I heads, eliminating using a Vortec head or moving on to a Gen 2 or 3 motor. But actually, at this point, I might cut my losses and find a good-running LS1 motor, using the EFI with an aftermarket wiring harness. Yeah that's not gonna happenHere's an example....
01 02 03 Chevrolet Corvette Engine 5 7L LS1 Autogator Warranty | eBay

A good set of aluminum heads for the Gen I motor will cost about $1100 out of the box, ready to bolt on and run. (Pro-Filer 23 degree, 185cc intake runner heads), plus all the other work and money it would take to make a nice running 350 that would produce the 300 to 325 horsepower you're looking for. Early production fuelie heads will make that power easily, but you'll have more money in them, getting them to the point that they will operate the way you want them to, than you might have in a brand new set of aluminum heads that will surpass those hp figures easily. Early camel-hump production heads, such as 3782461....64-66...327 will have no accessory holes drilled and tapped on the front face for accessories, so you would have to rig up something off the exhaust bolt holes to hold the alternator and any other accessories on the motor. That's okay I have only an alternator and that is down low so no need for holes tapped in the head
If you want to hang with the Gen I motor, while you're finding answers to the questions I asked, please do a little reading for us.....

http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/w..._compatibility

http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/w...ips_and_tricks

http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/w...op_dead_center

http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/w...ck_deck_height

.

Thanks for the info Techinspector1 (and everyone else). I suppose I should at least show you the engine in question. Its going into a 34 ford semi traditional hot rod so any type of LS EFI anything is out. I suppose I give it a go and see what she does at this point and if push comes to shove I will swap out the heads. Also I am using the zinc additive.