Thread: Question about 400sbc and cam clearance

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Right on. Thats exactly yum what i was looking for. Another guy here said not to shave the rods and i should get different rods or a small base circle cam. But i dont want to spends $4-500 for new rods or a cam when i already have the parts. Now would you suggest different rod bolts for extra clearance and strength since i will be shaving them?

Thanks again. Very helpful.

Originally Posted by donmcgowen

Another guy here said not to shave the rods and i should get different rods or a small base circle cam. .

Some people build, some people read and copy/paste.

Originally Posted by camaro_fever68

Some people build, some people read and copy/paste.

Serioiusly? What does this add to this thread? Nothing, IMO.

Originally Posted by camaro_fever68

Some people build, some people read and copy/paste.

And another 40 year old expert is heard from.

Here are the stats. I'm looking for 450whp and low 12's or high 11's at the track

1968 Camaro

Motor:
406
cast crank
5.7" rods w/ ARP bolts
Crane 252@ .590/600"
Not sure about the heads yet
Victor Jr. intake
750DP Demon carb
Hooker 1 3/4" headers
Turbo 350 w/ B&M 3500 stall
4.11 rear

Help identify these heads. I thought they were old Dart II iron heads but I am not sure. Can I build with them or are they garbage? If so, I will have them ported and flow tested. Here are the stats of the heads.
2.02/1.6"
64cc
1.5" dual springs with damp
valve guids
1.5 roller rockers


If anyone can tell me what kind of heads these are I would greatly appreciate it. Not sure if they will work with this motor or if I need to upgrade.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/vv9pgg9cm3...51331.jpg?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/r5pvplsd4a...51431.jpg?dl=0

Originally Posted by camaro_fever68

Some people build, some people read and copy/paste.

Ray, I won't get my shorts all bunched up over your comment, because I was likely building motors while you were still crappin' green. You have to understand that it is encumbent upon the writer to protect the OP (original poster) from doing something that may result in disaster. You might grind on 99 sets of rods and be OK, but the 100th set will unwind due to an occlusion in the metal or some other reason and the OP has suffered a multi-thousand dollar loss. I will always err on the side of caution, I'm sorry you don't see it the same way. A reduced base circle cam is a no-cost option when ordering the new cam and the 25700P rods are a ~$270 cost option. Now, if the OP has already reached out into thin air and chosen a cam, that's not my fault. The cam should be the next to last thing chosen for a build, right before the torque converter.

.

Thanks for all the replies, I really take everything you guys say seriously. However, let's just say I'm stuck with these iron heads. Let's say I will buy a different cam for this motor. Based on these heads and mostly stock internals, which cam would you recommend. Again, I originally bought the big roller cam 16 years ago when I was 20. Now I am trying to figure out the proper way to do it. I know everyone advises forged internals and aluminum heads, but I have seen and head of plenty of people getting 450hp out of a motor with a stock bottom end and iron heads.

Does anyone have a guess as to what these heads are? I know that aluminum heads are the way, but I have what I have. And I know that iron heads can still make plenty of power. Maybe not 500hp, but at least 420 or so. And that would be fine for me.

Techinspector, what cam would you recommend using the 400 small block with these iron heads. Do they they make all cams with the smaller base circle or is this a custom cam that is needed?
I'm thinking something like the Comp Cams Magnum 280. I do have a 3500 stall converter and 4.11 gears.

Originally Posted by techinspector1

Ray, I won't get my shorts all bunched up over your comment, because I was likely building motors while you were still crappin' green. You have to understand that it is encumbent upon the writer to protect the OP (original poster) from doing something that may result in disaster. You might grind on 99 sets of rods and be OK, but the 100th set will unwind due to an occlusion in the metal or some other reason and the OP has suffered a multi-thousand dollar loss. I will always err on the side of caution, I'm sorry you don't see it the same way. A reduced base circle cam is a no-cost option when ordering the new cam and the 25700P rods are a ~$270 cost option. Now, if the OP has already reached out into thin air and chosen a cam, that's not my fault. The cam should be the next to last thing chosen for a build, right before the torque converter.

.

I didn't even read your post before. I didn't mean my post toward you personally. It doesn't matter. Sorry to have offended you.

I'm no expert but I build 383, 421, and 434 stokers on a daily basis. Grinding the rods is as common as grinding the block. If you don't want that to be an issue, I can do the stroker kit in a raised cam block. Even though the pan rails are widened in that block I may still have to a little grinding for rod to block clearance in some cases.

I learn everyday. When I quit learning I will proclaim to be an expert.

Duece. This is a 4 bolt block. I guess you would call this a low budget build. I have all the parts to build the motor just had an issue with cam and head combo because I cannot identify what kind of heads they are. I know they are crap compared to aluminum heads but they are what i have right now. If i van figure out what heads these are i can get a cam to match.

I have no problem asking questions. Thats why im here. When i was younger i made vad choices hence the poor slselection with the original cam. But i think if i get a decent valve job, match a good cam, 1 3/4 headers, single plane intake and 750DP I can make a solid 420hp. Then over the courecourse of the next several years I can start upgrading and get a set of nice heads.