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Thread: 350 Won't Start After Degreasing
          
   
   

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  1. #1
    renegade350 is offline CHR Junior sMember Visit my Photo Gallery
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    350 Won't Start After Degreasing

     



    Hey all,

    New to the group, and to the Chevy 350.

    I am restoring a 1980 Jeep CJ7 that has a '70s 350 with Edelbrock carb.
    The engine has been neglected but was running fine until yesterday. I protected the electricals and carb and used Purple Power to degrease a decade of grime. It started and drove fie after rinsing. Later, I removed the air cleaner and used a rag to clean some areas around the carb. After getting it back together, it will crank, but will no longer start...

    -gas squirts into the carb when the throttle is pressed
    -the choke seems to be adjusted correctly
    -i pulled the distributor cap off, but nothing seems to be damaged/ cracked
    -I can't find any bad/ corroded connections

    Any other ideas?? My knowledge is limited, and I'm frustrated!
    Thanks!

  2. #2
    rdobbs is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Sounds like you have a firing problem. Check all plug wires and dist
    cap. Clean well and make sure they are all dry.

  3. #3
    renegade350 is offline CHR Junior sMember Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Thanks for the advice rdobbs. After cleaning, I still don't think I'm getting a spark. The wires seem OK, but there are some burned terminals and a small crack where the coil screws into the distro cap. I think I'll replace it, and see what sparks up. =)

  4. #4
    Henry Rifle's Avatar
    Henry Rifle is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Got a hair dryer? Blow everything dry - spark plug boots, spark plugs, distributor cap.
    Jack

    Gone to Texas

  5. #5
    HOSS429's Avatar
    HOSS429 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    pull the dizzy cap and dry it out ..
    iv`e used up all my sick days at work .. can i call in dead ?

  6. #6
    shine's Avatar
    shine is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    my bet is on hoss. condensation under the cap .

  7. #7
    rspears's Avatar
    rspears is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
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    I agree with moisture in the cap, but with a crack and burned terminals I'd change the cap, and probably the coil, too.
    Roger
    Enjoy the little things in life, and you may look back one day and realize that they were really the BIG things.

  8. #8
    firebird77clone's Avatar
    firebird77clone is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    My favorite way to confirm spark is to unplug #1 plug, insert an old plug, and lay it down where it will ground, and I can look for spark while I crank.
    .
    Education is expensive. Keep that in mind, and you'll never be terribly upset when a project goes awry.
    EG

  9. #9
    Rrumbler is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Check the points and condenser, and under the advance plate where they mount, and if there is a bell shaped shield over the points, look inside it, too. If there is a shield, any water that gets under the advance plate will condense there when the engine warms up, drip on the points and condenser, and get slung around by the cam, shorting them out, but it may not condense or be evident in the cap or rotor. Voice of exasperated experience.

    .
    Rrumbler, Aka: Hey you, "Old School", Hairy, and other unsavory monickers.

    Twistin' and bangin' on stuff for about sixty or so years; beat up and busted, but not entirely dead - yet.

  10. #10
    Matthyj's Avatar
    Matthyj is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    I use to drive around with a can of WD-40 and had to spray the distributor everytime it rained, displaces the moisture and doesn't conduct electricity, something with a Small Block and a points ignition I just got use to until I later switched to a HEI after they where widely available had to do it even with all new cap, rotor etc, one of the things we forgot about like vapor lock & choking the carb.........
    Why is mine so big and yours so small, Chrysler FirePower

  11. #11
    shine's Avatar
    shine is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    a louvered hood will teach you quick. wd40 is a required tool in the trunk .
    Henry Rifle and jerry clayton like this.

  12. #12
    jerry clayton's Avatar
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    Write a song about this---


    A louvered hood will teach you quick---


    WD40 in the trunk is a trick

  13. #13
    NTFDAY's Avatar
    NTFDAY is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    WD 40, duct tape, and bailing wire and you have all bases covered.
    techinspector1 likes this.
    Ken Thomas
    NoT FaDe AwaY and the music didn't die
    The simplest road is usually the last one sought
    Wild Willie & AA/FA's The greatest show in drag racing

  14. #14
    jerry clayton's Avatar
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    used bailing wire for lots of stuff back then WD40 and duck tape are modern


    and match book covers for point gap after burnishing them with the striking strip

  15. #15
    firebird77clone's Avatar
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    I didn't know about the striking strip. Cool tip
    .
    Education is expensive. Keep that in mind, and you'll never be terribly upset when a project goes awry.
    EG

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