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07-17-2015 09:59 AM #1
Jake-some questions so we can determine the seating around the table------
You said 400sbc bored----------how was the finish sizing done? What type hone and how many different grits to reach final size/ finish?
Does any of the steam holes or bolts holes showing cracking towards the cylinder??
What was the ring end gap of the top and second rings?
What type rings did you use---moly?,chrome?etc
Did any of the pistons rock/swivel hard on the rod??(tight wrist pin?)
How hard is it to remove that head from motor installed in truck?
Did you torque head bolts and to what number ?
Can you get the pan off in the truck? Not 4 x 4?
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07-17-2015 10:52 AM #2
Gotta catch up again....
when you glazed do you mean the oil was too thin and disrupts the break in process?
I assembled the engine myself
The motor was already bored over when i bought it. I took it to the machine shop to have it all inspected before assembly. Block, crank, heads. The machinist did my cam bearings, my valve seats and checked the bores and crank for any disformities or damage. Everything checked out ok. At least as ok as i trust the machinist.
As far as sizing/honing i couldnt tell you as i left that all t him.
Since installing the heads i havent looked at them but again, they checked out at the shop
The rings are sealed power moly rings
The pistons and rods fit very tight, no sway or anything from my knowledge
The heads arent too hard to remove. Just have to remove the pulleys and intake/distibutor. Ive got tons of room under the hood it is quite nice
The heads were torqued to 65 ft lbs and i went over them 2 or three times to ensure they didnt loosen at all
Oil pan isnt too bad to remove. Its not a 4x4, just usual frustrations because it sits over the crossmember





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